JosephH

Where did you get yours?

Here is some initial information about [potentially] defective Aliens that can be visually identified by an atypical marking. This information has been conveyed/confirmed by several retailers, affects cams beyond the orange, but is not yet positively related to the incident that kicked off all this most recent round of discussion... ========================================================= From RC.com ========================================================= "I don't think they are saying the dimples are in the braze, but just below the bulb on the solid metal piece that the axle passes through. Correct me if I'm wrong." This would appear to be the only photo of a possible "defect dimple" (at the base of the bulb, not on the wire/brazing) available at the moment and it comes from the "Recall" thread.

A formal recall is in the works and I suspect it will be announced fairly soon. CCH is new to the process, though, so it will probably take at least a couple of days for them to get up to speed...

I wish I had high hopes for being able to identify "batches/years" affected but my real suspicion is that as a craft/artisan shop that just cranked some out when they had the material and gumption that records simply don't exist as one would assume for a normal manufacturing operation. I also suspect the culture is one where these problems aren't a "unique" or "isolated" affair but a cultural one that is fairly systemic and simply cycled high enough in 2005 to be publicly exposed. I hope that isn't the case, but I for one will be bounce testing all years, all sizes, in both regular and hybrids. Hopefully CCH will now revamp it's operations to institue more formal QC standards and processes.

All the cams in question with the three defects known so far were purchased from retailers. While the cause has not been conclusively established, at least two 2005 stem braze failures have occured. These defects, along with service and retailer problems are at this point documented facts. Testing yours is definitely optional, but I'll be testing mine as soon as I get a chance to. Again, we don't want to lose Dave, CCH, or Aliens - we just want to be able to depend on them.

Folks, It's been clearly established over the past year that stem braze, trigger sheath, and axle hole location defects have made it out CCH's door, into retailers, and onto folks' racks. This is also on top of a long history of service that could only be described as "intermittent" at best as well as years of retailer frustration from attempting to do business with them. From the nature of the details surrounding each of those defects along with a litany service problems a pretty clear picture emerges of a craft/artisan operation not at all unlike say a blacksmith or jewelry maker. Dave and CCH have clearly made "lifestyle" choices that go a long way to defining this business and it is not a stretch to say that it is probably not the typical engineering/manufacturing culture one normally associates with the production of consumer hard goods. Again, anyone that has been involved with manufacturing quality standards can quickly deduce there is no real formal or even rudimentary quality controls in place. If there were, the use of even a simple cam lobe [fit] test jig for each size cam at the start of a CNC run would have prevented the axle hole problem and if they were pull testing each finished cam it would be unlikely that we would see heads popping off them. The trigger sheath issue had no simple solution. As for service, when I send a cam in for a simple repair it shouldn't take four months of hassling them by email, snailmail, and phone to get it back. Dave responded badly to this incident but he has since come around in his response and we can only hope that he further sits down and really reconsiders his whole approach to manufacturing and starts down the road to a change in both culture and processes at CCH. Climbing hasn't been innocent since we lost Chouinard and none of us want a replay of that scenario with CCH. If you have cams made in 2005 my recommendation would be to set up somewhere and vigorously bounce test them, closely examine the axle hole location and camming range, and return any that are a problematic for a replacement (which I'd also test the same way for now.)

Do you go anywhere for a beer afterwards? My friend Marco would like to meet you guys and maybe give it all a whirl sometime but can't get out there in time to climb tonight...

I'd take the mini-traxion...

Windsurfers were using motocross armour on big days for awhile but I think everyone bagged it as too clunky...

Where are you now? I'm an old Southern Illinois sandstone climber and while it took a couple of years I did final adjust to climbing out this way and Beacon has been my "adopted" home crag for years. Give a shout if you do indeed come this way and we'll show you around or if you have any other questions about life in PDX...

On 3.0 days I sometimes windsurf with a similarly equipped Conrad hockey helmet that I hit with a Sawzall to cutout a rectangle over the eyes. Sometimes I get concerned with the weight of it contributing to a whiplash-like effect on big crashes - especially when I get whipped around the front of the board hooked in which [unfortunately] still happens on rare occasions...

Mark, Would love to have you in on it. All the low, middle and top anchors have been replaced from Flying Dutchman to "Flying Swallow" / "Flighttime" with the exception of "Takes Fists". There is still mid/top anchor on "Flighttime" that requires a rap from much higher up on the face still to get. Most of the work will be from Flying Dutchman to Little wing and will wrap it all up. What we are really going to need is for everyone interested in doing these column routes to pick one, adopt it and clean it out good (I have the gear if needed). Most of them won't be that big a deal, but a couple like "Takes Fists" which is overgrown by bushes every couple of feet will be multi-day team epics. "Flying Dutchman" is done as is much of "Iron Maiden".

