Chriznitch

hmmm...the Sawtooth range sounds enticing Nice job and good timing

I think this is where Petzl gets some of their ideas (ie, the illustrated climbing tips in all of their catalogs)

I've been rolling a pair of these for a while. Certainly not the best for a lot of trail hiking (approaches), but a good alternative to mixed climbs where warmer temps neglect the need for heavier plastics.

I suppose it could. There's a couple belay anchors at the top of the slab that can break up the first pitch

is this a hardhat that has been genetically spliced into your head? just kidding! Thanks for the report

I was reading "Ways to the Sky" last night, and there's a small section on this: To paraphrase... Croft went from the Stuart TH w/ only a banana & 1 litre of water. Climbed the NR of Stuart, Sherpa, Argonaut, & Colchuk. Grabbed a fig bar that Greg Foweraker stashed for him. Then Dragontail, Little Annapurna. Had extra daylight, so he then did the south face of Prussik. A couple weeks later was the Waddington traverse w/ Foweraker & Serl!

might as well release if it's already @ 2/3

nice pics. Good Sept weekend trip planning!

I am still under the impression that this gets climbed somewhat frequently. However, there was a point where, basically, we began to dislike the route. We realized that backing off would SUCK--mostly for the descent back down the gully. Had there been snow it would have been different. Sketch factor = intimacy with Oregon erosive geology 2 things cheered us up: 1.) roping up 2.) slight improvement in rock Here's another view of the ridge/rim:

I remember that bird!

coo

Climb: Oregon road trip: Mt Washington (north ridge) & Broken Top (South Face Gully) Date of Climb: 9/23-25/2004 Trip Report: To prepare for another term of grad school, my buddy Nate and I took advantage of an excellent weather window to climb some Oregon rock. We started off with the North Ridge of Mt Washington--a peak of negative fame this year. This was cold and wet from recent snows. Basically a scramble, we climbed unroped and brought a light 60m rope for one rap on the descent. We saw 2 other solo climbers up there. I knocked a substantial foot hold off on the crux move (exposed, easy 5th) of the climb, luckily avoiding Nate below. The moisture made this route more interesting and slippery than usual. There is a 2-month old register at the top that is already halfway full. People have scribbled and wasted space like it's an elusive summit. At the base of the "nose" we traversed around to peek at the west face. The only route on this side that interested me was the west ridge. On day 2 we worked on rock skills at Smith Rock, climbing various cracks on Spiderman Buttress before ending the day climbing the actual "Spiderman", a fun climb that can be done in one long pitch with a 60m rope and long runners. We broke it into 2 pitches... Day 3 we climbed the South Face gully route on BT, by far the most serious route of the trip. Although technically easy (low 5th class), this route crosses over the sketch rock of BT's crater rim. Looking from the south: Expect incredible views down the insane northeast face of the mountain and down the more moderate east face to the Bend glacier: There are also great views of the impressive east face of the west peak--any takers? Kinda looks like something in Canada, but more scheisty: Accessed from the BT trailhead, this route took 7 hours round trip. We moved pretty slow along the rim, and could see people on the summit for quite a while before we finally topped out. The views of the Sisters can't be beat: At one point we actually crossed over a window (hole/arch) in the ridge! The descent was uneventful involving a downclimb of the step on the NW ridge route. We jogged down the scree of the nw face, and hiked 1/2 way around the peak to the car and some warm PBRs. We passed some dude running from the TH down to the highway in hiking boots! Something was making him smile (?). Gear Notes: at least a 50m rope for Mt Wash rappel; small rack for the south face gully route (with slings); tennies Approach Notes: road to BT trailhead is in good shape

7 days in the mountains during winter is impressive even without A summit, let alone a 4th... To up Iain's winter traverse idea, I think this would be the ultimate: NS (Northeast Arete, descent headwall under souteast & south ridges); MS (northeast gully, descent south side); SS (Silver Couloir, descent via Prouty Glacier or Green Lakes); BT (north face, descent west face)

good clips. I love this shot:

the "trekking and orienteering" portion of the race must be pretty burly to allow a fatal head wound

not exactly the kind of site you stumble upon!

thanks for the report--too bad you didn't summit. Nice pictures too. This one pretty much sums up your conditions:

hmmm..."edible stove fuel" or good ol' trusty white gas

by the way Tex, I caught the Willie Nelson show the other night. You'd be proud...

it sounds like the route that could provide the icing on my Oregon "cake of experiences"

now that's a boulder!

it's cheesy, but it does cover a handful of "birds" mentioned in the book with one "stone"

maybe I should get my mom some crampons...

hmmm... somebody's gonna have to follow her with the pad to keep it below her. I'll volunteer