mullster

Ok so this thread is timely. At my worksite the powers-to-be just started a "Biggest Loser" competition. Basic concept: see who can lose the most weight over a 10-week period. Great idea eh? Receipe in disaster as I see it ... promotes crash dieting and starvation. But, since I'm the only one to enter so far, I am guaranteed to win the IPOD. Yeee haww! 2/08 - 86kg 2/10 - 84kg 2/12 - 85kg Goal = 75 kg (or whatever it takes to win, dammit!!!)

Anyone done a trip with Cascade Powder Cats before? How is the terrain and service? I am done south in much warmer climates now but am planning a trip with them in a few weeks, how is the snow conditions in/around Snolquamie Pass?

I'm good with it, climbers should shun government intervention in rescues.....shuuunnnnn! Climbers need to take care of their own, that's what Portland Mt Rescue trains for. If someone screws up and needs a chopper, they or their insurance can pay for lifeflight from the Timberline parking lot. If you want the gov't to help you all the time, and for others to HAVE to pay for our own bad choices, then they get to dictate when and where you and I will go. I reject that. Climbers who want the choppers for free remind me of that Danny Devito character in that Ken Keasey movie, One Flew Over the Cookoos Nest". I couldn't agree with you more .... unfortunately nowadays, the powers-to-be don't take the proper time and judge the risk/benefit ratio when calling in the choppers. They want the incident to be over as soon as possible. Not to mention choppers make good sound-bites and video. Earn your turns people .. don't expect a free ride. And stop coddling to those that do. Granted, there are times when they are warranted ... LIFE OR DEATH. A broken arm, fractured clavicle, concussion, ankle injury, even a suspected spinal injury .. these are not LIFE OR DEATH situations. Sooner or later another chopper accident will occur. Okay, enough of that soapbox.

Okay .. to follow-up There are other treatments available. Cortisone shots, surgery (to scrape some more space in the sheath), and acupuncture. These treatments deal with the symptoms though, mainly the pain, and is recommended for people who can't stop the activity that is causing the injury. Not quite what is happening here, unless you are a professional climber being paid to climb (wish I was!!!). Rest is the best. IMHO

Doug T is spot on. There is no magical cure for tendonitis .. it is an overuse injury that occurs when the space between the tendon and the sheath gets inflammened (due to repetative movement or straining/overuse). This inflammation/swelling is countered by the body releasing more synovial fluid into the space ... which unfortunately causes more swelling ... which causes more fluid to be released. Vicious cycle. Cured only by rest and letting the body heal itself.

9 reported dead, 3 missing on K2 following a large serac collapse. Bummer www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/world/asia/article4452993.ece

This issue with MHM comes up every year. As fheimerd stated, if you talk to them first usually they are cool. They have the right to patrol the in-bounds area, and that is what they are afraid of ... that your poaching the ski area. But if you explain your intentions and stay to the side of the runs as much as possible then they usually don't have an issue. Screw Brad

I'd be interested ...

DAMN!!!!!!!!!!!

Marriage is lame ... of course I'm in the midst of a nasty divorce so I'm a bit biased. Never again I say!!! Oregon requires those that are getting divorced go thru a "parenting class" ... statistics they give include: 1)nearly 50% of 1st marriages end in divorce 2)over 70% of 2nd marriages end in divorce I would have to agree with what was said in an earlier post .. if you are thinking of getting married .. live with the person for a number of years. Travel, have fun, have fights, learn each others idiosyncracies. People change after the rings are put on. And kids ... they are the best things, but NOT a reason to stay together when you know the relationship has ended!! Another thing to think about ... look at your spouses parents .. they will be like them later in life!!! DAMN ... if only I had these helpful hints prior to my walk down the isle!!!! :-(

Perhaps a strong presence by the climbing and SAR community at this event with our thoughts that this bill is a bad idea would help the cause. We all wrote letters, some of us attended meetings, now we should make it to this event -- supports two causes with one beer drinking binge!!!

If they had a GPS, why didn't they just give coordinates? Did you mean that the party of 5 had a GPS, which took you to the snowcave, but the party of 3 who fell did not?? If they did have a gps and did not use it -- shame on them. Regardless of the fact that they had a gps with the group and didn't use it to find palmer is, well, idiotic!

By the way Barker ... you should talk to your KATU friends!! The webpage has White River Canyon where the Reid is. Don't they do their homework??

Just got back from there ... conditions are horrible. Although not as cold as the January search, the visibility and snow conditions are much worse. Difficult to pinpoint their exact location. (The MLU's aren't always the answer!!!) Currently involved in the efforts are PMR, AMR RAT, PJ's (304th), Crag Rats, Mt. Wave, CCSO, and Timberline. On for tomorrow are Eugene and Corvalis MRA teams. Good luck to everyone out there!!!

