corvallisclimb

tale of two shitties! i was waiting for you to show up on this thread

it was insane but i highly reccomend it :crosseye: craziest summit ive done in oregon

fo sho classic route, way to skip bolts up there!

yes sir, if you climb that other chimney you have to rap back to the ground before you climb back up so its not like what it says in the book.

i know you all have cool pictures so lets see em... heres another classic

yup its the little finger

yes its out there but whats the name?

heh no mine is in a guide book hell ya dude get down here and climb the slabs with me bro i need a belay

heh not steins pecker.... shapps got some eastern oregon granite? who knows the route? lees peak?

mark d started a post like this awhile ago that was a bunch of fun. but it got filled with climbs from all over. so im starting one for oregon. ill kick it off with one from the eastside.

i dont think atlantis has had a 2nd yet. i think they are just playing bandaloop.

its acctually the second pitch anchor of atlantis. with an 80m static.

2 toughest routes in all of oregon!

No bolts....maybe a piton or two...but hopefully clean aid. holy shit! you better keep your fingers crossed!!!!

hehe ya... the rivet ladder at smith is proud

now i know your talking about "toms bolt ladder" your a sucker for sick aid

yeah 30 min chop and pach job no more. no need to try to pull the cone like moof suggests wich is good but only for replacing 3/8 rawls with 1/2, not to mention a pain in the ass, and damn near impossible in the basalt. chop but dont patch then those guys can have a sick bat hook ladder, you may learn a little more about aid climbing that way.

the great roofs the only easy aid pitch in the marsupials. i guess i put up one route out there thats about 5.7 A1 its called loose hookers and should be on smithrock.com youll need some pins. other than that your pretty much out of luck unless you want to aid 5.11 free routes. toss that smith select and get a real guide.

west face of monkey - 5.6 C1 - great beginner aid route mostly bolts with a good C1 crack for P1 nw passage on monkey - 5.6 C2 - mores sustained finish to the west face, finishes on the north face route east face of monkey - 5.6 C2 - steep sustained thin nutting great roof on brogan spire - 5.6 C1+ - good beginner route tricky placements between bolts and a bolt traverse those are the best clean aid pitches in the park and also as Ian said the pioneer route has a bolt ladder on it.

at a place like beacon where all i here is people bitching about bolts and every damn ethical thing under the sun. here i read dont pull old bolts just drill next to em... WTF is up with this place. ivan wanna go aid elsewhere sometime?

Menagerie The Bridge The Newt Route 1 anchor bolt atop P2 1 lead bolt on P3 W/ Chris Fralick and Randy Rimby 11/08 and thats how you drill hidden single bolt belay

Nice job you guys. What a great weekend up there eh? We were over on north and south rabbit ear that day. Glad to see Logan finally make it out there he kept telling me he was going to. Nice send, the west face though dirty as hell protects pretty damn well for a menagerie route. Did you do Winter Sunshine to the top in one pitch? :brew:

you beacon climbers are a strange breed, you guys crack me up! especially markd!

Ya I have head good things about Ramuta. Sounds like he might be the one. Anyone have his e-mail or contact info for those of us that live no where near seattle? Thanks