KaskadskyjKozak

Wacky. You might like it. [video:youtube]icEHA2DGFCk

You betcha! "You betcha"? She didn't even finish her term yet alone need a limit...

My partner and I simul'd on all but the crux pitch using a 60 m skinny folded in half.

Although I will not be making a return trip to Jack Mountain, I definitely will be returning to the Pasayten.

We experienced nothing like what you described below. We had a 40' rap to mellow terrain. "We got the rope ready and put it though the rappel ring, my biggest worry came true. It didn't reach. Looking down I dreaded the idea of having to get off the rope and down climb the last section. I knew that if there was anyone to go down first, it would have to be me. Looking around I said aloud "there's gotta be another way". We both knew there wasn't. This was the only way down. The rappel position was the worst I've ever seen. The people who put up the webbing couldn't have done much to fix this. With the slightest tug the webbing moved which worried me. We secured it on as best as we could. I said a prayer and got on with the rappel. To start out I had to go over to the right where there was a minor ledge. With one hand I held on to the brake and the other I held the rock. I had to traverse more towards the webbing to get it in motion. But as I got closer it became increasingly more over hang like. My arms were exhausted from the climbing and were starting to give way. I could not figure out a safe position to get to."

Yes I read your TR - you must have been off route. The class 4 step was blocky and only 40 feet long. The rappel off of it was onto a mellow ramp which we downclimbed (class 3)

Thanks Nelson. There was indeed some loose rock. I'm training for J-Berg next year. Wanna come with? :-)

Undoubtedly Nelson slaughtered the goat with a multi-tool, drank the blood directly from it's carotid artery, then consumed the liver raw, before butchering the beast and grilling it in the traditional Argentinian manner...

Well done (on all counts)!! Molodtsy!

When I climbed the route a few years ago we did it in 2 days and the 2nd day was a death march at the end. I recall the time breakdown being something like 12 hours camp to summit to camp, then 5 hours from camp to cars.

Nice one Nelson! You should have brought a tin of SPAM, however ;-)

Trip: Jack Mountain - South Face Date: 9/1/2013 Trip Report: Several friends accompanied me to the Pasayten this weekend to climb Jack Mountain. We approached via the Crater Mountain trail to Jerry Lakes on Saturday, climbed Jack on Sunday and returned to camp a second night at Jerry Lakes before heading out Monday. Our approach and deproach avoided the glacier completely. Because we were a large party, we were a bit worried about managing the loose rock (yet alone climbing near other parties). As it turned out a party of 4 was also up there this weekend, but everything worked out with both parties summitting within an hour of oneother. The rock fall was not any worse than an other similar cascade route and we only had one scary moment where one of our climbers grabbed and let loose a porta-hold on the class 4 section. Fortunately, she did not lose her balance (or nerve). The rap anchor we found and used on the way down was a bit sketch - nobody got warm fuzzies fro it. Some pics with captions follow below. The team's first view of the objective from the end of the Crater Mountain trail: Ascending scree and talus below trail's end: View back shortly after leaving camp on summit day: Sun appears on summit day: Class 4 step: Class 3 scrambling on the S Face: Ascending the summit block: Summit p0rn. Ross Lake, Redoubt, Mox Peaks, etc visible in the background: KK on the summit. Nohokomeen glacier in the background: View down the Crater Creek drainage below Jack's S Face: Descending from the summit: Rappeling the 4th class section: Traversing back below the S Face: Morning clouds provide for more enjoyment on the way out: Passing the proglacial lake below Jerry Glacier on the way out: View back to Jack mountain from trail's end. The proglacial lake below the Jerry Glacier is clearly visible: Views South on the descent: Panorama of N Cascades glory from the Crater Mountain trail: A great trip to a remote mountain - worth doing exactly once! Gear Notes: Helmet, 30m rope for one rappel, ice axe and crampons.

I guess there are no more tweakers breaking into cars at THs, so the rangers need something to do...

fucking bullshit above ground electrical wires are to blame

Hey clownpuncher this is climber's site fucktrad jizslurper! Yur mom?

Can we bitch about the weather now?

I enjoyed the Thunder Creek approach to Primus earlier this year. Such a great way to sneak into the back door of that area. Yes, it's steep as all fuck, but not really a bad climber's trail in the end.

ggk found something to get his panties in a bunch over. weird.

Release the Krak(en)!

"That's one dirty butthole" but the crack above the butthole you can sew up nice. It's the only real place where you have to use finger jams..." Hopefully just the pinky

"Classic pleasant climbs with good clean lines and good pro are wonderful but there is something compelling about hideous gnarly choss piles that scream extreme alpine adventure." This statement warms my heart so :-)

Good question. Hopefully, though, someone prevents YOU from doing so, Gaucho. ;-)

Beats shorts over polypro any day.

13 and 11. The 11-year-old is a natural and will be crushing me soon enough