Dr_Crash

Maybe because we have more English majors here? Here's to education drC

Is that an invitation to go climbing with you? drC

Climb: Naches Peak, Chinook Pass- Date of Climb: 5/9/2004 Trip Report: Gear Notes: Just your regular heavyweight backcountry setup (G4s + Trekkers). Approach Notes: We left a car a few switchbacks down from the pass, and took the other one to the pass itself. Went up to Naches Peak, then skied down to the car we left at the bottom. Weather was changing a lot (covered; sunny; misting; slightly graupeling; you name it). Snow looked yummy on the southern exposures next to the false summit, but the descent we made was in very very very wet mashed potatoes. But hey, skiing is always great. drC

I did climb climb climb!!! Not for too long because you wouldn't think I'm efficient right off the bat, would you? But I spent a couple of hours at Vertical World with a friend after fleeing Marymoor which we reached just when the downpour started today... I tried plenty of shoes, and the findingsd are: I need a 1/2 bigger size with Mad Rock and then they're okay; 5.10 fit me likely the best at my street size or 1/2 size less (large toebox, narrow heel, and sturdy arch support) but the model I tried (Spire) felt a bit weird somehow: too boxy maybe; and I am okay in a pair of Mythos one full size down my street size instead of the 1 1/2 I tried initially. That's what I got (size 40), and they better not stretch too much on my right foot, okay, or that guy will not be snug enough. I think after stretching them a bit I'll be fine with them for long periods of time. For now I have to remove them after a while. Back to the TR. I loved it! Really nice, and I'll try to climb once a week or more from now on with my friend, outdoors whenever possible, and soon on real rock rather than a wall. Tried stuff ranging from 5.6 to 5.8, had a lot of stuff, and finally gave up when my arms got too tired (that lack of efficiency again) to get my fat butt closer to the wall on that slightly overhanging route. Thanks guys for your patience with me. You ! drC

Hmm. I tore my arch on my right foot a few years ago and it still gives me burning sensations on some days. I may need some support. I am also hoping that actually climbing will strengthen that arch and make it stop hurting but have no idea, really. (Just like I hope that continuing to ski like a maniac will help my knees stop hurting .) drC

Thanks gripped. Are velcros about the same as lace up re: all day wear? drC

Oh yes we're getting ripped here, that's for sure. Same for skis, and most of the recreational equipment. For many brands we're even getting ripped compared to Canada, let alone Europe! The $120 (just reduced from $137) Mythos can be ordered from TP and Cham3S for a whopping $83 plus overseas shipping and these are the obvious places, not the cheapest ones probably. Sometimes I think I should have accepted that job in Paris but then, I like the immediacy of accessing the outdoors here much better (even with 4 less weeks of vacations). Where is Dryad picking up shoes, and when? I'm going to France in June. drC

Point well taken re: skills being more important than the shoes. Thanks for the advice, guys. I'll shop with an open mind. I'm glad I haven't bought the lycra tights yet, so I can get that color-matching thing out of the way for now, I'll just buy matching tights drC

Approach skis are an option too. drC

Is it wise to look at beginner-only shoes like the Cliff? I don't really want to spend $90 for a shoe that won't last long. I also don't want to get specialized shoes (banana-shaped, very asymetrical, etc.) of course, but wanting something that will last past my beginner stage is why I was looking at the Mythos. My reference for beginner/intermediate/expert classification is Climbing's 2004 Gear Guide BTW. I'm sure you guys are right re: comfort. How can you gauge how much a shoe will stretch, and how much of the pain-in-the-store will really last? The only guideline I have is the salesman... But I know that for ski boots, if I get them to be snug but okay in a store, I'll hate them a few weeks later when the liner will have stretched, so I was thinking on the lines of "it's okay if it hurts at first" (only if it *does* stretch of course). And no, I'm not simply interested in peak-bagging. But I want that to be an option. drC

