selkirk

Ever notice that the new small Zero cam's, or the Splitter Gear cam's from a couple of years ago, come from the factory without teeth? As I understand it teeth mostly make people feel warm and fuzzy, and I guess could concievable make them sit better around crystals, but the holding power has nothing to do with the teeth.

Is the wall going to be indoors or outdoors?

TMI Tipping dangerously close to spray, here, fellas... Please respect the OP's request. Thank you, and we now return to your regularly scheduled program. Rob's not too far off: at least the one is well worth mentioning. Wet wipes--moist towelettes--or better yet, Baby Wipes, are a high-demand commodity at populous base camps, such as on the Ruth, in Patagonia, and on Everest (only not this year on E ). Friend of mine brought several cases to Nepal and was able to trade them up for single malt, among other things. Fortunately, few climbers need body glide, and I don't think I'd want to climb with any that do. Good thread. Why haven't we yet seen any tips/tricks for removing stubborn booty? I thought that's what single malt was for? Only trick I have is patience, though small gentle circular motions seem to work. Hard pulls only serve to set it and change the orientation making it even tougher to get out. The only pieces I've lost (nuts) worked themselves into some where I couldn't get at them with a nut tool. Here's a pretty common one but I haven't heard it mentioned. When lowering and cleaning on an overhanging route clip quickdraw to your belay loop and the other line (running up through your gear). Makes it easier to clean on lower.

So Mrs. Selkirk and I just killed off the bottle of Dalwhinnie :) Very tasty stuff! Any suggestions for the next Whiskey? Contemplating the Black Bush Archie mentioned, but very open to suggestions

Stay the hell away from static ropes unless you really know what your doing! Short (3ft) falls on static rope can generate some really large force. Just a bad idea until your sure you need one. If you really want 1 rope, I'd say go 9.8mm, bi-color/pattern, 50 or 60m, dry. It'll hold up for top roping just fine, and won't be quite as heavy as 10.2 or 10.5 And no need to worry about a crevasse fall breaking the rope. Single Ropes are designed for leader falls onto carabiners which generate much higher forces than crevasse falls. That's why lots of people use 8mm ropes for glacier travel, you just don't need the strength of 9.5 or larger single rope to stop a crevasse fall or set up a pulley system.

We always had cats and dogs. When my dad got the Jack Russell's our old, fat, diabetic, grey cat used to sit on the coffee table with her paw cocked, waiting for them to go by and smack them for the fun of it. She was definitely the matriarch of the hosue. We also had a little tiny cat that used to chase dogs (she'd sit on the front porch and wait for them to come into range.) Though one of the funnier things was the sheepdog and the little calico we had. They'd actually sleep together. But when the cat got cabin fever in the winter she thought it was fun to run over the sleeping dogs nose a full speed to get the dog to chase her One thing to remember about cats, is that if you get the dog as a puppy, they learn pretty fast that cat's have sharp thing on the end of their feet. I think the danger is introducing high prey drive dogs (husky's, sounds like akita's) to cat's when the dogs are already adults. Also a lot of the herding dogs have the chase/heard instinct, but don't have the prey drive, so all they do is the chase part. Oh, and dog's love cat food!!

One way to think about it is that Your Falling Energy = Potential (PE: how high you are) + Kinetic ( KE: how fast your moving and how fat you are). Your total energy = constant while your falling. As you fall PE goes down and KE goes up. Energy = Force * Distance Once the screamers activates it keeps force constant at 500lbs (? or whatever) over the length of the extension. So the Energy Absorbed = 500 lbs * Extension (say 18 inches?) Your rope acts in a similar fashion by absorbing energy as a spring Energy = force * distance So long as things stay dynamic and the rope/screamer are extending while providing resistance the force transmitted to the gear isn't so bad (500lbs). Once you run out of extension, and your screamer goes static, and your stretch is eaten up, then you start to get big force as there is still energy to absorb, but it has to be absorbed by a very small extension. Screamers help for the same reason that static runner/static ropes generate high forces. (Static = little stretch = very little distance, so for a fixed amount of energy, this drives the force component up to disipate the same amount of energy.) In the limit of a pure static (no stretch at all) fall you'd theoretically generate infinite forces. Can anybody guess my profession now :p

I was roped up for the first time at 5, and started hoisting haul bags (my younger sister) with the bear pulley systems in the rain forest about 6. How I didn't become an aid climber I'll never know.

You'll make someone a good better half

In most stereotypes theres a grain of truth. As for the dating guys without money, didn't you mention you had been dating climbers lately?

That's because men pay for it in one way or another, it's either dinners and movies or cash withdrawls, either way there's a paper trail. So many men have been conditioned to believe and repeat this empty bullshit. How could anyone hate themselves enough to think that a woman would only sleep with him because "he pays for it". Why would a man chose to not understand that there are women who actually have sex with the man she is with simply because she loves him? I never said love wasn't involved in the diner/movie option. But most men I know still consider it the appropriate/ chivalrous/ romantic thing to do is pay for diner and/or the movie. It's nothing so cynical as buying the outcome at the end of the date, but it leaves a papetrail none the less. I would also consider it appropriate/chivalrous for whomever makes more to offer to pay, but until payscales become truly gender neutral that still weights things toward the guy paying. Upcoming gross generalization not applicable to the highly educated and/or climbers.... I always thought that for a lot of folks the standard was guys pay for dinner/dates, girls pay for dresses/make-up to make themselves attractive to the guys..... if your into the whole frat boy/sorrority girl mind set.