Beacon Rock Update Notice 1/2/2006

=================== Beacon Rock Update - 1/2/06... =================== !!!Caution!!! SE Corner Rockfall Jim Opdyke got homesick and went out to Beacon Sunday and reported a significant rock fall has occured from very high above the SE corner. This rock fall spread rock from where the trail meets the rock all the way around and just short of tunnel #1. To spread in this pattern the rock fall must have occured quite high, possibly even coming off the SE corner ridge. At this time we do not know where the rockfall came from or if there is still more highly unstable rock up above. We hope to get out on a survey mission as soon as we get a break in the weather for a couple of days. If we do we'll also get photos and a more detailed study of the rock at the top of p1 on Young Warriors while we're at it. Remember, Beacon is a highly dynamic crag with a long history of large loose rocks coming down periodically. Until we know more about this incident be doubly cautious and alert if you are out there doing anything around the SE Corner between now and Feb. 1st when the park closes to climbing. SE Corner Tree After all our discussions of the SE Corner tree we will see how resilient it is as Jim O. said this rockfall took about 6 feet off of the main branch extending out to the South. If nothing else it will certainly lower its drag profile. Further, BRSP staff checked with the state biologists and habitat folks about the the SE Corner tree and the consensus back was do nothing to it and that settles that discussion as their word is final. Dogs and Parvo BRSP Staff wanted all you dog owners to be aware that there is a high incidence of Parvo within all boundaries of the park. If you have any questions about this please do drop in and talk to them. NW Parvo FAQ Peregrine Closure and Monitoring 2005 was a great year for seeing the falcons (and bears). David Anderson with WSFW is responisble for the Peregrine Management Plan and he really dedicated a lot of energy in to the monitoring Beacon in 2005 along with all his other duties which led to this year's early opening. But we never found the nest this past year but we do know they didn't nest in their usual South face nest/scrape on Big Ledge. Unfortunately, knowing where they are nesting is a requisite for any real early opening. To open the South face significantly early requires that we locate where they are nesting, not simply saying where they are not. We and Dave will be putting a lot of effort into locating their scrape this coming year and will keep you posted as that monitoring kicks in. 2006 Pre-Opening Work Session We don't have a schedule yet but the proposed focus of this year's Work Session is cleaning up Grassy Ledges and above of loose rock. Some rockfall like what just happened we can't control, nor do we want to - we like Beacon wild - but the two decade buildup of rock on high traffic areas above the routes at the base of the Beacon's SE flank have to be addressed before there is a serious climber-initiated accident. We had quite a bit of rock come down this year on to the trail on busy weekends and we'd like to minimize this next season. This is particularly an issue on the lower Grassy Ledges from Blownout to Little Wing. We will also be doing more anchor replacements in this area during the session because it had too high a load of loose rock to work on it this past summer and fall while it was open. Setting up this effort takes a bit of coordination relative to dropping rocks down. We'll probably have Parks biologist/habitat folks out again and possibly others relative to determining the best drop zone for the rocks coming down. As of now it looks like the area below Blownout is a good candidate with regards to having a minimum impact on trees. We'll keep you posted on scheduling though it is almost entirely dependent on the Peregrine fledging and WSFW's approval to proceed. BRSP Staff Just a note to say that the BRSP Staff is highly supportive of climbing at Beacon as one of its many unique and distinctive characteristics as a WA State Park. We are fortunate to have them. I'd encourage all of you do drop by and at least meet them and say hello and introduce yourselves at some point in the season - you might be surprised at how nice and supportive they really are. Joseph Healy Beacon Rock Climbers' Association Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com P.S. Please extra careful on the ice and in all your alpine endeavors this winter and play safe...

That's certainly an opinion you could come to but I'd disagree with it...

Actually, clipping cams directly and ignoring appropriate slinging can bite you hard, even at the creek... from: Creek / Ruby Fall commentary...

Stuff up in BV will be cold. But if it's 60, sunny, and for sure forecast to to stay that way at least the following day I wouldn't hesitate to give epi a go. Nothing on it is particularly hard but I'm not sure about calling it a moderate in terms overall car-to-car commitment/energy. Go early, fast, and light if you do it. Those little air activated hand warmers really help as well when climbing in the shade all day...

Astanga yoga

Larry, given I only know two climbers that own cliffs, those two statements would appear to contradict each other in general application...

Blake, First, where are you talking about? Second, if you are simply replacing existing bolts then I don't think it matters how you do it, rap or ground up - doing the job right is all that matters. And last, just be aware it's a big pain in the ass in general and doing it right without damage can be quite job. Also are you talking granite or basalt? If you really end up doing this give a shout before you head out and I'll pass on what few tips I have...

Please do be careful with all you're winter toys out there!!! It's already been a pretty high accident rate in PDX over the past two weeks. Everyone take some extra precautions at this point...

Get folks to step up and volunteer to adopt and clean one column route each out at Beacon now that the anchors have been replaced on them.

Didn't get nearly as much climbing in as I wanted and particularly didn't make it to the Valley in either spring or fall due to injuries, but managed to keep busy on the whole...

I'll probably swing by. Come on Bill...!

While I might clip them, knowing a few of those "hardy souls" I for one wouldn't kiss their pitons as god knows how long their disease might linger on those stiffly pounded old tools...