johnkelley

I don't think it's the retro bolts. I think it's the rapid increase in the number of bolts and the increased traffic that comes with them. The attitude of most local climbers has changed. Most make no effort to keep a low key profile. The opposite is pretty much the norm now. Both the replacments and the retro bolts have been highly publicized by the bolters. Gotta sell guide books and stuff and don't forget the photo credit. Often claiming they're do the rest of us some kind of service. No effort has been made to try to hide/camo the bolts. The idea of remaining low impact has been completely ignored. A lot of climbers are to lazy to park in a pullout. Parking right on the side of the road has pissed the park off. I can tell by all of the no parking signs. There are ALOT more then there used to be. In the last few years Sunshine Ridge, Pivot Point, Crack in the Woods and a few others have all seen heavy retro bolting. The ASCA's web site list maybe fifty or so replacements. The idea that all of these new bolts and the newly proposed bolting ban are in no way connected is ridiculous.

Maybe they don't like all of these bolts showing up everywhere.

Just noticed the photo credit on that flier you posted. That's the same guy who retro bolted crack in the woods. WTF?

Since you think my ideas are ridiculous maybe you can offer a reason why the CSP has proposed this ban? It's obvious they aren't into all of the recent climber impact.

This shouldn't be a suprise to anyone. I'm suprised it took the csp this long. Lots of new bolts have been going in everywhere. All of those retro bolts at sunshine ridge, pivot point, crack in the woods, etc. plus all of the replacements. Guess the park didn't like that.

The Chugach State Park is now taking comments on it's new policy that bans the placement and use of any perminent anchor in the CSP. I'm guessing they aren't happy about the hundred or so new bolts. So thanks alot to the bolters for their "community service" and another big thanks to the ASCA for supplying most of the bolts.

They asked if they could link my photos to their blog and I said no thanks. The cock suckers did it anyway. WTF?

Trip: University Peak Saint Elias Range - South West Spur Date: 4/29/2011 Trip Report: Here's the FA of the 8,500 foot South West Spur. Kevin Ditzler and I spent a week climbing University from the south west. We spent four days climbing the south west face to where it meets the ridge. Only four of the pitches had any rock. Everything else was AI3/4 for about 7,000 feet. For some wierd reason we thought we could cruise the ridge. After about a half mile of roped pitches and two days we finally found the top. It took the rest of that day and half of the next to decend the North Ridge. We waited in Beaver Basin, the bottom of the North Ridge, for five days with minimal food and fuel for a pick up. Late on the fifth day Paul Claus, Ultima Thule Outfitters, made it in the marginal weather and flew us back to the lodge in time for dinner.

Bolting something does not increase access. It just means that rock that was already accessable now has bolts. Not all stone needs to be ADA compliant.

In the end fixed draws, grid bolted crags, and sport tatics in general will only reduce access.

Went up to Piviot Point area today to have a look. Center Fire now has 3 retrobolts. All for Naught and Naught for All have one retrobolt each. The Butt Crack has two retrobolts. The unnamed 5.8 climb to the right of the crack has had two retrobolts added to it. All of these have been added this fall/winter.

Fact - The ASCA is giving a known retrobolter hardware.

They got chopped a few weeks ago

Well if toproping is to dangerous do something else. You're on to something with the name in print idea though. It's never changed my view on retrobolts but sure has changed theirs

So he uses his "own bolts" for retorbolting and uses ASCA bolts for replacement? This is what he's claiming anyway. I can't believe you guys are supporting adding bolts to 20+ year old climbs.

11 new retrobolts at one very small crag. No merit? WTF? BTW I have been in contact with the ASCA.

And the worst part is the ASCA is giving him bolts. Apparently the "we don't add bolts to climbs" is bullshit.

Alex said I could

Looks like someone put the axe to Splat Button and Hocus Pocus

Make that 13 new bolts at crack in the woods, not counting anchors. Only two are replacments for old bolts. The other 11 are retro bolts added to existing climbs. Lame.

Now there has been a total of nine retro bolts added to the crack in the woods area. All on established climbs. WTF?

I doubt it's been skied.

That's no chisle tip. Fish used to sell bits that looked like that with a carbide tip. If i rember right they had a 1/4" shank and were called an A taper.

Can you get SDS bits that don't have a carbide tip? I've never seen them. I've always used colbalt because you can modify the tip into a chisle. You can also make them any length you like, another huge advantage. Seems like they cut faster, alot faster, then the pointed tip that's on every SDS bit I've ever seen.

Colbalt steel is far superior to SDS for hand drilling.