JosephH

Ahh, the unspeakable joys of pegmatite.

The last couple of McDonalds CEOs died of congestive heart failure at fairly young ages.

Would love to but I'm in LA all week...bummer to miss good weather.

Looks like the perfect solution... All I know is it's waxy and sets up a bit in low temps making the cams a little slow - will have to give pink's suggestion a go. Don't know, didn't get any on the webbing.

Only that a bunch of dirt ended up in the bottom of the container that the cams soaked in. I periodically worked the action, but it seemed to take a bit for the dirt to all come out of the works. I was a bit surprised by that.

Have been using Metolius cam lube, which I believe is repackaged bike lube or sort or another. It's good, but seems like its waxy character is somewhat temperature dependent so in the end I ended up hitting them with some WD-40 afterwards which freed them up quite a bit and called it good.

Our grid system is old, the [regional] politics surrounding it substantial, and while the power and technical issues around both balancing the system and integrating wind / solar are significant, they pale compared to the politics.

Without more details it's hard to say, but it sounds like this wasn't so much an RB environs-specific accident, per se, as one of some sort of technical oversight typical of rappelling accidents. That said, there can be plenty of distractions out there. In the end though, RB is what it is. It's home to a number of fine lines, but in a problematic setting and with serious safety issues. Then again, pretty much any crag you approach and setup on from the top should set off automatic warning signals in your head; add slick-as-snot soil conditions and you have a very dangerous place. I think many folks seriously underestimate the place because it's a short, innocuous, urban 'practice' crag - don't be one of them - be on your guard and extremely careful at all times out there.

...much better cams work after a season of use if you steep the business end in boiling hot water till it cools down, shake them out, hang them up to air-dry overnight, and then give them a proper lube. An almost shocking difference... [ST cross-posted]

Had to bail on today due to work - several of us are heading out tomorrow late morning.

Starting to look halfway decent out there...

Enjoy, have to work today. Had a great session yesterday afternoon, Hoping for the same tomorrow and friday afternoons...

Need to get out, have a flexible schedule and watching the weather. Tomorrow, thu, and fri afternoons look good - PM if interested...

Sometimes it seems like 87.65% of Oregonians are from Michigan - you guys are everywhere. If Michigan had mountains no one would live here.

Will be going out either tue, thu, or fri - I'll pm you with my info.

Well, it sounds like there will be a crew out at RB at 5, maybe you could make it out there and jump in with them...

Where's your CUBE? Going to go out to DZone and don't mind going / staying late if you want to get in a couple of pitches...

Nope, being a simpleton they were just too complicated for me...

PM me if interested, prefer local buyer...

PM if you're available and game...

Whatever else, Pat is and has always been a novel and interesting character.

I'd take them... Edit: Oops...So much for the quick glance approach to reading comprehension. I'd take one as well...!

Probably in the outlet mall I'm guessing. Wilsonville will work fine. Good luck and give us a shout once you're here.

Of those two? Get the Element. Get a Mammut Supersafe if you want total burl and longevity.

What work is happening down that way? You'll be a ways out of town, but the idea of not living far from work still holds. You could probably get away with from Wilsonville (14 miles) on up to Durham / Lake Oswego (25 miles), but not really any further north than that I would think. At least living north a bit you'll be going opposite of most traffic.