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Everything posted by selkirk
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Thank god not all of you. Of course some are much worse!
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i think climbing can act as an amplifier for the state of a relationship, good or bad. there's also: "Why are you going climbing w/ your buds but not climbing w/ me?" "Is it because I'm not good enough?" "Is it because you don't love me?" and "Why do you get to go climbing when I have to stay home to take care of [house/kids/dog/whatever]" and "When I'm sick you should stay home with me and take care of me instead of going climbing" ... shit, that sounds worse than marriage. Certainly worse than mine You don't have to lead utterly seperate lives, or have different circles of friends etc., but you do need the flexibility and support to get out when the SO can't, or pursue your own activities/objectives.
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Climbing w/ S.O. Climbing w/ S.O. when your objectives don't match :tdown: :tdown:
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Hey, just because I'm anti-social doesn't mean I'm a duck!
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Stick around, we'll fix that
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Here, here. Though Mrs. Selkirk has been doing both lately I think it's a well disguised plot not to have to walk wonder dog in the dark when it's raining though
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Haven't witnessed that per say, but a sports bra and shorts doesn't qualify as clothed while frying either God I felt sorry for her!
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Word. It happened to this lil-ass, too Yeah, but you deserved it
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Accidentally did that to a buddy on the last pitch of Zebra-Zion down at Smith There's a fixed WC nut up there he spent a good 10 min beating at, while hanging on one arm Personal cam ratio is only at +1, but the cam was only about 6 months old Found a "fixed" ultralight TCU about 6 months after they had been released. What I really want to know is how many cam's and hexes are behind the flake on Givler's crack?
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I think most people agree the alien design was a great success. Implementation is a different story.
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Yep, they're doing a pretty good job of that on their own. Personally can't wait to test drive a couple of the new springy twitchy's. Metolius stuff and if they're the quality level of the TCU's with more placement flexibility they'll be stellar.
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Knee Pain Questions for the Doc
selkirk replied to Weekend_Climberz's topic in Fitness and Nutrition Forum
Is your current doc an athlete/sports med specialist or a general doc? If not I wouldn't but much stock in his opinion on this. Most family practice/general med docs aren't used to dealing with athletes and people who are dedicated to staying in, or getting back into good condition. They also don't see that many joint injuries and/or people who actually want to use the joint hard and soon. Remember, the majority of people they see are "average" and in this country that is not particularly active. Just because your in good shape or strong doesn't mean PT won't help. I've got a buddy who leg press 600+ lbs, but has horrendous knee instability due to lack of a balanced musculature. I used to get sever pain going down hill at the end of the, and finally talked to a sports med guy. His diagnosis was a muscle imbalance in my knee, with the outer quad much stronger than the VMO (inner leg above the knee), so when I fatigued, my VMO fatigued first, then my outer quad would pull my knee cap out of alignment and result in joint pain. Treatment was lots of time on the exercise bike and some additional stuff to build up the VMO, but it got better relatively quickly. Definitely go talk to a specialist!! And don't talk cortisone or surgery until after you've given PT a serious go. Cortisone seems like it should be reserved as a last ditch thing, and eventually causes long term problems, and surgery is good for tears, but won't fix imbalances. -
Good for you You're the first now. But I'm still not willing to risk the consequences of failure while soloing.
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:lmao: :lmao: Are you new here?
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Grow some of your own veggies. Buy the rest at produce stands. Buy meat in bulk directly from the farmer. Shop at TJ's. Make your own bread. Quit drinking. Avoid processed foods. You've just cut your food bill to a quarter of what it was. Yes but you've cut your disposable time in half, as always it's a tradeoff. Mrs. Selkirk and I are better off, but through no help from the economy/government. Getting out of grad school and getting a good private sector job made all the difference. Pretty easy to double your income from a grad school pittance
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To me the primary challenge in climbing has always been mental. I'm not a big fan of top-roping as for me it removes the mental aspect almost completely since there are absolutely no consequences to falling. The physical part is secondary. While bolts certainly mitigate the consequences, the biggest challenge is still the mental aspect of controlling your reactions when there is fall potential (even if the actual danger minimal, is much less than the perceived.) Free solo-ing certainly ups the anti, and I can respect those who do it, but I have yet to meet any old climbers who still free solo. The risk/reward balance to me doesn't equate so well when the risk of a mistake is effectively infinite. It seems like a very dangerous game for young men with large ego's and perceptions of invincibility, and I don't think I've ever been afflicted with that. As a side note the vast majority of climbing I do on lead, and tend to prefer trad to sport and sport to TR-ing. So while I appreciate the bolts and have enjoyed leading Hindquarters, I also think cracks are inviolate. As memory serves there is some gear to be hand on Hindquarters so I'd probably be in support of pulling some of the bolts. But having only free-solo and TR as the only options isn't attractive to me.
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What were the fall factors like?
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Might be kind of silly to those of you with lots of ice experience. For me it's proving rather useful as I'd like to learn how not to kill myself
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So what are peoples thoughts on using Screamers with Ice Screws, and about ice hooks?
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I led Dogleg clean first and got worked trying Hindquarters when I was done. (in fact I think Dogleg was my first 5.8 gear lead). Bolts to beat your chest with? Somehow I don't think so. It's a fun little route but certainly nothing to brag about. And crowding? I've led it concurrently with people on Dogleg and never had an issue with crowding. It's also the only sport route there so I really doubt any sport-only climbers are ever going to get on it. The only people I've ever seen on it had just finished Dogleg. I'd also much rather see it bolted and leadable then relegated to top roping (IMHO it's always better to lead) or free soloing (IMHO this isn't the brightest of activities).
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The bolted thing next to Dogleg is actually a pretty good climb, once you figure out the secret handshake . Worth a quick run if your over doing Dogleg or the others on Alphabet already.
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Mrs. Selkirk's died in the wool Southern Idaho republican parents would vote for Obama before they would vote for McCain.
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Most people really shouldn't be allowed to drive. Especially young asian women driving large SUV's They scare me! For that matter, anyone under 30 shouldn't be allowed to drive either. freakin menace's
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It's good the someone is And they do seem to enjoy it so
