kevbone

Why do you call it Beatard bro?

Pat fuels the fire.

Who are these Republicans of which you speak? All of them

you were seriously off route if you were climbing 5.9 on the W ridge. getting up to long john is 4th or low 5th, out of the W ridge notch is mostly low 5th with a spot or two of 5.5. A totally casual solo. The N ridge is 1000 times better though, and a easy day trip if you're soloing. Very possible. Getting up to LJT on the left side had a 5.8/9 move for sure. We all thought so.....and it was wet. Also about 150 from the summit we encountered a 12 foot section of what we thought was solid 5.9.

Can we start a forum just for Ivan? That way he can spray/blog about all the climbing he does without clogging up this forum.......

I give it 10.a and dont give a fuck what any of you think. Take that!

We climbed in on Sat two days before your amazing time. We summited in 5 hours from the start, then took the lame way down a very loose scree hill that took forever. Then back to our tent. We were not trying to car to car it because of we were on a 4 day back packing trip trying to relax. I thought the move up to Long Johns tower was solid 5.9, maybe because it was a little wet. I would never solo it. Also the final crux came at the very end. Either go left or right. We went to the right and all of us thought it was solid 5.9. Maybe we are lame weak climbers but I would never solo this. Awesome for you!

Dastardly Crack 5.9? I think not. IMO.

We climbed the west ridge of Mt Stuart yesterday. We spent a total of 5 days and 4 nights in the basin. What an amazing place. Climb was simple. We went tent to tent (camped near Stuart pass) in under 11 hours. That is my fasted time. I have been on Stuart 4 times and never that quick. Stuart is huge and to be taken serious. At least for me. Pictures to come.

Awesome. Did this same climb about 7 years ago. Thought the first 500 was terrifying. Scared me silly.....the last 500 was awesome. Great job.

Wow.....I could not imagine climbing with all that gear. I tried to climb it with overnight gear 15 years ago and failed. Came back the following year and went tent to tent with a small pack...... Nice work. Looks like fun in the sun!

It depends on who you ask. Jim calls that the last pitch of Little wing. Crux is at the very end.

Love that part. Its called the vulcan variation.

Awesome trip report!!!!!

Super LAME this happened to you. Try parking on the street. Even if you have to pay for it. I am scared of that garage. Always have been, even when I worked there. I hope you are able to recover some of your stuff.

Well you have to have someone hold the line back while you swing.

Your welcome. One of the party folk from last night dropped them off along with alot of long drives and gin and tonics. Super fun eh..... We got stormed out last night. Called it quits only after 2 hours on the ledge with everybody. Wind and rain are one thing but when the huge thunder and more importantly lightning started it was time to leave and quick.

Nice. Climb the entire climb sans bolts/pins including the anchors. Makes for a slightly more interesting climb. It can be done totally safely.

Amazing

If you have never done this route and are with someone who does not know the way. Finding the anchor on top of the third pitch can be very tricky. FYI....

This is a mixed route. Although it has been done completly on gear and also I just read a report someone did it on bolts alone which I question because you would basically be soloing it. especially for the third pitch which has two pitons 100 feet up from the anchor. Have fun. This is my favorite route at Beacon.

Snow was soft on the descent by the afternoon. We avoided all the snow except for about 15 ft to connect two rock bands. You can traverse from the summit to false summit no problem. What about right over the false summit. In the past there has been a small glacier even in aug. How is that shaping up? Thanks.

I was just asking about the Cascadian and the small glacier that you encounter once you pass the north false summit. Thanks!

+1?????

Great pictures.