KaskadskyjKozak

The low 5th is probably about 50m. It's in the 5.0 to 5.4 range - I can't say exactly. I wouldn't do it unroped. If you had a 30 m you might have to set up a hanging belay, but I think I passed a couple spots where you could stand comfortably on the belay. The problem would be the rappel. It is a double rope rap. You'd need to leave some gear or find a chock stone for a double part way down. Or you could down climb it and set gear and clean it. You don't need the rope for the ridge run, that's for sure.

Trip: Liberty Bell - Beckey Route Date: 9/29/2008 Trip Report: Due to the awesome weather forecast and my desire to get out to WA pass, I took a day off and convinced my friend CF to join me on a climb of Liberty Bell (Beckey) and Concord Tower (N face). Actually, it did not take much convincing. We drove up to the Blue Lake TH on Sun night and camped in CF's van. We woke up today around sunrise and headed up. On the climber's trail: The temps were chilly in the morning, the skies were bluebird, and we made good time to the routes. The plan was to climb Liberty Bell first. We met a party who were traversing all 5 peaks and were just starting up the N face of Concord. Later we would see them topping Lexington. I led the first pitch. I opted for the rib option, which is listed as 5.3 in my guide book. I think I went too far around the right and it seemed more like 5.6. Later I traversed back left into the chimney and it became low 5.x. CF led the second pitch with the awkward chimney moves over the chockstones. I was happy to have him lead that one. :-) There was a really awkward move over a horn and neither CF nor I managed to do it without straddling the horn like dorks. I led pitch 3. I had some minor troubles figuring out the route - first there were two pitons, and I got confused by the first. The second is the one in my route description (under a bulge you must traverse left). Later I tried to move left instead of right, tricked by some tat/slings. There was a bit of rope drag once I got towards the top of the undercling/friction moves. The pitch was quite fun and sporting 5.6. We then stashed our rope and rack and scrambled to the summit. The 5.7 boulder move on the slab was exciting. CF after finishing the 5.7 move: View towards the other members of the Liberty Bell group: KK on the summit: The three pitches took us 3 hours so we did not linger long on the summit. We retraced the scramble, opting to loop two cordelettes through a rappel sling above the 5.7 slab for a secure handline to downclimb it. Then we had some issues. We wandered around all the by-trails to the E of the top of the third pitch and could not find the rappel anchor. We wasted around an hour on this. Finally, I was able to locate the anchor. We rappeled two single rope raps. CF on rappel: Unfortunately that put us on the ground around 3:00. If we took 3 hours to summit Concord, plus a rap, that would put us close to dark. We already had a great day - no need to push our luck. We hiked out leisurely, grabbed a burger in Marblemount and got home around 9 pm. View on the way out: Gear Notes: Stoppers 4-12, hexacentric 9-11, C4 1-3, green and yellow aliens Approach Notes: Larches are starting to turn yellow

Trip: Cathedral Rock - SWFace Date: 9/27/2008 Trip Report: My friend PG and I took two newbies on an easy alpine outing on Saturday. We opted for Cathedral Rock, located near Mt. Daniel. The forecast was excellent and it can easily be done in a day. The climb involves a pleasant and easy 4 mile approach via Cathedral Pass. You then turn onto a climber's trail - the left option leading to class 3 scrambling with a few exposed moves, and class 4 variations. Finally there is a dirty gully, which you can mitigate by staying on its edge lower down, and then avoid higher by scrambling on mostly solid rock on the climber's left. The gully is short, and no worse than, say, the approach to the Liberty Bell/Concord tower notch. We roped up at the top of the gully for the single pitch of 5.easy climbing. We then set up a fixed line on an exposed ridge with some loose rocks. This is mostly class 2 and 3. The summit consists of three interesting blocks, with the pointy one appearing to be the highest. Looking down between two of the summit blocks: Views from the summit are quite nice - Mt. Daniel, Hinman, the Cradle, Stuart, Ingalls, Rainier, etc, etc. Mt. Daniel from Cathedral Rock: The hike out was pleasant as well. We arrived at the cars at dusk. Gear Notes: Small alpine rack. Two ropes for rappel.

