Coldfinger

Maybe you should hit up Marmot Prince for some "pharmaceutics", er sleeping pills? Relax, just think nice thoughts of all your LDS neighbors in Boise, they are nice people and I'm sure that makes them happy. Romney will HAVE TO pick some nut job Jeebus veep, safe to say we've seen the last of Darth C.

Sorry Dane, it's just such a great picture, one of your finest, couldn't resist.

So is that what you did on a date?

Hey sorry, I must have forgot the part about giving her a chalk bag with a stuffed animal nestled in it........

Good advice if she's a high maintenance princess. We live in the 21st century, enough of the turning your man into a servant boy baloney. The opposite of this--the man is the king of the castle--has long been discarded as chauvinism, you know have the house clean, the beer cold, the dinner hot, and the bed hotter, all served demurely with a smile. How about BOTH of you share the work and the fun, after all the fun part of climbing is a strong partnership.

BW testing (http://outdoorlink.org/ol/files/trdocs/research-papers/Knot-and-cord-strength.pdf) The tensile strength of BW 7mm static cord is 2,600lbf. Loop strength on carabiner diameter test pins was 4,200lbf or about 80% of double strength. It was virtually the same percentage in BW 8mm static cord. Cords were tied with double fisherman knots and failure mode was the cord broke at the test pins. In 5.5 spectra we observed loop strength of 3,900lbf or 60% of double tensile. Failure mode with a triple fisherman knot was breakage at the test pin but with a double fisherman (not recommended to make loops in 5.5 Spectra) the failure mode was at the knot and at a slightly lower value. This was different than expected and it would be interesting to see if other high strength cords behaved similarly in single loop testing. Spectra seems to be much more affected than larger cord by the small radius of a carabiner.

!

You remember to factor the knot into the breaking strength?

No the dyneema is tough, there is NOT a lot of material, THAT is the difference durability wise, and why some posted here they like 10mm or 13mm slings or supertape. Lots of grit in the desert, as layton posted, and that gets into textiles like rope and webbing and speed wear.

Hey Dane, aren't those your nuthuggers???????

Expensive watches, bling bang! You're dating yourself, think that whole oysters on a date thing is so 80's. Lame! Dirtbag alpinist chicks like sardines btw.

Oh snap! Just hit 1,001 posts.

Yeah Dane I've got to give you credit, you've positioned yourself well, all those rich ladies from Aspen needing advice on $600 boots. And you're right about watches!

Ditto for brother. My experience on trips with hotties (at least the ones I wasn't dating pretrip) is you get to spend SO much time listening to how great their current bf is. That and they are free to use "the look" to win any debate. Screw that!

Whatever you're taking now seems to be affecting your diction. But on the bright side you're making the usual amount of sense.

Fucking Chuck Norris!

Be consistent!

That (exotic vacation) used to be a euphemism for jail?

for putting fortune cookies in their "Linsanity" frozen yogurt. I'm not sure which is funnier: The apology? or Fortune cookies in frozen yogurt (sounds worse than Miracle Noodles)?

I have a mix of Mammut Contact slings (22kn) and 6 and 7mm cord. The biggest question is: do you want to be able to untie the loop? Think of it this way, there are runners (ie. used where one just needs a longer QD) and there are slings (i.e. used for all sorts of anchor making). I like the Dyneema for runners, seems to be the best application for that textile. A big negative of dyneema is its handling characteristics. The only safe and sure way to make a dyneema sling is bartacking and it is NOT recommended to girth hitch these to each other to make a longer sling. Mammut flatly states that the only safe way to join these is with a biner, so you lose the weight advantage when you link two of these with biners. It does not like knots either, BTW from both a strength and ease of untying once loaded view. So unlike knotted supertape, you can't untie for threads, trees, greater length etc. Then there's the issue of using it as a personal link to an anchor. The big plus with Dyneema is the water and cut resistance, weight, bulk and strength. As for cord/slings, I like BW 6mm (8.4kn) for v-threads and rapping, but don't like using that for anything else due to it's low breaking strength and cut resistance due to its diameter. 6mm just doesn't seem to have much margin for strength loss due to knotting (~20%), aging, wear and/or abrasion/cutting from rough or sharp rock. I just don't get why folks would use 5 or 6mm cord for anything other than rapping. If somebody used that to join their harness to the climbing rope you'd think they were nuts, so how is it that folks use that stuff anywhere else in the system and it's ok? I have what would be a triple shoulder sling (180cm) length of the Sterling 7mm Dry cord, that I REALLY like for anchor building. It's advantages are robust strength (12.4 kn) and that I can untie it if i need a really long piece (about 300cm?) for getting around a tree or whatnot. As I stated in another thread, I think the longer cord runners have so many other (prussik, texas prussik, etrier, etc.) uses that they are ideal for alpine and multipitch applications. I looked into the 5mm Technora stuff and while it has a very high single strand strength, after doing a little digging I found that when knotted it loses almost half of it's strength as it tends to want to cut itself much like it's sister textile the Dyneema sling. (And is thus not practically much stronger than the 6mm and especially 7mm stuff.) Where I have seen the 5mm technora used wisely (imho) is as a rap/pulcord where it retains it's full 20kn strength. Given the cost, I chose to pass. With all the bolting that goes on now, I don't ever need huge amounts of webbing to rig TR's or anchors much at all, unlike 20 years ago, but that would vary greatly by crag. I've used the standard webbing to pull trucks out of ditches, dragging deer out of the woods, dog leashes and not much more over the last 20 years. That being said I have a bit of supertape that I'd bring for longer trad routes (but not alpine where the 6mm comes along). Hope that helps Gene!

Arrrr!!!!

PS Just noticed something funny about Blake's review: He tells us not to bring a cordelette and then tells us not to bring bulk webbing b/c cord is better!

Or use a cordelette for a v-thread. or Untie it and use it single strand if you really need a LONG runner, say to wrap around a big tree, horn or boulder (which you can't do with a sewn runner). or If you need to make makeshift ascender/etrier or etrier (for say aiding a few moves or climbing up a fixed tag line or out of a crevasse). or You need cord for splinting. Kinda seems like a weight/bulk SAVER for all the uses IMHO. I actually fixed my cordelette once so I could self belay down and up a section of 4th class downclimbing in a 100+ mph hurricane to tag a summit with a BIG drop below.

Kinda like the cordelette as one can cut it up on descent, unlike dyneema slings.

Ah, guess it's not leather.