JensHolsten

Yeah guys! Way to go...so cool!

Hey guys. Just wanted to link a recent blog post I wrote about climbing the left coulior on Sherpa Peak's NE face and then the east ridge to the summit. It's been done many times before and skied to boot, but the current conditions have it in stellar climbing condition. I really, really enjoyed every inch of the route, so if you are looking to get warmed up for the winter ahead, check it out! http://jensholsten.blogspot.com/2011/10/suprise-suprise.html

Shorts and no shirt weather on the South Face yesterday...and every other day the sun is shining bright!

Hey everyone, just wanted to post a link to my blog in which I am detailing the most recent trip at the moment. Sol Wertkin, Dan Hilden, and I made an attempt on the full summit ridge traverse of both the Southern and Northern Pickets. We fell short of the goal, but still have some great stories to tell. Check it out at: http://jensholsten.blogspot.com Hope you enjoy it!

Nice!!

Got a route overlay pic up on the blog. jensholsten.blogspot.com

Chasin' Tail is way right of DOE etc... on a totally different part of the wall. I know we shared one pitch with Dragontail Madness, but the rest was new I believe. I really wanted to push the top of the line through incredible steep corners above the prominent rock scar seen in the above photo (just right of the red line, mid face, but ended up taking the path of least resistance in the end. The corners above the rock scar would present some of the steepest, raddest climbing in the range...you just got to get there (shitty!). I am working on getting a better route overlay shot up on my blog. I will post it here also when I figure out how to draw a line in a picture! Also, just got home after a beautiful climb of Gorrillas in the Mist with a 4.5 pitch direct finish that makes this classic climb way more classic! Forget this pile and go climb GITM Direct...soooo good!!!! I'll try to get some info up on my blog about that adventure soon. Can't say it enough: GITM Direct is one of the best routes I've been on anywhere. Simply amazing.

Just wondering if anyone is heading east today/tomorrow? I am looking to get home from Seattle after a nice trip to the Sierra. I can throw down on gas/buy beer. I usually take the train home, but it would be cool to meet a new friend or hang with an old one. Gracias! Give a ring...(425) 749-0759

Careful up there this weekend!

Super cool!

Hey guys...wanted to invite ya'll to a slideshow covering the last few months of climbing in Patagonia, Alaska, and the Cascades. Climb L-town granite and then drop by the shop for a bit of entertainment! Show is on June 11 (saturday) and starts at 7 PM. Hope to see you there! Jens Holsten

Great to see a real climbing issue being discussed in a contructive, positive manner here...Although I have never done The Boving Route (I really want to!), this line has inspired me for more than a decade. Like many, I always looked at that fine sheet of granite and imagined it to offer the best rock on D-tail. As a result, Max Hasson and I established Dragonscar, a line we never dreamed of bolting, (and it's spicy!) especially with the proud nature of the route next door. Don't get me wrong Matt, if you place the bolts I'll clip 'em, but I say let's continue the tradition of bold climbing on Dragontail. If I had my pick, I'd rather repeat the route without steel. And as far as the finish: when you top out the first five, walk a few hundred feet right and head up the finish of Dragonscar: beautiful, solid granite climbing to 5.7 all the way to the top.

How about tommorrow? I'm out climbing for the day, but will return any call shortly after dark...it's gonna be fun!

Desperate bump...call me on my cell if interested, no more computer time tonight, (425) 749-0759

I know it's a bit late, but I am looking for someone who feels they are fit and can handle a one day Stuart Range mission and a hard route. If that sounds good, shoot me an email (jensholsten@gmail.com)...want to leave early mon morning.

Just a note...Potholes is awesome, by far the best basalt I have played on in Easter WA, even though the routes are short. Just wanted to let everyone know that we were being watched as we climbed by a vehicle with lights (I think the Potholes are a National Wildlife Preserve?) and had contact with another official looking person who wanted to "know if we were ok". Low profile spot for sure...

Your right Mike, numbers don't tell the whole story, but I have to disagree with you about 9's, 10,s, and 11,s in Washington being more difficult. If you climb solid Yosemite 5.12 then any 5.9, 5.10, or 5.11, while they may be heady, are not so difficult.

I was up at Nada day before yesterday and watched it fall apart in 40 degree temps. We did climb about part way up, but falling ice and snow from above created a sketchy scene and we bailed. No use getting squished so early in the season. Now, with the freezing level even higher, I imagine it is out for now. But...if it gets cold, it will quickly come into shape.

Just a thought here...I personally believe Dragons is a solid grade V. I am comparing this to the many, many grade V and VI climbs I have done over the years. Once you top out the "technical" section, the upper part of the route still holds A LOT of climbing. In fact, the upper NEB is known for its never ending nature. Just my 2 cents.

Thanks guys! Hate to burst your bubble, but it wasn't on sight. I tried the route last year right after Mikey sent. That said, I didn't spend much time on the route, nor did I know it well. Definitely a "stoner" on sight. Also, I had never climbed past pitch 6, so the 5.11+ leads through the night were on sight. TRL just might be the most sustained route in the state. Pitch ratings are: 5.11a, 5.11d, 5.11c/d,5.11b, 5.12c, 5.12b, 5.11a, 5.11d/12a, 5.10d...then it gets scrambly!

Hope to see ya'll this evening!

I have a funny story about an attempt at the traverse. To make a long story short I repeated the traverse with a partner and rope in 29 hours. My friend had never climbed in the Stuart Range (or with me for that matter) before: he got quite the tour. Dehydrated and sun stroked in between Stuart and Colchuck, he began skipping summits, instead going around as I tagged the peaks. About 6 miles from the Snow Lake's trail head we stopped and slept for a while, our 24 hour mark goal sliding away. When I asked my buddy to climb a week later, he politely refused. It was a bit traumatizing for him (I don't blame him) I can't wait to try again, alone. One thing I learned about this objective is that solo is the only way to go. Nice work again John.

yea, Sol! You're the man!

Gotta say though...renaming the route is a bit of a slap to Blake and Sol who made the best and most important ascent of the route. Go back and read their TR about firing this line ground up in inclement weather...the name was born from the original experiance, one that should not be forgotten, aid or no aid. That said, I refuse to care about this issue anymore, I just wanna go climb the thing.

Nice work Tom-I can't wait to try!