KaskadskyjKozak

Your manzier?

fuck the news! climb!

if only...

Excellent. I may take mine up Adams this year... although I keep filling up all my weekends

Excellent! Are you gonna give Rainier another go with them this year?

Thanks to everyone! Not much "hardman" here - the weather was not that bad, just poor visibility. A big part of our success was the strength of the team - no slackers and no complainers, all smiles and good attitude.

Trip: Eldorado - East Ridge Date: 6/6/2009 Trip Report: Over the years I've had some bad luck on Eldorado, and, with one free day this weekend I had hope for another shot. Although the forecast was marginal (30% chance of showers) and knowing the area gets socked in a lot with this type of forecast, I opted to go for it anyways. We car camped at Eldorado TH, and headed up at 5 am. It had not rained over the night, but we could see the trail would be socked in a few hundred feet up (and it was). The approach trail was its normal, cheerful self. I almost regurgitated the donut I foolishly downed at the TH along with a yoplait and a bagel with cream cheese. I kept thinking I was going too slow as my party kept up with me with no trouble. But we hit the boulder field in just over an hour. The boulder field was wet, and we were still socked in. As we ascended wet rocks, then patchy snow, avy debris and, finally, continuous snow we held out hope that we would get above the clouds eventually. After 3.5 hours we topped off on the ridge above the Roush basin. We quickly found the gully, dropped down, and roped up. Soon, we were slogging away. At 7500 feet we finally broke through the clouds. The views on the Inspiration Glacier were awesome. Our persistence had paid off! We crossed the flats and took a rest at the rock islands near a bivy spot. Excited to finish we ascended the last 1200 feet or so. Finally the elevation began to take its toll and we slowed a bit. Unfortunately the ridge was socked in, so the clear skies faded back into greyness. I hit the knife edge, and opted to go on top of it rather than on the boot path 4 feet below and to the climber's left of it. We arrived at the summit around 12:30. We were at the cloud level and got some sun on the summit but no views, so we descended back down after a short rest. Soon we broke into clear skies and views again: We had a nice long rest at the rock island to take photos. Here's one of yours truly: Of course, while we sat at the rock island the summit cleared up completely. We quickly descended to our gear below the ridge descent gully passing a large party and a few smaller ones. It would be a busy weekend! View of avy debris on the upper boulder field: We go to the cars at 6pm. 13 hours car to car including a lot of rest breaks - not a bad day! Gear Notes: Ice axe Approach Notes: Patchy snow beginning at 4500 feet (upper boulder field) and continuous around 5000 feet. Upper stream is passable low, on the right of the waterfall over a snow bridge. Gully to the Roush drainage is mostly melted out. The knife edge is still an "edge" but there is also a bootpath below and to the climber's left of it, and the edge will probably fall and merge with that soon.

Like Mike Tyson? boner: go away

it's easier to steal second than third

unless you have a golden glove

pink can show you

Great job! I still can't believe you did this trip with 4 hours sleep after Ingalls!

and the smiley face is for what exactly?

soft

i'll ropegun if you'll be my belay b**** ;-)

Ritchie Blackmore's Rainbow Rising Long Live Rock and Roll Heaven and Hell Holy Diver :tup:

kbone forgot to douche today

wow, after the 50th time the joke is still no funnier than after the 3rd or 4th time...

Cool

When you are instructing you stand around a lot, so releading a pitch would not be a bad thing. I doubt these pitches would interest you anyways RuMR - we are talking about beginner routes - 5.3 to 5.6

I've done the same. I've also spoken up when I run into a cluster. The Tooth last May comes to mind (large WAC group on the route)

The problem with this perspective is that by merely occupying so many routes, you place the burden on the other users to have to go and ask. Most people avoid conflict and I know I would rather just go elsewhere than have to enter a large group, not knowing who is running things and boldly make some request in front of a big group, only to be told that someone is climbing that. Grow a pair and speak up. Jeez, it's not hard. "hey, can I jump on a route here?" real tough.