selkirk

and you think Tenure will help you get laid? I remember some research thing that came out a couple of years ago the looked into frequency of sex by occupation. As memory serves Fireman had more sex than anyone else... any guesses who came in last?

Even crappy gear that pulls out above the belay absorbs energy and will prevent a true factor 2. Just thing of those initial nuts and little cams like screamers! Sacrificial energy absorbition!

I think one of the TR's mentioned 10hrs car to car, which seems about right. Probably want to be leaving the trailhead no later than 6:00?

Someone's just envious that they haven't been getting any of the good ice in

Miner are bondage bunny slippers with lots of buckles and straps so that they fit nice and tight and have lots of support! Very nice for front pointing and they're even baby-blue!

Climb: Chair Peak-N. Face Date of Climb: 2/19/2006 Trip Report: Took a very relaxed trip up to Chair peak over the weekend. Hiked in Saturday afternoon so we could get a nice early start on Sunday, and spent the evening relaxing at camp by the Thumbtack. Headed out from camp about 6:30ish and headed up to the col and then traversed the base of the N. Face to the start of the route. After a little luck and little digging we managed to dig out a nice fixed belay anchor at the base of the first pitch (composed of a slung pinch and something frozen into the ice ) (Also bootied a sling and 2 biners from the anchor, of unknown age. They were just clipped to fixed anchor slings, for some unkown reason ) The first pitch had reasonable ice though it was a bit thin just out from the belay. Managed 2 reasonable screws, with 1 picket out of the iced gully, then traversed over to fixed pin, backed up with 2 tools for a belay. A wee bit of 70 degree ice in the gully followed by 50 or 60(?) degree snow. (About 50m total?) From here headed up to the trees and managed 2 pickets, 1 marginal screw and slung tree before getting to the larger tree slightly above the top of the small stand of trees. (full 60m from the pin). Mostly 50-60(?) degree snow with some ice for pro by the rocks. 3rd pitch ran past another tree (leaning almost horizontal) staying slightly right and off the face (allowed more secure climbing). 1 bad picket, a couple of trees, a small cam below in high and right of the ice bulge, then a marginal screw in the bulge led to a smallish tree on the right for a belay. (50+ meters) Last pitch had about 20 m of steep snow, leading to easy terrain up to the summit (1 picket) The ice was in OK condition, but the snow is deteriorating and turning into sugar. About 1/2 well consolidated styrofoam and 1/2 sugar with weak crust. Did 1 single rap followed by some downclimbing to the large saddle in the SE gully. The snow level is high enough right now to reach the three fixed pins at the saddle, and did a double rope rap from here, then downclimbed/glissaded back to camp. Also saw a party of 2 on the route. Sorry to slow you guys up at the first belay! Once they started the simul-ed the full route on about 1/2 the gear we used and blew past us. Very mellow pace but a heck of a lot of fun for my first ice climb! Of course after reading about Jens climbs on monday I feel like a bit of wanker Gear Notes: Used: 2 pickets 2 screws (17cm) 1 cam (#1 WC I think) 1 nut (#2 or #3 BD) Also took but didn't need. 4 small-med nuts 2 small-med cams 2 pins A stubby ice screw might have been nice as well. Approach Notes: At an easy pace 2 hrs to the Thumbtack and 3 to the base of the climb is reasonable. Completely packed down, no flotation was necessary, though we were punching through crust and into the sugar on the downclimb/glissade just above Thumbtack

which are of course way more impressive in their combined 200 ft than say any of the summits in the Fitz Roy group. Applesauce, meet orange juice. My point exactly. The boys got brass balls, which are much harder to come by then iron fore-arms.

Isn't the route just right of Endless the short 10d dihedral? It's certainly stiff but I don't think it's a 12 either!

How do AT boots hike/climb? (Denali XT's to be specific). I'm heading up to Chair peak this weekend and wondering if I can get away with just taking these or if I should just rent a set of plastics instead? Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

Anyone up for this afternoon, say 3:00 at the Issaquah P&R? It might very well be the first "dry" Dry-tooling night! A perfect afternoon for leading!

no, i'm booked wed and thurs night Then doing an Av 1 course over the weekend. Maybe next week though?

I can do the downhill part reasonably well, and my bindings have reasonably good heel lifters so that should be ok. I guess that makes the decision easy! Time to go buy skins!

Is it as easy at seems like it should be? I'm looking at trying to do an overnight trip and have the choice between skis/skins (though I still need to buy and trim the skins) or slowshoes. I'd rather skin but I've never done it before, and would have to screw around too much on the fly. Any thoughts or advice?

In an evenly matched game small factors have large consequences. The Hawks definitely dropped some passes and didn't always capitalize when they should have. That said the Steelers were f-ing pathetic. All game it seemed they had a grand total of about 3 effective plays and a handful of moderately successful ones. Left on their own it would have been a tight game. As it was the Ref's persistantly called the Hawks tight and the Steelers loose which is B.S. You want to call both sides incredibly tight, that's fine but it also wasn't the case. If any one of the about 3 different calls against the Hawks had gone the other way it may have significantly changed the game. That and how many holds did you see the Steelers get away with? I wonder how that would have affected the game. The Steelers sucked eggs up and down the field and pulled a 3 miracles out of their nether regions. The Hawks moved the ball consistantly and effectively, but lacked any miracles. In this game the trophy should really go to the Ref's. Not only did the play nice and dirty they didn't get penalized for it at all and completel dominated the game. Iv'e usually got a soft spot for the Ref's and don't think they usually deserve the abuse that get's heaped on them. These guys deserve it though.