Apparently rescue crews are heading up towards Illumination Saddle for an accident involving 3 climbers. No other news as of yet, haven't seen any "breaking news" on the reliable tele yet either.

"Santorium" - anal secretions post homosexual relations. Named after Congressman Santorim (sp?) - from the East (I think) that openly bashes gays and votes against civil unions. Although not something I ever want to experience, I want happiness for all.

When I got my pit I was told that although he appeared loving and gentle there may be a time that he just "turns". Someday he will get cranky and turn against any other dog that pisses him off. I've yet to see this, but it does make me wonder sometimes.

Whatever you do don't rely on your rope as a pad (ala Mark Twight "Fast and Light"). I did this once on a winter climb of Hood and is was one of the worst nights out I've ever experienced. Invest in a nice pad, at least 3/4 lenght and then use your pack for the legs. You can also put your legs in the bag for more warmth.

Meadows patrol have no authority to harass you if you descend Wy'est into their area in order to reach your vehicle. Now, if you tried to hop on the lift again - then they could. A fantastic loop is T-Line up and ski down to Meadows. A long and enjoyable day by all!!!

I have worked with this particular SAR-coordinator in the past and she does a bang-up job. She turned a county that had no real SAR resources at all into one with a well equipped and prepared SAR team. She does a bang-up job and knows her stuff. The problems arise when multiple counties are involved..that is when communication breakdowns occur and turf-wars begin. The same happended on the Hood incident.

There were other groups out there during this search. The MRA groups did the most work, and should deserve props, but let's not forget the other players. AMR RAT TEAM - provided ALS medical coverage at SAR Base as well as a team high on the mountain alongside PMR throughout the entirety of the search MT. WAVE - provided top-notch communication support around the mountain. Without them the comms would have been a nightmare PACIFIC NW SAR - provided a ground team on Monday/Tuesday for searching the canyons below Timberline MH SKI PATROL - the nordic patrol searched White River on two seperate occasions SAR in NW Oregon is comprised of a lot of teams. Props to all of them!!!

What one needs to remember is that both the MLU and a PLB require an over-due or missing notification. As Iain said, even with either of these devices SAR can't come get you in a white-out. Also - since the PLB works much like a GPS it will give a coordinate that may be 30mX30m square. A MLU is a pinpoint find. The MLU is much more accurate in finding someone - even someone buried in the snow. PLB's also have issues in canyons and dense forest (remember they are basically GPS systems). Right now, the MLU is the best device to carry, other than common sense and a bit of luck and good skills.

From the following thread I thought some clarification would be good. In Oregon, as in most Western States, the county sheriff has jurisdictional responsibilities for SAR incidents (in Oregon it is ORS 401). This is different in National Parks where the NPS has authority. During incidents such as this, the sheriff utilizes "experts" for consultation (PMR/Crag RATs for alpine stuff, AMR RATS for medical stuff) Locally on Hood we have teams that play roles: 1)Clackamas & Multnomah Sheriff - ultimate responsibility in their respective counties 2)PMR - mra group primarily responsible for SW side of Hood and technical rope rescue outside of fire department jurisdicition in Clackamas County 3)Crag Rats - mra group primarily responsible for NE side of Hood and technical rope rescue outside of fire department jurisdiction in Hood River 4)AMR RAT TEAM - medical hasty team of paramedics who respond to alpine/trail/water incidents in any county as requested - normally first unit dispatched for Clackamas region calls 5)Pacific NW SAR - ground sar (below timberline) team 6)MULTNOMAH Post 631 - ground sar (below timberline) team 7)Army 1042nd - air evac unit from Salem, not well versed in alpine arena 8)Air Force 304th - defunct team (they have no helicopters and have to hitch rides with the Army) but have members locally and much gear - assists as needed As you can see, a lot of players, but each have their own role. The question of utilizing only the PJ's is a risk/benefit question. Are helicopters worth the risk (refer to hood 2004) for a broken leg? Probably not. The ground teams are more than adquate to do 99.9% of the searches they are called upon to perform. The cost involved in having a "paid SAR team" like they have in the Alps and Canada is too high for this region. These large scale incidents don't happen that often to warrent such a program. Also - accidents on Hood happen - it's part of the game. This one happen to spike the public's interest and get media attention, but it's no different than the broken leg off the Hogsback we ran last year.

I use the figure 8 as a multiple connector point during some rescue work, ala Petzl Paw or anchor plate. Works really well.