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Everything posted by 111
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From NOAA today: THERE ARE PRELIMINARY INDICATIONS THAT THE COLDEST AIR MASS OF THE SEASON WILL MOVE INTO EASTERN OREGON BY THE MIDDLE OF NEXT WEEK WHICH COULD RESULT IN MIN TEMPERATURES FALLING INTO THE SINGLE DIGITS OR BELOW ZERO. thanksgiving ice anyone!
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Sage words to live by
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read: If we can make $$ off you, we will!
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This is rather well timed, as I (I'm sure theres a number of you too) just received an Access Fund email regarding the Skull Hollow closure last(?) weekend. There is a letter writing campaign to the USFS to keep the campground open longer or ideally, year round. Below is the text from the email: This is something that is very relevent to many of us, help Access Fund so we can all have an organized voice!
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really? [video:youtube]
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Yet another case of Russians proving they are the most hardcore group of people ever. 50 years of Communism will do that to ya I guess... [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwCyM84HCcA&feature=channel Truly an impressive climbing culture there
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Work took me down to Susanville CA again this fall. We got weathered out a few days into the job so I climbed a different face on Lone Rock this visit. Couldn't come up with a climbing partner, so I figured I'd teach myself how to lead rope solo. And figured, hey, while I'm at it, lets snag an FA while I am learning! I hopped in with our helicopter pilot several days before as he was making his runs near the rock, thus got to do a 30 minute aerial recon of all sides of the rock. (SWEEEEET!!) I picked out a pretty sweet looking 5.5-5.6ish face face that turned to a narrow ridge to the summit. I pitched it out into two, but my 70m I think would have made it to the easy terrain on top. I ran into a pair of 1/4" anchor bolts (with blown out rock 1.5" deep in around one bolt), but they were in an odd spot to be anchors for this route so I am not sure what the deal was. The climbing was fairly clean, protected well all told, but I coulda done some really fun trundling if I'd had more time. All in all, another really fun adventure, and I found several more VERY appealing lines for next year! Unfortunately I forgot the camera when I was actually climbing, so you'll have to settle for the clips from reconing the line. [video:youtube]
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Find a mentor to climb with consistently. BTW, a good sport climber using you as his rope bitch is not a "mentor." Start with top roping, then lead climbing with quickdraws and bolts, practice falling while you know your protection will hold. While trad climbing, just dont fall.
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beware highstepping on shallowly placed hooks. You can leverage them off a flatish ledge. also beware leaning out too far on hooks unless they are really bomber.
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cheers to doing the right thing!!!!
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thats funny. what a moron. what he hell is even in the upper right photo?
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Are the rusty chains on the right from Rooster Rock in the Menage?
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http://gazettetimes.com/news/national/article_912569a9-209b-5a90-982c-70464a20207a.html ouch! it was a short wall, but still, thats some shoddy building
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[TR] Squamish - The Free Grand, 5.13b 10/5/2010
111 replied to marc_leclerc's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
ya, hate to say it, but that was my first thought too; "hey! thats the guy who shit himself!" Oh, and the slab is wicked gnar too! -
This is the bottom line. YOUR $5 DOES NOT EVEN KEEP THE CAMPGROUND OPEN YEAR-ROUND ANYMORE!!! We were all fine camping there when it was stone fire pits and a gravel loop with TP stocked once a week. The fire pits, picnic tables and other "improvements" are what brought the white trash to the place. Before it was just another spot in the desert more or less "owned" by climbers and no one else. The "improvements" are killing the place. WHAT THE FUCK ARE WE PAYING FOR!?!?!?!
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its bs. Who wants to go in on a Bobcat for the weekend to clear some flat spots up the road from skull hollow?!
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Heat shrink bands on your climbing gear
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[TR] Ben Steins Hoary Shaft - Bueeeeeller! 10/10/2010
111 replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
serious??!!?? They're going to close skull hollow!?! WTF!!! I said it the second I saw it, but those installed gates at the enterance are bad news... -
the peak looks familiar from somewhere. BC/Alaska somewhere?
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read the original post Ian sorry, i was trying to offset the jackass...
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Mr. Hands; please go ride your horses up Gray Butte then! The Trad climbing on tuff is absolutely first rate! (just don't fall) heavenly tuff climbs: karate crack, Delerium Tremens, Zion, White Satin, Sunshine Dihedral, Watts Tots, lions jaw, Kunza Corner, Peking... Wanker baa
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what grade are you looking to climb at?