JensHolsten

That exit pitch sucks! That's why I always avoid it by actually climbing to the NE summit of Dragontail via a solid and fun pitch of 5.7. Two raps get you off the back no problem. I've always wondered why people (I've done it too...)go this way. No high point, no feeling of a summit, and the worst climbing on the entire mountain to boot! If anyone ever wants beta on an awesome and satisfying way to finish any of the routes coming up that way let me know! Thanks Colin and Nate for heading up on this one...so awesome to summit a cool route in winter. Of course, I got a proper beatdown a few days later with Dan Hilden up on Colchuck Peak. Ahhh, back to the realities of winter climbing.

Sad day...Getting to hang with Bjorn in Argentina this season was a true blessing. His passion was evident and his abilities unquestionable. One of my heroes for sure. RIP Bjorn.

Super cool guys! Glad folks are making it out!

The approach is tricky for this one! Here is the beta: After crossing Mountaineers Creek, cross over a wooded rib or two and then head straight south through the woods. DO NOT enter the boulder field until you have literally walked out the end of the woods as far south as the trees extend. At this point you can hook back left on a talus finger that avoids all that nasty bush whacking...I know the beta because I've been in that pain cave before! Hope this helps any future parties...with the right beta this is the best approach.

Oh yea, the 13th photo (lot's of good shots!) shows a stellar variation that shoots off right. I've done this variation in past years...its great and might be even easier than the standard finish, but has some fun ice runnels.

Another fall classic in the Stuart Range! Great work guys...isn't that a fun romp? When I was back there a week or two ago, we just walked around the approach ice in the trees...but that ice did look fun! Also, I have had some PM's from potential soloists...the cooler is fun, easy, and secure. But realize the 5.6 mixed pitch out of the cooler (not done by the team who wrote this report) is by far the crux of the route and the only few moves of the whole line that are less than secure. Be careful there and realize most will need a rope to rap off Argo (I do), even when soloing! Way to get after it guys and thanks for the pics!

Also, if you grab the tools and run before it starts snowing over here on the eastside, you can catch the NE Coulior on Argonaut in incredible, moderate ice and mixed conditions. Having done this the other day, I can say it is a much better, more well protected, and more interesting climb than something like Chair Peak.

Just took a lap up the NE cooler on Argonaut...conditions were incredible...water ice, mixed climbing, neve, snow of all sorts...I've scampered up this feature in the past, but it is now in incomparable shape! Really, really good...bet the NE cooler on D-tail is ready to go.

Same route...the cooler is by no means difficult, but the schrunds made things interesting. Also, a lot of rock outcroppings in the cooler that are buried in the spring, forced us through ice runnels and gave us a bit of mixed climbing. The snow in the rest of the coulior was perfect neve and ice. The upper ridge was the best part of the climb for sure...I wouldn't have made the summit either if I just had my boots and crampons. It was cool to hang them at a gusty belay with clouds swirling all around, change into icy rock shoes and surmount the summit block...my partner could not climb the feature in his boots and did not summit (he didn't bring rock shoes).

Yeah guys! Way to go...so cool!

Hey guys. Just wanted to link a recent blog post I wrote about climbing the left coulior on Sherpa Peak's NE face and then the east ridge to the summit. It's been done many times before and skied to boot, but the current conditions have it in stellar climbing condition. I really, really enjoyed every inch of the route, so if you are looking to get warmed up for the winter ahead, check it out! http://jensholsten.blogspot.com/2011/10/suprise-suprise.html

Shorts and no shirt weather on the South Face yesterday...and every other day the sun is shining bright!

Hey everyone, just wanted to post a link to my blog in which I am detailing the most recent trip at the moment. Sol Wertkin, Dan Hilden, and I made an attempt on the full summit ridge traverse of both the Southern and Northern Pickets. We fell short of the goal, but still have some great stories to tell. Check it out at: http://jensholsten.blogspot.com Hope you enjoy it!

Nice!!

Got a route overlay pic up on the blog. jensholsten.blogspot.com

Chasin' Tail is way right of DOE etc... on a totally different part of the wall. I know we shared one pitch with Dragontail Madness, but the rest was new I believe. I really wanted to push the top of the line through incredible steep corners above the prominent rock scar seen in the above photo (just right of the red line, mid face, but ended up taking the path of least resistance in the end. The corners above the rock scar would present some of the steepest, raddest climbing in the range...you just got to get there (shitty!). I am working on getting a better route overlay shot up on my blog. I will post it here also when I figure out how to draw a line in a picture! Also, just got home after a beautiful climb of Gorrillas in the Mist with a 4.5 pitch direct finish that makes this classic climb way more classic! Forget this pile and go climb GITM Direct...soooo good!!!! I'll try to get some info up on my blog about that adventure soon. Can't say it enough: GITM Direct is one of the best routes I've been on anywhere. Simply amazing.

Just wondering if anyone is heading east today/tomorrow? I am looking to get home from Seattle after a nice trip to the Sierra. I can throw down on gas/buy beer. I usually take the train home, but it would be cool to meet a new friend or hang with an old one. Gracias! Give a ring...(425) 749-0759

Careful up there this weekend!

Super cool!

Hey guys...wanted to invite ya'll to a slideshow covering the last few months of climbing in Patagonia, Alaska, and the Cascades. Climb L-town granite and then drop by the shop for a bit of entertainment! Show is on June 11 (saturday) and starts at 7 PM. Hope to see you there! Jens Holsten

Great to see a real climbing issue being discussed in a contructive, positive manner here...Although I have never done The Boving Route (I really want to!), this line has inspired me for more than a decade. Like many, I always looked at that fine sheet of granite and imagined it to offer the best rock on D-tail. As a result, Max Hasson and I established Dragonscar, a line we never dreamed of bolting, (and it's spicy!) especially with the proud nature of the route next door. Don't get me wrong Matt, if you place the bolts I'll clip 'em, but I say let's continue the tradition of bold climbing on Dragontail. If I had my pick, I'd rather repeat the route without steel. And as far as the finish: when you top out the first five, walk a few hundred feet right and head up the finish of Dragonscar: beautiful, solid granite climbing to 5.7 all the way to the top.

How about tommorrow? I'm out climbing for the day, but will return any call shortly after dark...it's gonna be fun!

Desperate bump...call me on my cell if interested, no more computer time tonight, (425) 749-0759

I know it's a bit late, but I am looking for someone who feels they are fit and can handle a one day Stuart Range mission and a hard route. If that sounds good, shoot me an email (jensholsten@gmail.com)...want to leave early mon morning.

Just a note...Potholes is awesome, by far the best basalt I have played on in Easter WA, even though the routes are short. Just wanted to let everyone know that we were being watched as we climbed by a vehicle with lights (I think the Potholes are a National Wildlife Preserve?) and had contact with another official looking person who wanted to "know if we were ok". Low profile spot for sure...