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corvallisclimb

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Everything posted by corvallisclimb

  1. :tup: edit: what up markd!!! that rout we did was the one that Jim had bolted. hope alls well with you dude!
  2. erik...i know that you live in WA, but is there even any granite in OR? that granite wall near the salem boulders looks like a mini index
  3. This supplement is quite a let down. Its mostly just copied text from the internet, loosely put together with Ryans 01 supplement. With Watts new book heading to press this supplement will soon be a lost cause. It seems the me this was thrown together over a night of browsing the smithrock.com site and just copying text, and coming up with a couple of topos dawn in MS Paint.
  4. Hey nice work up there! I meant no offense by that I was just curious, because Eric didn't top out either when he did it. Its actually not that bad on the last pitch you wouldn't knock any shit down, if you wanted to haul but its best to just jug it with the haul bag on your back. I'm stoked to see every one out there aiding and soloing non the less. Keep the aid TRs coming.
  5. Twin Pillars - Mill Creek Wilderness Main Pillar - Campfire Route? 1 Lead Bolt 1 Anchor Bolt W Bryan Schmitz 4/19/07 ha for us hardly i think we did that F6 A3 route but who even knows!
  6. Hills Creek Spires has about 20 routes only 2 or 3 being the Tvedts, this crag is not in anyway over bolted. Plus one of them he put up on lead so it is not your standard Tvedt route.
  7. Sorry I was just going off what I was told by him.
  8. Don't get charged 80 bucks for that pile of paper like the other Brian in the back did. Must be the homie hook up price.
  9. Nothing, but the way you have presented the situation sort of comes off that way. Acting like you own Moolack and trying to spray that through this thread. I think its rad you are stoked on the boltless climbing, wich can be quite fun. But were talking about Moolack here wich to me is a crag. Its not some huge alpine wall. Its not in the wilderness. Most of the routes I gather require extensive cleaning on TR. Theres not much golden age history invovled with the place. So IMO Moolack doesnt really lend itself to this hard core no bolts gritstone ethical chest beating battle. I've learned its best not to try and dictate what other people do climbing, I mean its why we choose to climb right because of the freedom to do what YOU want. Just like you have the right to put up R rated routes on rappel with inconvenient anchors in a crag setting, why doesnt the next guy not have the right to put a couple bolts in on the face next door. The Menagerie lends itself to the ground up hand drilling ethic because its a wilderness, and well spires and summits need to be climbed from the ground up. But besides the laws and the terrain dictating the ethic, there isnt some climbing czar telling you how you have to put your route up. You might as well not out Moolack, because that only gets you closer to seeing bolts there. Its well enought known now that if someone really cared to climb like that I know they could figure it out. Thats kind of the thing this is climbing in the 21st century and most climbers don't go to a crag to try to push the limits of LNT climbing. If your really that concerned with LNT tactics at the crag I'm even more shocked you want to out the place. I hope you continue to put up routes in the style you choose, because its great to see the ethic still practicd. But I'm not going to cry at all if someone comes and bolts a line or just an anchor at Moolack.
  10. face climbing is fun... fuck no bolts! no one cares about moolack for this reason and this elitist attitude ain't helpin your cause.
  11. wheres the stoke for oregon routes? or does every one just go to beacon?
  12. the only 2 falls ive ever taken aid climbing where on the great roof... mabey im suck or was trying to skip bolts but in my memory the aid moves are a tad harder on the great roof. but heres the good news both where static falls onto shitty gear, a 2 cam yellow alien and # 1 metolius nut. one was when a cam hook blew and the other a red HB. vivid memories in my aid career. but goes to show shit holds, so get at it!
  13. actually i soloed the reverse christian brothers traverse for my birthday, no where near as serious as "the death route"
  14. there are medium walls there but for an extra 20 on your climbing permit you can biggie size your wall
  15. Jim at Area51 dont know the route... it could be TLC but looks like A51
  16. nice pics that route looks rad... but one look at who did the FA and the grade and all i can say is sandbag!
  17. Ian are those in oregon??? this is an oregon tread!!!!
  18. same area, wrong rock, right theme.
  19. heres Jim Anglin on some very solid oregon stone
  20. we were useing the new BD off set proto types, pretty rad. nice job out there ivan i had a blast.
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