sweatinoutliquor

This is a huge loss. John was an inspiration. Your right, total suckage.

Nice work! Corvallis representin!

disclaimer added

Oh man, I'm sorry, that sucks. Insurance cover what was in the car?

Yep, I was up there too so without a doubt contributing to the crowd (although summited before the mayhem began and at no point contributed to the cluster because we used gullies away from where others were). I had no expectation of solitude either, and actually enjoyed the somewhat social nature of the climb. Despite the crowd, everyone was real friendly and curtious. The point of my post was not to imply that folks shouldn't climb that route (and NOT to bash mazamas either), and yes, I've seen pictures of it worse. The reason for my post was to express concern over the number of teams roped together without any protection who were directly in the fall line of teams above and below. At one point we counted 35 people who could have been taken out (like dominos) had the highest rope team fallen. There was no reason to line up like that... It wasn't like there was a line of steps people were following. The ground to the left or right of that ant-line was no steeper or more challanging.

It's a goddamn miracle nobody got hurt up there today. At one point I counted 5 rope teams climbing directly above each other, none of which were placing pro. I'm sorry, usually I'm not rude about things, but this kinda crap has got to stop and people need to learn from the mistakes of others in the past. There is a lot of terratory there on either side of that line that was perfectly acceptable, or even other gullies that aren't really any harder (WCR). Cheers to the people (guided groups too!) who were climbing something other than the two main gullies in order to relieve the cluster. Disclaimer: Information contained in this post is considered public information (unless otherwise noted) and may be copied or distributed. The views expressed in this post are not intended to suggest that any climbing or guiding organization acts, behaves, or climbs in a mannar that is unsafe or distasteful to other climbers. Additionally, this post in no way suggests any regulation or limits imposed by an already out of control federal, state, and local governament, its agents, or, their extremist environmental anti-social minions. The opinions expressed in this post do not necessarily reflect the views of the poster sweatinoutliquor, or other suscribers of cascadeclimbers.com. Additionally note that the user sweatinoutliquor may or may not have been intoxicated during or around the time of this post, and that the views expressed would likely have been repressed in person to person conversation. Sweatinoutliquor does not provide any warranty as to the completeness or accuracy of the information and, subject to applicable laws, does not accept any liability for damages of any kind resulting from the access or use of this post or its contents.

I hope you guys are alright?

Excellent pics!

I almost didn't bother to look at this thread cause of the title. Now I'm glad I did! Nice work fells, looks like a lotta fun out there!

:tup: That's awesome!

I think Yates does a pretty good job with this. Perhaps get the double sling and think of it as an upgrade!

BTW, I thought I'd go with a nice shade of yellow for what I believe is the Langille. I could be wrong on that one though

Dudes, sick pics and a badass ski line. 4000' descent?

One more just to clarify (and someone please tell me if I'm wrong cause I'm certianly not the best resource for this stuff!) With the Elliot Headwall circled in red and the coe glacier in green. Gosh the snowdome looks nice in this pic. Not trying to be a whiny little beeotch Boyz, but just wanted to check for sure cause a ski descent of the Elliot Headwall may be a first and sorta a big deal. Regardless of where you went, :tup: to you for a good trip and writeup.

Ummm... I think there may be a couple of confused individuals Elliot Headwall is circled in pink. The two light blue lines are the N. Face Gullies, Dark blue line is Sunshine Route, Light green line is cooper spur. N. Face Cleaver is the major rock feature between N. Face gullies and Elliot Headwall. This pic doesn't do much justice to the Elliot Headwall.

God damn... That's sucks he had to spend a night out in that kinda pain. Glad he is okay though.

Nice to meet you up there ryan. You were one the skiers in from Paradise, right? Where were you two camped (or was it just a day trip)? On our way back down we followed your ski tracks down the glacier and were excessively jealous of your efficient travel mechanism. That serac collapse was pretty huge. Must have been hair raising to see it from where you did.

Nice writeup Chris! Awesome to climb with you again, I can't believe it's been since 2005 since we were last up there. Here's one more pic that Chris didn't post of him scrambling over the rock band we encountered:

Well, cheers to the Portland Mountain Rescue volunteers, other SAR folks involved, and the National Gaurd for all their help up there this weekend. And another round to the two injured climbers from this weekend... Heal quick!

I haven't heard all the details about the 500 footer (yow!), but from what I've read it sounds like the injured gal and her party did a good job taking care of the situation and getting back down to the top of palmer. :tup:

pm sent re crampons

Cool, thanks for the clarification.

Dude, that's a funny read. Glad to hear it's possible to epic 20' off the ground. Weird about your anchor... Just out of curiosity, when you dropped 4', how did that affect thomas? Did he arrest your fall, or was it your anchor? Did 2 parts of your 3 part anchor fail, or just one? Anyway, sorry to make more out of this than it is. Next time you go up there you should bring your bolt gun and the nitro.

Nice work guys... Sounds like a good way to dodge the crowds and catch some of that sun this weekend!