selkirk

Accidentally did that to a buddy on the last pitch of Zebra-Zion down at Smith There's a fixed WC nut up there he spent a good 10 min beating at, while hanging on one arm Personal cam ratio is only at +1, but the cam was only about 6 months old Found a "fixed" ultralight TCU about 6 months after they had been released. What I really want to know is how many cam's and hexes are behind the flake on Givler's crack?

I think most people agree the alien design was a great success. Implementation is a different story.

Yep, they're doing a pretty good job of that on their own. Personally can't wait to test drive a couple of the new springy twitchy's. Metolius stuff and if they're the quality level of the TCU's with more placement flexibility they'll be stellar.

Is your current doc an athlete/sports med specialist or a general doc? If not I wouldn't but much stock in his opinion on this. Most family practice/general med docs aren't used to dealing with athletes and people who are dedicated to staying in, or getting back into good condition. They also don't see that many joint injuries and/or people who actually want to use the joint hard and soon. Remember, the majority of people they see are "average" and in this country that is not particularly active. Just because your in good shape or strong doesn't mean PT won't help. I've got a buddy who leg press 600+ lbs, but has horrendous knee instability due to lack of a balanced musculature. I used to get sever pain going down hill at the end of the, and finally talked to a sports med guy. His diagnosis was a muscle imbalance in my knee, with the outer quad much stronger than the VMO (inner leg above the knee), so when I fatigued, my VMO fatigued first, then my outer quad would pull my knee cap out of alignment and result in joint pain. Treatment was lots of time on the exercise bike and some additional stuff to build up the VMO, but it got better relatively quickly. Definitely go talk to a specialist!! And don't talk cortisone or surgery until after you've given PT a serious go. Cortisone seems like it should be reserved as a last ditch thing, and eventually causes long term problems, and surgery is good for tears, but won't fix imbalances.

Good for you You're the first now. But I'm still not willing to risk the consequences of failure while soloing.

:lmao: :lmao: Are you new here?

Grow some of your own veggies. Buy the rest at produce stands. Buy meat in bulk directly from the farmer. Shop at TJ's. Make your own bread. Quit drinking. Avoid processed foods. You've just cut your food bill to a quarter of what it was. Yes but you've cut your disposable time in half, as always it's a tradeoff. Mrs. Selkirk and I are better off, but through no help from the economy/government. Getting out of grad school and getting a good private sector job made all the difference. Pretty easy to double your income from a grad school pittance

To me the primary challenge in climbing has always been mental. I'm not a big fan of top-roping as for me it removes the mental aspect almost completely since there are absolutely no consequences to falling. The physical part is secondary. While bolts certainly mitigate the consequences, the biggest challenge is still the mental aspect of controlling your reactions when there is fall potential (even if the actual danger minimal, is much less than the perceived.) Free solo-ing certainly ups the anti, and I can respect those who do it, but I have yet to meet any old climbers who still free solo. The risk/reward balance to me doesn't equate so well when the risk of a mistake is effectively infinite. It seems like a very dangerous game for young men with large ego's and perceptions of invincibility, and I don't think I've ever been afflicted with that. As a side note the vast majority of climbing I do on lead, and tend to prefer trad to sport and sport to TR-ing. So while I appreciate the bolts and have enjoyed leading Hindquarters, I also think cracks are inviolate. As memory serves there is some gear to be hand on Hindquarters so I'd probably be in support of pulling some of the bolts. But having only free-solo and TR as the only options isn't attractive to me.

What were the fall factors like?

Might be kind of silly to those of you with lots of ice experience. For me it's proving rather useful as I'd like to learn how not to kill myself

So what are peoples thoughts on using Screamers with Ice Screws, and about ice hooks?

I led Dogleg clean first and got worked trying Hindquarters when I was done. (in fact I think Dogleg was my first 5.8 gear lead). Bolts to beat your chest with? Somehow I don't think so. It's a fun little route but certainly nothing to brag about. And crowding? I've led it concurrently with people on Dogleg and never had an issue with crowding. It's also the only sport route there so I really doubt any sport-only climbers are ever going to get on it. The only people I've ever seen on it had just finished Dogleg. I'd also much rather see it bolted and leadable then relegated to top roping (IMHO it's always better to lead) or free soloing (IMHO this isn't the brightest of activities).

The bolted thing next to Dogleg is actually a pretty good climb, once you figure out the secret handshake . Worth a quick run if your over doing Dogleg or the others on Alphabet already.

mmmmmmmm

Mrs. Selkirk's died in the wool Southern Idaho republican parents would vote for Obama before they would vote for McCain.

Most people really shouldn't be allowed to drive. Especially young asian women driving large SUV's They scare me! For that matter, anyone under 30 shouldn't be allowed to drive either. freakin menace's

It's good the someone is And they do seem to enjoy it so

Not to mention that he just expressed skiing stoke

Yeah that sucks - kind of like dyed-in-the-wool Dem's voting in the R's primary. STFU, hypocrite, you've got nothing to be outraged about. My parents used to do that in North Idaho. Of course all elections were actually decided in the Rep. primaries since no democrat was ever elected to anything.

Even during high summer Royal Columns is in the shade all morning so it would make for a chilly start!

Wonder if there's a way to toprope some of the trickier bits? Only if you have a ropegun

Nuts are just about the best gear you can buy though. Once your used to them they are just as fast to place as a cam, easier to inspect, and if you give them a good jerk set then the pretty much never walk or wiggle on you. I always care a full set, and and on hard thin stuff you usually go for an extra half set or even a full second set. I'd have to agree with Kbone on the hexes, great for moderate stuff. That said there are about 3 that always always make it onto my rack, even for the hard stuff (yelow, red and purple WC curve hexes). If your climbing at Tieton take all the hexes you can find. The cracks there seem very very hex friendly, and not qutie so cam friendly. Tri-cams (and hexes) are the shiz for moderate to easy alpine. I usually just swap out my few largest nuts for the 3 or 4 smallest tri-cams. But I always want a good stance to place them from so I can fiddle.

Congrats! and after watching the little sis go through med school my condolences!

The photo was not at all lewd or suggestive. She was sitting on column top and smiling at the camera. It looked like every other cragging photo anyone has ever taken in early season at Vantage and she was showing much much much less skin than will be on display in another month.

You went climbing this weekend! No fair!