Hi, I'm getting my first pair of rock shoes, having decided to start rock climbing to be a rounder (and I don't mean waist shape here) mountaineer (I just do ski mountaineering for now), and to be able to get my kids out of the gym they're currently climbing at. I'll start by doing weekly climbing at Marymoor park (or a gym if the weather doesn't cooperate) then head to Exit 32 or other local spots. I also want to be able to reach summits where you need to climb. Having no idea what I'll like the best I don't want to commit to a type of shoe that favors one activity versus another. It's a bit confusing... I tried on some La Sportiva Mythos who have been recommended as a great all around shoe. I wear a US 8 1/2 (European 42, though it's labelled as 41 on La Sportiva boxes) and was convinced that a US 7 (La Sportiva 39 1/2) was okay. My left foot feels totally jammed in that thing (it's th elonger foot) but in a size 40 my smaller foot is pretty comfortable, and I was given the advice to size to my smaller foot. I understand the reason for that, but sure hope that the left shoe will stretch enough in length to accomodate my poor left foot What are other comparable shoes to try? The 5.10 Moccasym? Others? The Mythos is pretty expensive ($120) and while I can buy that I don't mind paying less either Thanks in advance, drC

Why of course. drC

Hey, I've gone everywhere in a Miata, with snow tires in winter. Sure, I had to dig it from under more than its height of snow, and yes, I once got the wheels off the ground because there was so much snow that got piled under the car, but nothing than a shoveling couldn't fix. It might not be the perfect car for here but it sure works, and nothing beats driving top down to the trailhead, skis on the passenger seat. It even performs better than most of the SUVs out there (a few of whom spun and ended up on their roof while I had no issue) but this is more likely due to the average driving skill around here than to the car. drC

There is one Suunto which is smaller in size and doesn't look as geeky as the other ones. I think it's the Observer. drC

I'll worry about obsessing. Could you worry about grammar a bit? That first "sentence" of yours is tough to read! drC

So, I've marked my carabiners with nail polish. I did the marking inside the gate, where the keylock nose rests. I want to remove some polish from one biner which got a bit too much of it. I could scrape it off, or just go for remover. I don't think the remover would be an issue, but wanted to double-check first. I may even have to remove all of it and mark somewhere else, since somebody at Feathered Friends shared where they mark their carabiners and I thought it was a better spot, where the mark would be protected yet visible if you want to quickly see who gear belongs to. With my current way, you need to open the gate to know, which isn't really an issue except for speed maybe. drC

I knew I was confused . Thanks for pointing it out. (And I can't read a ski name either, apparently.) drC

So you're asking $150 and Life-Link sells them for $99. I'm confused. I guess "OBO" could yield an offer under that price though. I'm also curious. Have you skied such lightweight skis? They must be really weird on snow that is less than perfect. drC

Too warm for the conditions here? I'm looking for a jacket that I could pack small as emergency / snow camping jacket. drC

I'm interested. Which Tourlite binding is it? There's a Tech, a Tri-Step, and the Comfort and I'm guessing the Tech (TLT)? From which year? drC

I'd get the L instead. Boot soles today are shorter than they were a few years ago, and that may continue to happen. Also, at least for me, I find out that as I get older I get less tolerant of a sloppy boot fit, and have been able to go a shell size smaller (and remount my alpine bindings, but that's not an option with the Diamirs). drC

Does it work well, and what dilution ratio did you use? drC

Hi Rodchester, Yes, I've thought of asking the Mountie Police (which I assume is what you call the people on the different Mountaineers committees) and the answer is likely to be: "it depends." As in, they don't care for ski mountaineering but most likely the basic climb guys will be rigid and will want solid gates true ovals anyways. catbirdseat, The weight difference would be 1 oz more than that but your point is well taken, and I know where to save the big weight: my body and my 5.5 lbs 55 l pack (compared to say an Icefall at 3.5 lbs) are more likely places to have a real effect. The Dovals look nice though. drC

Hi, I need to have 4 oval carabiners for my Mountaineers class (wiregates are okay for that class). I'm trying to find something really lightweight, and the Doval wire at 37 g looks really nice, but can it serve the exact same purpose as an oval carabiner, even though it's an "ovalized D?" If not, what's a good lightweight oval carabiner (and same question for solid gate)? Thanks in advance, drC Edit: Also, does the lack of "CE" marking means it hasn't passed certification?

I use MapSeal (bought at REI). Works well, about $8 for 4-6 maps (not counting my first, on which I used way too much product). drC