When I got stung a few years ago on the Snowking approach, it was not the pain of the stings that sucked so much as the crazy itching all next week! These pests must be eradicated!

You can not see the hypocrisy here? The Valley of the Kings is itself a blight on the natural environment. Men raped the rock there carving stairs, hallways, and rooms in the earth. Then when the earth reclaimed this land, men came again to rape the rock again. And you are participating in this carnage. And you cry your crocodile tears about bolts?

It would be cool to see a topo and/or better photos of Champagne

This guy is solid... and yes a badass. We wants to head up the big R again this year - in December... hopefully someone will jump in on it.

Hey Mounties! When you climb stuff like this at Vantage (pictured below), you endorse its environmental trashing by sport-climbers. Don't even pretend you have an environmental conscience when you teach courses in such things. Proud of yourselves???? [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/uploads/10147/Vantage_attrocity_1_.jpg[/img] (And it case you haven't figured it out, the red-circles indicate permanent alterations to the landscape in the form of bolts....and there are even more on those "routes" in addition to those indicated.) STFU

I know someone who turned around on Ingalls last w/e. Got up the first pitch on the easy route - and hit ice. More concerned about snow accumulation right now and weather it will melt in time for Sat.

I disagree. It is longish but that's about it. Slab moves are cheatable with holds, it would only be rated 5.7-5.8 at Darrington, is over-bolted, is often occupied, and freeway noise is LOUD. I will refrain from rattling off a long list of better (IMHO) X38 climbs as this thread is about wasps. I am with Dru: wasps are not bees. One key difference is that bees have barbs on the end of the stingers so they can only sting once, their bodies are torn apart after they sting you, and they die shortly thereafter. Wasps have barbless stingers, can sting more than once, and tend to have meaner dispositions, perhaps relating to the low cost of stinging you. Still, you have my sympathy. My wife and I stumbled on a nest above little Si and were chased down the trail hundreds of yards. We each got four stings that hurt for days. This is the time of year when those little bastards turn real mean. Best to hike with a can of wasp killer to exact revenge on them.

Does anyone know if the pass has gotten any snow accumulation? I'm considering heading up there Sat and would hate to have snow or ice on the rock...

the dog route conga line follow it

Good job, D!

Get over yourself, KK. You have been no less of an ass. Or not much less. Really. "You guys" ebb and flow with respect who is being the bigger jerk one day or the next, but the fact is you clearly have shown you like rolling in dog pooh. Tvash has gone out and actually put some work into trying to make our voting process better. What about you? Post belligerent stuff on a climber's website and suggest that people who don't like America should leave? Enjoy your pigsty - and your pig friend. I'm done.

No actually, no thanks, I think I just will not participate. I have no desire to interact with complete assholes, whether here or in real life. Think about that, as a moderator of this site. You warned the guy; it has no effect. Yeah, yeah, I know you'll all start off with your "drama queen" flames, "FW" this and that. But really, people like TTK and GGK, who spew nothing *but* hatred and venom, who don't seem to like anyone really, have just gotten tiresome. And the prospect of meeting them in "real life" through cc.com events is even less appealing.

Yeah, this guy is real convincing. And a real pleasure to have around on this forum.

the pics are fine. another example of "user error", I'm sure

Exclude people from voting? Of course not! The Democrat party is ALL INCLUSIVE - including the dead, convicted felons and illegal immigrants!!!

+1

and the word was made flesh. and the flesh has two big, droopy, simian breasteses

If it's true, then it's just another example of "an all-American family". --Barf-- If you hate America so much, f-ing leave, you loser.

the liberal propaganda and misinformation machine is trucking along as usual

NOW THAT'S CHANGE I CAN BELIEVE IN!!!!

I think all rational people agree with this. I find it stunning that this debate and the balance the budget debate as well hasn't hit center stage in the US Presidential elections. Issues? It's much more important to dump hate on Palin because of her personal choices, family life, religion, and whatever else doesn't sit well with a vitriolic libturd. Politics of personal destruction, baby! BTW, I saw Obama on O'Reilley last night and was very impressed by how he handled the interview and badgering. I like to see these guys off their talking points and more "real".

Yes, definitely! xisIVhc64Ng