Trip: Lane Peak - Zipper
Date: 2/14/2009
Trip Report:
Yesterday I climbed Lane Peak with a few folks. Avy danger was forecast to be decreasing from Friday as moderate below 7000 ft. on N. aspects, so we decided to take a look at the route without beacons/probes.
The objective viewed from the approach:
The approach is easy and short, the worst part being the hike up the hill from the parking lot to the road above. Temps were in the high 20's. There was at least a foot of powder on the hill above a hard layer and it was slippery in spots. We used snowshoes on the road and up a fair amount of the avy fan leading up to the Zipper. We encountered variable snow conditions all day.
When the snow got harder and icier we switched to 'pons and roped up. Immediately the snow got soft again - with more than a foot of loose powder on top. We immediately wondered if 1) this was a good idea due to the slope being loaded and a moderate avy forecast, 2) why we roped up since there wasn't going to be a need for pro.
We headed up anyways. This involved a lot of wallowing. Only some sections of the route (very short) were firm at all. Overall it was pleasant climbing though. When we were about 2/3 of the way up, it started to snow lightly and got colder.
Starting up the Zipper:
Finishing up the Zipper:
We topped off just after 1:30 and a couple folks scoped out the last pitch to the summit. It was steeper than the zipper (50 degrees at least) and looked icy. A couple folks decided to head down; the rest of us opted for a quick tag of the summit. The weather had just started to improve a this time.
This last bit was the most "sporting" part of the day with about 100 feet of icy snow that took a few pickets and one ice screw (very marginal). A party in front of us climbed this part unroped, but it looked sketchy. You definitely want a 2nd tool for this, and will do some front-pointing.
Summit pron:
After tagging the summit we turned around and belayed one person to the tree just below and set up a rappel anchor and belayed each other to the anchor as well. We then set up a double-rope rappel to get past the "sporty" section, and then hauled ass to get back to the cars at 5:25 - just before dusk.
This is steeper than it looks from the photo:
A great day to be out!
Gear Notes:
Ice axe, 2nd tool, crampons, snowshoes, rope, a few pickets.
Approach Notes:
Around of foot of powder in the open areas, less in the forested area. Variable snow conditions.