JensHolsten

Most of that tat you saw was most likely mine from early forays...Also, Sol and I did establish an unlikely rappel route down the wall a couple of years ago. Very nice topo!

Inspiring...as always!!

Just got my first glimpse of the book: nice work Ian! Stoke was overflowing as I thumbed through the pages, rain pouring down outside...super cool!

Psyched for ya John!

Just wondering if anyone is heading over the hill on Friday or Saturday and if I could snag a ride...I can pay for gas etc... Give a ring if it's possible! (509)393-0666

Thanks for the inspiration guys! Had a great time up there...We had stellar weather, but it was also really warm. As a result, lot's of rock and ice fall was noted in the CJ. We also saw some impressive sloughs up higher on the mountain. As a result we walked the long way home, which really wasn't so bad and seemed like the safest option for the day.

Living the dream!! Nice work guys

Yeah dude! Thanks for the stoke. Inspiring stuff. "... all made for a life changing experience." The mountains are powerful. They've enriched and changed my life too! So cool to see those smiles of joy in each pic. That's what it's all about!!

Supa Dupa inspiring!!

Nice Vern! Conditions are really interesting in the range this year...while the snowpack seems to be normal, the peaks themselves are very thin. Last year, we were climbing fat ice in early June. That doesn't seem like it's going to happen this year...maybe all the big storm systems that hit the range this winter were associated with high winds or something? The snow just blew around or maybe the storms lost their umph as they worked themselves over the Cascade crest? However! There are many fun routes to climb when the temps come down again. I highly, highly recommend The NE Cooler on McClellan Peak (jensholsten.blogspot.com for a trip report!) if you're looking for something new in the Stuart Range... John, I was under the NE face a couple of weeks ago...so shitty looking...seems like it could be a rock climb after this next week of blazing temps. What did you think Vern? North Ridge looks super fun...I was just contemplating an ascent of that gem considering the hot weather...there would be the classic mixed sections (slab and ridge before the Gendarme/climbing after the Gendarme to the summit, but a lot of the route could be done in rock shoes...I would bring red Trangos, strap on crampons,one axe, rock shoes, rope, and a rack...

super cool guys!

I patiently await the day until SCW forms fat again...that would be really, really cool. You can definetely scratch up routes on the right. With a close eye on conditions and a creative headspace, one can climb cool mixed routes in both the Tumwater and Icicle that folks never talk about.

Right on Kurt!

Thanks so much guys for the info. I really, really appreciate it. You've given me some good direction and the hope that this won't be an issue if I take care of it correctly!

Hey guys...anyone ever had a pea-like, very hard lump in their hand (mine is in my palm, under the ring finger)...I noticed it about a month ago and while it doesn't stop me from climbing, it does seem to swell and be generally unhappy after any vertical activity...just showed up out of nowhere...trigger finger??

Hubba Hubba's still fat as of today (2/16/12)...other routes to the right and left are also still in

That exit pitch sucks! That's why I always avoid it by actually climbing to the NE summit of Dragontail via a solid and fun pitch of 5.7. Two raps get you off the back no problem. I've always wondered why people (I've done it too...)go this way. No high point, no feeling of a summit, and the worst climbing on the entire mountain to boot! If anyone ever wants beta on an awesome and satisfying way to finish any of the routes coming up that way let me know! Thanks Colin and Nate for heading up on this one...so awesome to summit a cool route in winter. Of course, I got a proper beatdown a few days later with Dan Hilden up on Colchuck Peak. Ahhh, back to the realities of winter climbing.

Sad day...Getting to hang with Bjorn in Argentina this season was a true blessing. His passion was evident and his abilities unquestionable. One of my heroes for sure. RIP Bjorn.

Super cool guys! Glad folks are making it out!

The approach is tricky for this one! Here is the beta: After crossing Mountaineers Creek, cross over a wooded rib or two and then head straight south through the woods. DO NOT enter the boulder field until you have literally walked out the end of the woods as far south as the trees extend. At this point you can hook back left on a talus finger that avoids all that nasty bush whacking...I know the beta because I've been in that pain cave before! Hope this helps any future parties...with the right beta this is the best approach.

Oh yea, the 13th photo (lot's of good shots!) shows a stellar variation that shoots off right. I've done this variation in past years...its great and might be even easier than the standard finish, but has some fun ice runnels.

Another fall classic in the Stuart Range! Great work guys...isn't that a fun romp? When I was back there a week or two ago, we just walked around the approach ice in the trees...but that ice did look fun! Also, I have had some PM's from potential soloists...the cooler is fun, easy, and secure. But realize the 5.6 mixed pitch out of the cooler (not done by the team who wrote this report) is by far the crux of the route and the only few moves of the whole line that are less than secure. Be careful there and realize most will need a rope to rap off Argo (I do), even when soloing! Way to get after it guys and thanks for the pics!

Also, if you grab the tools and run before it starts snowing over here on the eastside, you can catch the NE Coulior on Argonaut in incredible, moderate ice and mixed conditions. Having done this the other day, I can say it is a much better, more well protected, and more interesting climb than something like Chair Peak.

Just took a lap up the NE cooler on Argonaut...conditions were incredible...water ice, mixed climbing, neve, snow of all sorts...I've scampered up this feature in the past, but it is now in incomparable shape! Really, really good...bet the NE cooler on D-tail is ready to go.

Same route...the cooler is by no means difficult, but the schrunds made things interesting. Also, a lot of rock outcroppings in the cooler that are buried in the spring, forced us through ice runnels and gave us a bit of mixed climbing. The snow in the rest of the coulior was perfect neve and ice. The upper ridge was the best part of the climb for sure...I wouldn't have made the summit either if I just had my boots and crampons. It was cool to hang them at a gusty belay with clouds swirling all around, change into icy rock shoes and surmount the summit block...my partner could not climb the feature in his boots and did not summit (he didn't bring rock shoes).