KaskadskyjKozak

When I climbed the route a few years ago we did it in 2 days and the 2nd day was a death march at the end. I recall the time breakdown being something like 12 hours camp to summit to camp, then 5 hours from camp to cars.

Nice one Nelson! You should have brought a tin of SPAM, however ;-)

Trip: Jack Mountain - South Face Date: 9/1/2013 Trip Report: Several friends accompanied me to the Pasayten this weekend to climb Jack Mountain. We approached via the Crater Mountain trail to Jerry Lakes on Saturday, climbed Jack on Sunday and returned to camp a second night at Jerry Lakes before heading out Monday. Our approach and deproach avoided the glacier completely. Because we were a large party, we were a bit worried about managing the loose rock (yet alone climbing near other parties). As it turned out a party of 4 was also up there this weekend, but everything worked out with both parties summitting within an hour of oneother. The rock fall was not any worse than an other similar cascade route and we only had one scary moment where one of our climbers grabbed and let loose a porta-hold on the class 4 section. Fortunately, she did not lose her balance (or nerve). The rap anchor we found and used on the way down was a bit sketch - nobody got warm fuzzies fro it. Some pics with captions follow below. The team's first view of the objective from the end of the Crater Mountain trail: Ascending scree and talus below trail's end: View back shortly after leaving camp on summit day: Sun appears on summit day: Class 4 step: Class 3 scrambling on the S Face: Ascending the summit block: Summit p0rn. Ross Lake, Redoubt, Mox Peaks, etc visible in the background: KK on the summit. Nohokomeen glacier in the background: View down the Crater Creek drainage below Jack's S Face: Descending from the summit: Rappeling the 4th class section: Traversing back below the S Face: Morning clouds provide for more enjoyment on the way out: Passing the proglacial lake below Jerry Glacier on the way out: View back to Jack mountain from trail's end. The proglacial lake below the Jerry Glacier is clearly visible: Views South on the descent: Panorama of N Cascades glory from the Crater Mountain trail: A great trip to a remote mountain - worth doing exactly once! Gear Notes: Helmet, 30m rope for one rappel, ice axe and crampons.

I guess there are no more tweakers breaking into cars at THs, so the rangers need something to do...

fucking bullshit above ground electrical wires are to blame

Hey clownpuncher this is climber's site fucktrad jizslurper! Yur mom?

Can we bitch about the weather now?

I enjoyed the Thunder Creek approach to Primus earlier this year. Such a great way to sneak into the back door of that area. Yes, it's steep as all fuck, but not really a bad climber's trail in the end.

ggk found something to get his panties in a bunch over. weird.

Release the Krak(en)!

"That's one dirty butthole" but the crack above the butthole you can sew up nice. It's the only real place where you have to use finger jams..." Hopefully just the pinky

"Classic pleasant climbs with good clean lines and good pro are wonderful but there is something compelling about hideous gnarly choss piles that scream extreme alpine adventure." This statement warms my heart so :-)

Good question. Hopefully, though, someone prevents YOU from doing so, Gaucho. ;-)

Beats shorts over polypro any day.

13 and 11. The 11-year-old is a natural and will be crushing me soon enough

Thanks for sharing... I hope the boys appreciate these experiences for years to come!

Trip: Seven Fingered Jack (7FJ) - SW Slope Date: 8/18/2013 Trip Report: I took my two younger sons backpacking this weekend to Leroy Basin. My youngest also accompanied me up to tag the summit of 7FJ via the standard talus/scree-slog. My friend PG met us at camp separately and joined us for the climb and descent before motoring out early for home. The hike in: The boys before the hike out. Nice view of the objective (and snow melt): Scrambling talus and scree in the early morning: The infamous, ominous 7FJ-Maude col: Close-up of the N side traverse from the col: Summit shots: N Face of Maude: My boy scrambling down talus. Warms the heart! Glacier Peak still looking snowy from the E: The contrasting colors were awesome this weekend. Shot down to Leroy Basin from high on 7FJ: Glacier Peak and surrounding environs: Gear Notes: Helmet. Approach Notes: Lots of black flies.

Cool! And glad to see you enjoyed the gully and felt it was not so bad :-)

Some ice is exposed on the Redoubt gl already below Redoubt and at the nose by the slabs where you first gain the glacier. You can easily walk up these sections with crampons. I would guess you'd be OK in a few weeks and say the trip is worth a go.

A shit-ton-of-class 4 and no helicopter calls. Props! :-)

There's a balance between "going for it" and trying to expand what you have done, and being conservative and developing more slowly. NE ridge of Black is a pretty logical step up from something like Liberty/Beckey or E ridge of Ingalls.

The thunderstorms in the area most likely caused the one party to descend rather than wait on the summit. Probably didn't know anything was really wrong (other than a slow moving team) until it was late and getting dark. They may have been too tired and didn't want to take on further risk by climbing in the night. Personally, I wouldn't really want to be climbing a loose-ish route in the dark if I was tired and relatively new to alpine climbing. Easy to armchair quarterback though. At least nobody was hurt and valuable lessons learned, I'm sure. I didn't mean to suggest to go up in the dark, but the next morning. I don't agree about the armchair quarterback comment. I think it's worth talking/thinking about alternatives to handling a situation. Next time you, I or someone are in one, maybe that prior thought/discussion might trigger a memory and a good response to the situation. One theme in ANAM reports are rescues involving parties that separate. It's easy to separate when two rope teams are on a route for sure, and worth trying not to let that happen.

I wonder why the party that summitted did not go back up themselves to see what was up? Maybe borrowing some food from folks at Wing Lake so they'd have the energy they needed to get up there???

I'm really motivated to climb J-berg now... :-/