johnkelley

Clint at the 1st bivi

A non summit route. Ivan told me about it a few years ago said it was good. nightfly who were you with?

Photos of Clint on route

Why don't Seattle climbers climb here? It's 12hrs from Seattle to the base of the face. It would be nice to have more partners. Finding climbing partners = the crux of Alaskan climbing

The Unforgiven (350m M5 WI6) is just past the couloir between the peaks.

You can climb ice every day of the year without ever having to drive more than a half hour from Anchorage.

The Chugach ice season starts on the 1st of January and end on the 1st of January the following year.

Death Canyon and Cascade Canyon have the most accessable waterfall action on the eastern side. Teton Canyon, on the Idaho side, can be pretty good too.

For a rack I've been using: One full set of DMM Wallnuts 6-8 cams (almost worthless in the icy cracks) 4-8 of the shorest ice screws 4-6 hexes pins: 4 Bugaboos 4 LAs 4 angles 2-6 specter(sp?) ice hooks, for frozen veggies It's a good sized rack with a little of everything. Clint's right, lots of long runouts. It's just the way it is. As far as I know our route is the second one on the face. The line to the right is alot bigger than the photo indicates. I'd guess it will most likely go at WI5 M5 or so and around 8-12 long pitches, depends on how much you can third class.

When I was a kid I worked at a scout camp for a summer. We had a pissing tree. Everyday about 50 of us would urinate on the poor pissing tree as many times as possible. It took all summer but we finely killed it with our piss.

WI4+ or WI5? There's hardly any difference there anyway.

Finished that route with a guy named Josh last week. It took us two and a half days round trip from our high camp and went at V WI5+ M6/7 A1, 2,300'. The temps. were around -15. We named it the History Of Things To Come.

What's the reason?

Must be the dust.

Darkness comes at about 5:30PM this time of year. No dust in Anchorage yet.

PETA wants the state of Alaska to end sport fishing for king salmon. They claim hooking fish causes them great amounts of pain. PETA sucks.

We had a stove, shovel blade, belay parkas/pants, and some food. I'd spend a good bit of time at 14k to make sure you are well acclimatized. I'd also take a very warm (-20*) bag to 14K. I'd also leave a decent sized cache at 14K. That way if you find out that it's to far for you to make it in one push you could reteun to 14K, rest for a few days then move to 17K if need be.

We didn't have any problems going from 14K up and back. Do what you want though. If you want to sit in the shade and freeze your ass off at 17K then go for it. Griz must be from Boulder. Fucking Co retards.

I'd take a warmer bag. 14K to the top and back is the way to go. It suck staying at 17K, too cold.

Next year? I'm thinking tomorrow.

No dust in Anchorage yet.

Doesn't anyone want to climb in AK?

Fec Mec? Tallisman?

Bump

I'm mostly free until mid Feb.and tickets are cheap in the winter.Bigwall mixed, alpine, waterfalls, etc.