When I was 2, I guess I used to chase our dog around with a wiffle ball bat. It's a damn good think he was tolerant!

Blue nail polish Pink is for girls Though I actually use Pink and/or Red to mark retired gear and/or bail biners (I always use a bail biner for my chalk bag). Cams get marked on the inside lobes, hexes inside, biners on the spine over the raised/depressed letering (the nail polish stays in the grooves better), and nuts on the top underneath the wire. I've gotten in the habit of every spring just taking a rainy day and doing a gear inventory, updating all gear marks, cleaning and lubing cams, retiring old runner etc. etc. It's a good way to get the climbing stoke on the for the season

I'm starting to think lots of dogs get the label "velcro" dogs. Cattle dogs, do the same thing, they never really want to be more than a few feet away. There have been more than a few times wonder dog lays down on my feet while doing the dishes.

Dirtbag climbing is probably a much more attractive option than dirtbag hookers.

If you find crotch sniffing, and rolling on their backs to have their bellies scratched intimidating. I'll second petfinder though That's how we found wonder dog I've had a couple of different herding dogs, Growing up we had sheepdog/german Shepard/golden retriever mix, or she might have been a bearded collie, who was the smartest dog I've ever met, and in my eyes a perfect guard dog. Not actually aggressive, just a little shy/skittish if anything, but mostly around men she didn't know. Whenever anyone came to the house that she didn't recognize she'd just start barking big and loud, and she was big enough to look intimidating even though she'd never hurt a fly. In fact if anything was out of place or seemed odd, she'd bark like mad. Mrs. Selkirk and I also just got a rescue female Australian Cattle Dog (might be a mix but we can't tell) who's also fantastic. Bright, focused, has ignored the cats she's been in the house with, though has shown some desire to chase outside (though no real prey instinct just the chase part likely from the herding background). And she responds the same way about the house, loud, and she puts on a pretty good aggressive face. If someone pushed her she might get aggressive, and every now and again she'll snap at people she doesn't know if she feels threatened (usually men she doesn't know, especially if they're looming/trying to pet the top of her head). She's a real stickler for "doggie protocol" on how to meet. But some of her issues are rescue dog issues (we think she may have been abused a bit, and she spent several months in the pound). She's settling down and turning into a fantastic dog though And she may not be big, but I think the breed carries a fiesty streak. I've seen her play/wrestle/occasionaly scuffle with Dobermans and labs in the 100lb range. However.... With ANY of the herding type dogs be prepared for a lot of work. Tasha (the sheepdog) got 2 or 3, 20+ minute walks a day. Tellie get's walked every morning rain or shine for 20 or 30 minutes, at least 15 or 20 minutes of training at home, another 30+ min walk/off leash play session with other dogs in the evening, and is very busy the rest of the time were home playing fetch with various toys. On the up side, she's good by herself all day while were at work, and very sensitive to how people are feeling (if either of us is feeling sick or Mrs. Selkirk has a migraine, Tellie just wants to curl up on the bed with you all day). She's also a very nice size for us (~45 lbs) Big enough to stick up for herself, go hiking/backpacking etc, but small enough that in a pinch I could carry her ass out of somewhere.

I'm sure glad I didn't check this thread during lunch! Bunch a sickos

I would argue that many women are coerced into prostitution and legalization will not change this fact - and not even improve the situation (it could make it worse). It is as if no one has noticed that when you ask a gal of any age what she wants to be when she grows up, she NEVER says, "a whore". Someone claimed that marriage is an institution whose aim is to control women and their "reproductive" rights (i.e. their bodies). I'd argue that prostitution is an even older institution with that exact same goal. Control women and their reproductive rights, or attempt to control men and their reproductive consequences?

Very interesting, Rob. And I agree. I don't believe in marriage - it's a faulty institution with unrealistic expectations - and people get married for mostly the wrong reasons. Marriage was begun as a way for the church to assert reproductive control. There's about 1 in 10 marriages of people I know that make me want to ever be married. The other 9 in 10 make me SOOOOO happy to be single. And I've never had a guy NOT cheat on me! Probably why we both have such strong opinions here. jeebus, you people have a rough time choosing other halfs. And when you boil it down, the problem with most people and most marriages is that a lot of people plain suck.

That's because men pay for it in one way or another, it's either dinners and movies or cash withdrawls, either way there's a paper trail.

What does morning have to do with anything?

you people and your silly justifications! Just sack up and tuck in!

But we do now have the S.L.U.T. to be proud of.

We find that part just fine

If men had vagina's we'd never leave the house