corvallisclimb

Who does a good and quick re-sole around these parts these days? Thanks in advance.

mark- lonesome crowded west 5.9 FA mark d and chris g?

yeah, convenience anchors in the wilderness suck!

Menagerie Rooster Rock 2 Anchor bolts on the summit. PS and if any one knows who added the nice 1/2" bolts to the summit of rooster rock most likley with a power drill. Let me know so I can cut their nuts off. Tell em they can have their hangers back.

OldManRock- How about you tell us a story about the FA? Please!

Old Man Rock Dilleys Delight 1 lead bolt W Greg Orton & Harold Hall May 08

With the help of Ryan Lawson, Thomas Emde, Mike Stoger and I, I think we replaced over 120 different bolts at Smith Rock over the past week. To name a few, Caffine Free, A Phone Call From Satan, Ship Wreck, everything over on the Pheonix Wall, Five Easy Peices, Lichen It, Sunshine Dihederal where all worked on or fully replaced. Our goal was to hit the high use areas where theres lots of wear and tear. Thanks everyone for all your help and donations to ASCA(safeclimbing.org)

Smith Rock Marsupials Traverse/The Opossum 2 Anchors bolts (on the final rappel) W/ Kip Beckwith 3/08

Over the past few years I became good friends with Jim. Acctually I joined cc to pm him for information on the Menagerie. I always had so many qeustions for him about his routes and such. So eventually we met up to climb in the Menagerie. We instantly got along with our passion for aid climbing, the Menagerie, bolt replacement and other passtimes. After that Jim was a frequent climbing partner of mine, out in the Menagerie and at Smith as well as other areas. I went down to Yosemite this winter for my 21st birthday with Jim, we spent the day free climbing in the sun then went to hang out in the alcove on El Cap. Where Jim pulled out a bottle of schnapps and handed it to me with a "happy birthday". Now I hadn't really thought of going to a bar or anything but Jim made sure I got that birthday buzz. We sat there till the sun went down just telling stories from young vs old, Jims stories where always the best. Now we didnt get up any walls that trip because of snow, but it was an extremely memorable one in my book. Now this past Friday Jim called to let me know he was going to be out at Smith, I tryed to get him to come to the Menagerie, but he had already had plans with his wife to head down that driection. As always he was excited to climb but also was excited because he was about to take a little bit of time off climbing to enjoy some of the other aspects of life. Jim wished me luck and was already looking forward to hearing about what we climbed. That was the last I heard. I spent the rest of the weekend in the Menagerie until monday evening coming up with all sorts of new questions for Jim. When I arrived back to Washington where I'm living now, I finally plugged in my phone to check for messages. The first message was from a friend desribing the situation, I knew he was mistaken. The when the next message was from JR I knew it was true. Jim was a true inspirtation. For anyone whos repeated any of his routes at Smith or in the Menagerie, you know how competent of a climber he was. Jim was a mentor to me, I learned so much from him, and continued to do so. But most importantly he was a friend. And thats what I'll remeber. Jim- I will miss you tons my friend. Till the next time I can ask you a question about some climb. As you would always say to me go tear it up! -Tyler P.S. You can be sure that your ledge will make it up Skull Queen this next time! Jim on the 2nd ascent of his own route "Playing Opossum" in his element in the Menagerie scoping his own route "Bubbas in Bondage" on the PLW on a speedy ascent of the east face

great pics! try the east face or nw passage for more sustained and a tad harder clean aid. mabey a little more rack than the west and a few more hooks and youll be set.

Marks in Yosemite he knows nothing about tuff, all granite and nothing but!

sounds like a step down to me, that old adventure section was really cool, same with having the ice in there... wtfs up with this new breed of shitty oregon books now

to be more specific i have from sept 20-30 and oct 6-20 free in the valley

Orc Wall at index was cool but getting kinda dirty ted nugent in a basket could use some gardening!

bump

we made it in a little subaru once, theres only one really bad spot on the road the we had to move some rocks. no problem for a pickup.

South rabbit ear is more like 5.8+ (ha what ever that means) and the north rabbit ear is 5.10a both feat new bolts there has been a tyrolean set up beetween the ears and also one from the north rabbit ear to panorama point.

Looking for someone with past aid/wall experince to do something in the Valley... hoping to get on the captain but the column could work too. PM me. Tyler

Then its probably one of Ryan Lawsons routes. Looky here http://www.smithrock.com/flash/routeupdates/

Menagerie Royal Arch - B&M Route 1 lead bolt on P2 Boulder Dome - South Face 2 Anchor bolts W/ Brian Claytor 9/07

light hand drill: http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-8511-6984-Hand-Drill/dp/B00004T80S

Jeff Thomas was the first to free the turkey in 70's by a variation to the Dod Route. Tom Blust freed the original finish shortly after. South West (Bauman bros 1968) was free climbed by Tom Blust and Kent Bennesch by a short variation. The unrepeated route is Wild Turkey 5.8 A4 Tom & Bob Bauman that starts just to the left of the regular route.

Ian- It was probably sniffle tower... classic route with a little bit of rotten rock. Ryan Lawson put some stuff up right there, and markd's got some goodies around there as well.

Nice work Radek! :tup: I put that bolt atop P2 about 2.5 years ago, plan to upgrade some more mabey later this year.

i figured id cross post this because of the trail work part of things. looking for someone or a couple of people to spend a couple days next week climbing and doing some trail work in the menagerie. advanced rock skills are a must as this is mostly adventure style climbing. pm me if intrested -Tyler