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Stemalot

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Everything posted by Stemalot

  1. Can anyone recommend a camera store in Bellingham down to Seattle that sells digi? I don't really want to buy a camera from Best Buys or giant stores like that. Thank!
  2. Alex Lowe, and I think someone else too, once said, "The best climber is the one who is having the most fun". Just go climb and enjoy the many different styles out there. If you climb a new route, call it whatever you want BUT also include how you did it.
  3. I so want to be there right now...
  4. Totally agree with ya there!
  5. wow, I have no spurs... but then I don't climb m10 either (yet!) , but I am glad I still have style.
  6. dru, you are in the Wack...go check it out for all of us!
  7. it's not really that simple. it can vary from season to season; not just within a season. guidebooks are just guidebooks for crying out loud. I know that ice formation changes from year to year. But if an ice route forms consistantly, then "grade 4-5" would work. If a route doesn't even form up, like 3 Ring Circus, then you can't climb it let along grade it consistantly. Guide books are just guide books for sure...and they are temporary along with our grading system.
  8. Not trying to single out rat here but why does every ice gradeing topic ends up with someone saying "blah blah blah" and then others agreeing with it? If we always look for exceptions in how one climb is easier or harder than what it "should" be, then we'll never come to a satisfactory gradeing system. Since ice formation changes, the rating system should take that into account. Instead of giving a climb a simple grade "4" or "5", why not try "4(in early season) to 5(later season)" or some range that captures the dynamic property of ice formation. I am not picky about what "grade" I climb. I can either climb it or barely climb it...or chicken out on it... People picky about a particular grade will never be satisfied with others' opinion anyways...if you are one of them, stop wasting everyone's time!
  9. Nice photos! I've been thinking about the same travers too!
  10. I don't know if Squamish gets less rain than Van or not...my guess it's about the same, maybe slightly more. Squamish drys very fast with all that wind. Just don't head up there like the first nice day after a rain storm. Actually, you can climb even in a typical West Coast rain storm, just stick to a nice finger crack where you can lock off! As for "can't do anything because it's too wet"...have you tried dry tooling on granite slab yet?
  11. Don't be so bloody synical. The West Coast does get streches of good weather despite the fact that we measure the rain fall in meters. How else would the Grand Wall be climbed in every month of the year?
  12. Looks fun...I'll do it, I'll do it, I'll do it!!!
  13. Went climbing on Sunday at Squishy...climbed a bunch of nice pitches at the Smoke Bluffs. Super beautiful weather, warm...ah...superb climbing in the winter sun.
  14. What if you started climbing after years you got got your life insurance? Is the contract now void?
  15. Squishy is dry for the most part on this Sunday. Need about two to three days of good weather for a worthy weekend trip around this time of the year. However, the Smoke Bluffs drys really fast and great for a one day trip for locals.
  16. yeah...logger are strong...well, try placing less pro then!
  17. hey man, you gota hook me up with your sis!!! She's totally out of this world! I'll vote for your story!!! and I'll buy you beer.
  18. climb fast and climb high, then the local loggers can't catch you.
  19. Elephunky moves...stem to the right on the rock lower down and then you can lean your back against a small piece of an over hanging roof... interesting rest position, but can't swing tool ! Good ramp up to the base of the final pillar. Beautiful yet steep pillar gives a final sting to the climb. Stuff like this is more interesting than just a straight forward steep ice bash.
  20. I don't fall...so harness is just for show...wait, if I don't fall, then I don't need to bring my harness...if no harness, then no rope, no pros...
  21. Well said...I have missed many shots because I don't want to "waste" expensive slides on something that might not look great...time to get a digi and go take lots of photos.
  22. totally agree with stinky there...ferry sucks...god, how I hate the ferries might as well take up mountain biking. as boring as the highway is, there are still good mountains up island worth the 5 hour drive.
  23. Yeah...your life is finished...relatively speaking. But try the following. Rock climbing: Mt. Wells, McDonald, Fleming Beach (good bouldering), Sugarloaf (you want to climb here!), there are other little areas. Check out Robson's Outdoor whatever in downtown for knowledgable staff and a lousy local guide book (the guy who edits the guide book basically recycle stuff from the year before. Not the most user friendly, but passable when you are miles away from Squamish) Ice climbing: none in Victoria other than what Fern mentioned, try Mt. Arrowsmith. You need a 4x4 or a snowmachine, otherwise, it's a half a day ski in or see if the local red neck will give you a lift. There is ice if you go towards Mt. Cokely (used to be known as the Mt. Arrowsmith skiing area until went out of business). have a look at this: http://www.bivouac.com/PhotoPg.asp?PhotoId=3008 If you want ice, talk to Peter Rothemel up island. Friendly, knowledgable with regards to ice up island. If you are in Vic., try the indoor gym Crag-X. Small, but damned good bouldering/route problems. The ACC people usually go there once a week. Usually Sandy Briggs is the man you want to talk to if you want island mountain info...try the new island guide book too. http://www.horizon.bc.ca/~acc/index.htm For more adventurous stuff: Mt. Myra might have ice in winter and great granit climbs in summer (a long hike though). If you are really up for it...try climbing Colonel Foster in winter. Good luck!
  24. taking over one of the bars is a fine idea. (but the second hand smoke sucks ) Regarding "The legion does not open on scheduled days off unless expecting to make 500 bucks.": from an economical point of view, it doesn't make sense for the legion to STILL charge poor climbers that much money for an event they don't have this year. If the legion insists on charging the same rate as if the festival were there, climbers will just go somewhere else to share their stories. I got two slide projetors; both Kodak that I could bring for the slide show. I don't have a screen though.
  25. well...can't fight mother nature...if there is that much snow...then go skiing. be a downhill skiing yuppy for a weekend doesn't sound so bad...
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