KaskadskyjKozak

Well, sure, but what they don't tell you is that none of those hospitals in Vancouver, Montreal, Ottawa or Toronto perform the procedure in Florida. It's February, for crissakes. Who wants to go to Montreal or Ottawa in bloody February? The only thing that confuses me about this scenario is that this guy is presumably as well positioned as anyone to asses the treatment options available to him in Canada, and better positioned than anyone to understand the extent to which he'll be exposing himself to charges of hypocrisy if news of his surgery goes public - so why on earth does he take the flight to Florida instead of getting treated with the exact same procedure just as promptly in Canada? Because treatment in Canada sucks

Prole, I hope your Mom is OK with you posting her photos on cc.com

There's no need to question why someone would jump at the opportunity to leave Canada.

You should go to France or Sweden. Oh, wait, you are too stupid to learn a foreign language.

Why don't you go to another country for medical care? Why don't you go to another country period?

But Canada's health care is so much better than ours! WTF?!?!?!

Rich Richard

Yes, as you get above Source Lake. Lower down the crampons on snow shoes make the cat track easier to hike (it's icy).

We had headlamps on until Source Lake. :-)

Winter (meaning cat-track from the highest Alpental lot, to the climber's left side of Source Lake)

Good point, goatboy. For the record, my partner and I stretched out the rope and stood for about an hour directly under the moat yelling to our other team, asking what was up, and how the anchor/belay spot and route looked. We were told there was not a lot of room for a second, parallel belay spot or to run in parallel, so we waited for the follower to start up before I set up a belay. I honestly was wondering if our first leader might want to bail for a while standing there. Meanwhile we saw 5 people standing in a sunny spot on the ridge behind us. We weren't sure if they were climbers or hikers just hanging out. Nobody approached us to ask WTF was going on, or if they could jump ahead. It would have been easy to walk over to us where we stood and ask.

9.5 hours, including at least an hour waiting below the moat. i noticed you tried the NE butt earlier this season as well. :-)

If any party had caught up to us at the top of pitch 1 or 2 and set up a belay (or tried to do a running belay) fast enough to pass us I would have had absolutely no problem with that.

fuck yeah. we could fund Prole's retirement from his own contributions to the weed tax. bring it!

Sorry to hear about the toes, sunnyrem. When do you want to get out on ice (or mixed) again? Lane Peak/Lover's Lane is looking great right now :-)

Ed, nice job. How long did it take you from car to summit?

Were you the guys that just caught up to me on pitch two, and set up a belay immediately to my (climber's) right?

Amen. Pitch two was wide open with lots of belay trees for the third pitch - or even a running belay. If anyone was near me I would have encouraged them to fly by.

The first pitch was a bottleneck. I led the second rope team up, and there was a lot of waiting. The first leader had to break trail - cleaning off a lot of sugar snow (you should be grateful, it looked nasty). There were at least 2 lines possible on pitch 2, and even pitch 3. A party almost caught up to us on pitch 2 (the leader caught up as I was belaying my partner). But they never seemed to want to, or be able to pass - was that you? Looking down from pitch three I certainly couldn't see anyone in "danger" of catching up - see third photo above. In any case - this is a trade route. WTF do you expect? Get up earlier, or pick a different line. Hell, pick a different route. A "fast and light" group like you surely could have run up the East Face - nobody was there.

I haven't been up there this time of year. Some friends of mine mentioned that scramble is fairly exposed mixed terrain in April. Thanks for the info...

Excellent!

no pitons? (talking between now and early spring)

B.

we were the first team up and summited around 2:45 (cars at 6). There were 4-5 people on the route below us. There's almost no way they'd be home yet, so I would not stress for a couple hours.

we did a single rope rap and downclimbed soft 50 degree snow (the angle gradually gets easier)