Then do your best not to run screaming from the establishment! That said! Welcome! This area simply kicks ass for climbing. Might also watch for the various Smith/Leavenworth/Local BBQ/Sausage fests that go on! Should be no reason not to dig up climbing partners around here.

which are of course way more impressive in their combined 200 ft than say any of the summits in the Fitz Roy group.

Which would be ok solution as well.

No progress towards forming an independant state whatsoever. linky linky It's certainly coming closer than the yom kippur war. Though this may not actually fullfill the indifada, having an independant state run by palestinians, and not being actively supressed by the Israeli's should do a good job drying up the supply of individuals willing to blow themselves up.

If I wrote an exam everyone could ace it would be grade inflation

No, still teaching. Have a class of 2 students at Seattle U. lots of fun! and the first 5 weeks of a class at UW, with 150 students Teaching and office hours are fun but 150 exams sucks! Still working on the real job but getting awfully close to a couple!

Damnit! I'm bored again. Grading 150 exams sucks ass!

Keep digging boy. I just finished my PhD, and am expecting a job offer in the next few days, which is actually sooner than i'd like since i've got some other irons in the fire. Looks like i'll be managing folks like you Oh, and I'm married so i've got dates whenever I'd like. And she's a hot climber chick who supports my ever increasing insanity

Wait a minute. I thought the beginning of the end for the Palestines was when they're country was given away? But i'm sure that had nothing to do with it. They should have simply rolled over and said, here you go, we didn't really need it anyway. Now can you please govern us fairly, and you know maybe in 50 years gives us a tiny chunk, we'd really appreciate that. Just ask the american indians how well diplomacy worked while they were being taken over and funneled onto reservations. Yeah - because unceasing millitary conflict against an opponent with a staggering millitary superiority, that was increasing with every passing year, would have definitely worked for them in the end. In the case of the Palestinians, do a bit of digging and take a look at every measure of prosperity and well-being that you can find on the Palestinians pre-and post-Intifada. I don't think their decline since the onset of the Intifada is a coincidence, but I'll leave you to make your own judgement. were getting into a chicken egg problem. If they're country hadn't been summarily given away there would be no need for the intifada. And with a goal of gaining and independant country, I somehow doubt political pressure would have been effective. The intifada may have caused a significant decrease in their standards of living, but they are (or at least were) moving in the direction of forming an independant state once again. Without the threat of violece they have absolutely no leverage over Israel. I don't really condone violence in any form except as an absolute last resort solution to an untennable solution. Though from their perspective. Once you've been invaded, that could easily seem untennable and last resort. Except in this case the egg was hatched 40 years before the onset of the Intifadah, after Israel decimated every Army that had attacked them numerous times, and it should have been clear that using force was a doomed excerise in futility. The fact that they got "understanding" and "sympathy" in exchange for suicide bombings only accelerated their ruin. With friends like the Palestinians have in the West... Guerilla warfare and terrorism have nothing to do with military might or how effective Israel has been at defending itself from outside attack. Once external force options failed, then I imagine that is when the intifada probably really took off. And increased repression in response to their attacks only breeds suicide bombers faster, the vehicle for terrorism has never been overwhelming victory, but to create a state so repressive that it's own citizens revolt. The only solutions are either A) kill all, and I do mean ALL of the Palestinians or B) recognize that they're will be an ongoing threat and start working towards a tenable compromise.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and guess some combination of a lab coat, safety glasses, hard hat, pocket protector, pager, palm, etc etc the answer is no, no, no,no, no, no, no, no, no. And only 28 I turned 27 just last Dec.. OLD FOGIE Hey I need an intern this summer... got any plans Yeah, but I've had my MS since since 2001 bitch Intern! lmao, I've hired people older than you

Wait a minute. I thought the beginning of the end for the Palestines was when they're country was given away? But i'm sure that had nothing to do with it. They should have simply rolled over and said, here you go, we didn't really need it anyway. Now can you please govern us fairly, and you know maybe in 50 years gives us a tiny chunk, we'd really appreciate that. Just ask the american indians how well diplomacy worked while they were being taken over and funneled onto reservations. Yeah - because unceasing millitary conflict against an opponent with a staggering millitary superiority, that was increasing with every passing year, would have definitely worked for them in the end. In the case of the Palestinians, do a bit of digging and take a look at every measure of prosperity and well-being that you can find on the Palestinians pre-and post-Intifada. I don't think their decline since the onset of the Intifada is a coincidence, but I'll leave you to make your own judgement. were getting into a chicken egg problem. If they're country hadn't been summarily given away there would be no need for the intifada. And with a goal of gaining and independant country, I somehow doubt political pressure would have been effective. The intifada may have caused a significant decrease in their standards of living, but they are (or at least were) moving in the direction of forming an independant state once again. Without the threat of violece they have absolutely no leverage over Israel. I don't really condone violence in any form except as an absolute last resort solution to an untennable solution. Though from their perspective. Once you've been invaded, that could easily seem untennable and last resort.