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Everything posted by kevbone
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newbie question about MonkeyFace @ Smith Rock
kevbone replied to MountainGirl_Boston's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
The bolt ladder is easy all you need is about 20 quick draws and each climber have a Gri Gri and off you go. Its a team effort. Clip the bolt throw your rope through it and say take and keep doing that on up. Having two ropes makes the repell easy. You can get off with one rope but it sucks. You have to rap into the mouth and rap to bond street and down. -
1 block south of foster on 82nd, right next to the McDonalds is a great taqueria, if you dont speak spanish, you dont order! The best around.
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I have mentioned these added anchors to other climbers and the response is: CHOP, CHOP, CHOP!!!
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Whats up with this? So does anybody know who put the anchor in on Ant Abuse out at Madrone, its has recently been put in? I am talking about the anchor in the middle of the climb, not the top anchor. Oh yeah one other question. Why did someone put this anchor in the MIDDLE of the existing route?
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Alpine lakes!!!
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I wont be there tomorrow, but looking to check it out in the next couple of weeks.
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Yep, thats the info I needed!!!!!!!!!!!
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Yeah, yeah daddio, as you pointed out I already know all that. I was/am looking for more/different info. Anybody??
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Anybody know anything about this place? I have been there once, just walked the base and checked it out, about 4 years ago. I have heard there has been developement going on. Anybody???
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Thanks for the update, I was actually asking about RR.
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What would you think to just giving it proper cleaning? Like all the moss off, so we could see where to climb.
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I think the difference between what me and Arent did was I had only been climbing maybe 9 months to a year. Basicaly, I did not know better. Where you have been climbing for 30 years, you knew better. And, Jim thinks (but is not sure) the piton was taken out a short while later.
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Just what I thought. You never answered the question! Do I have to ask it again?
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"Also, Jim Opdycke understands exactly why I'm posting these BRCA notices and agrees with it - but as of last night he was at a loss as to why you would even bring up this Reasonable Richard topic online as am I as well" You’ve got to be kidding! As to why I brought up the retro bolting job you did, on line. Was to call you out on it! How would you like it if I went up on Lost Warriors and added one or two bolts? And please, don’t stray for the question. How would that make you feel?
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Thats unbelievable!He must have been soloing and running on the trail. Were talking close to 18 mile round trip with close to 5000 foot gain and loss.
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OK, you win, as Crimper pointed out earlier, we cannot stop you lawfully. We can only ask and ask and ask. So let it be known, you are now completely going against the grain and are going against the consensus (read pages 1-15). Again Joe, I want you to know I have no problem with you or your work at beacon, it’s greatly appreciated. It’s just the use of the web. Would you say the senor most member to the BRCA is Jim? I would and he hates the use of the web. It makes him want to puke. So you are going against the founding member and the consensus. Just so it is now documented! We the consensus have asked you to stop, and you have said no! Who made you god? You!
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OK, I think everyone appreciates the anchor replacements (even if some did not need to be replaced), but as far as posting about Beacon on the web: The proof is in the pudding! I scanned/read through almost the entire 16 pages of Beacon Rock posting/squabbling last night. I would say almost 98% of the folks clearly stated it was BAD idea to post about Beacon. This stat is not my opinion. A fact is a fact, read it yourself. So Joe, if you are concerned there is not a consensus to stop, please take the time to really read back and look at all the requests to stop posting on THIS site. Another idea would be that fact that you are always defending yourself as to why you won’t stop. This would be an indication as to the atmosphere surrounding your posts. Once again, I appreciate the work, you know that
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Are you claiming the FFA?
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Arent put in piton about 8 or 9 years ago and it was about 35 feet up, just before you get your first crappy piece in. I know I belayed him, it was done on lead. I believe it has been removed. To my understanding Robert Mcgownin has the first FFA on Stone Rodeo.
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John, Goatboy summed it up. I have climbed the north ridge twice and the west ridge once. The first time (7 years ago on the north ridge) we tried bivying on the route. NEVER AGAIN, I then learned the approach and were to camp. I climbed the north ridge (second time) and the west ridge with about 10-15 pounds on my back. Went tent to tent and had a great outing. Hiked out the next day and back to Ptown. We truly relaxed and enjoyed the day. No rush, no weight and no injuries.
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If thats the criteria for being a member. Then come March-July there is no BRCA.
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Phillip, I would like to see you solo Mr. Bentley. I will even spot you. Stone Rodeo does have mank on it, and is run by today standards. Has anybody out there climbed it? Is it a good route worth working on?
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Truce (white flag): Joe, to perfectly honest the feedback I have gotten it the bolt is a good idea, I think most peoples frustration is the style it which is was put it. With that being said may I give a suggestion as to fixing this problem for the future? If you or anybody wants to add bolts to an existing route (that most likely needs it): first, contact the FFA or die trying: Second, put it out there in the climbing community and lets all discuss it. Then you would hear what people have to say about it before it happens, which could say a lot of heartache. I wanted to put two bolts on a long standing top rope at Broughtons so we could lead it. Well I asked about it on CC.com and the reaction I received was it would not be a good idea. So I did not. I personally don’t like arguing about my church (beacon). And we all enjoy it to its fullest. And we/you can not please everyone. This, of course is merely a suggestion.
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do it in three days and relax and enjoy it.