JensHolsten

Hi guys- I am trying to get my blog off the ground...jensholsten.blogspot.com. Thanks for taking a look! Jens

Sounds pretty darn conveniant...thanks for the info guys. On another note, where can I find a reliable weather forcast for the bugs?

Just wondering if anyone has approached the west face of the North Howser tower in the bugs from East Creek. I know there are some rappels that are now often used. Any beta on locating these rap stations?

Just a note on the grade IV vs. grade V thing...I am not going to speculate on which it is, but I have climbed grade V climbs quicker than our time on route...and even grade VI. The bottom line is those route length grades don't mean much these days with modern speed tactics, better gear, and savvy free climbing. In my humble opinion, a bivy does not dictate a grade.

A few more to add that have not been mentioned: Ride of the Valkaries (Icicle Creek), Shriek of the Mutilated (Tumwater), Maybe Maybe Crack (Icicle Creek), Stevens Pass Motel (Tumwater)

Getting there...on the mend. The hope and goal is to be training hard by early march. The whole ordeal sorta rocked my boat a bit...

My two cents...if the weaker climber can't route find or protect adequately, then that rope team should not be simul climbing. If you can't handle the basics than simul climbing may not be the best choice

This thread is hilarious! Ondra IS an inspiration and a very exciting talent in my book. I have no doubt he could throw a few cams in the rock while climbing 5.13+ or harder. If that kid ever gets psyched on el cap, wow, that will be something...as far as free climbing on el cap being the sole domain of the sport climber...99.9% of the time this is true, but let's remember Leo Houlding's (not a sport climber) one fall ascent of Freerider and more impressively, 2 fall ascent of El Nino. On that ascent he onsighted 2 5.13c pitches and grabbed a draw in two other spots. He sent those pitches second go. Also, Freerider (the new Astroman) gets sent by people who rarely clip draws...I know it's not that hard, but still, trad climbers do free el cap.

Shune's Buttress is an absolute classic. Zion is so cool, have a great time.

Right on, much appreciated Erik

Thanks for the tip Sherri, really appreciate it.

Just wondering if anyone in the Leavenworth vicinity knows of a room for rent for one responsible young (25) climber. I am only looking to be in the area for a few months so I would not be able to sign a lease. I know it is a bit of a long shot, but I thought I would ask. I'd be thankful for any leads at all. Jens

Incredible work Colin! Washington is representing down south this season. Jesse Huey (Seattle) sent a new variation to Fitz Roy´s North Pillar and is attempting the West Face of Cerro Torre right now. Bad ass! Max Hasson (Leavenworth)climbed the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre in 9.5 hours to the summit, one of the best times ever on the route and is attempting a new variation on Fitz Roy´s west face as we speak...more sends to come I´m sure. Send on!

Hi guys- Thanks for helpful comments. Bottom line is I am trying to get out of here as soon as possible. I am definetely more interested in my health than climbing. These mountains are not going anywhere. Thanks mneagle for the specific info, I really, really appreciate it. I am trying to get home as soon as possible. Jens

Hi guys- I thought I would post here thinking maybe ya´ll might have some helpful tips. I am currently in Patagonia on a dream trip to climb the amazing peaks here. Problem is, this trip has been a nightmare. Upon arriving I got sooo sick. Puking, bad headache, high fever, extreme muscle weakness, and a insane cough. After about five days I started to feel a bit better. I was recovering I thought. After a few days of feeling better I started to get extremely bad pain in my left side. The pain was excruciating and shot up my upper left side, into my shoulder and neck. I was whacked. I barely made it to the small clinic in El Chalten where they took x-rays. This was on 1/14/08. They told me I had fluid in the lung and prescribed Amoxicilina/Acido Clavulanico. I took this for one week. The pain lessened, but was definetely not gone. I went back for a second x-ray and some fluid was still present. They told me to keep on the original antibiotic prescribed. I did, but also got my hands on some zithromax, which I have been taking also. Nine days later I feel better, but still have sharp pain in my left side and shoulder when I take a deep breath. I don´t feel sick, just have pain. I am almost out of the antibiotics and am supposed to go to the doctor again in a few days for another x-ray. If I can´t get rid of the pain in a few days I think I will head home...I haven´t done anything but be sick for almost three weeks now. I haven´t even hiked out of el chalten. Kinda hard to climb here when you´ve been weakened by three sick weeks. I was just wondering if anyone had any useful info or experiance. I know this stuff is hard to sort out in a forum like this, but I am looking for any useful info I can get my hands on at this point. Thanks guys, Jens

Hey Blake...about your question concerning the where the route goes at the top...When I did the climb I escaped to the last part of the traverse route. I have tried the other vartions. The face can be climbed at 5.12+ to the anchor, but there is no pro. It does go though. In fact, Soulreaper almost had the onsight in the bag including the face, but terror struck right before the anchors and he took quite a large fall on a marginal piece. His effort was incredible and provided us both with much excitement! After this incident I decided to go left. I do think that doing SPM through the face adds an extra star to the route. To me, it is definetely the most inspiring finish.

Steven's Pass Motel is a great climb. There is a bomber green camelot placement before the first bolt underneath a small roof. 11D seems like a fair grade (I don't think it's 5.12), but a crimp on the face may have broken since I was on it a few years ago. Which way did you finish the climb?

To me, Red M&M's feels harder than CTD. Not sure about Yodemeister, never been on that one.

Does anyone happen to know how to resize these, so my eyes can read them? I want to see very badly, looks awesome!

Neat pictures Max, fun to see. Aaron, we'll definetely have to climb is ze alpine soon. Also, I felt the crux pitch clocked in at about 11c, so 11+ is a good grade. Most importantly, the climbing is great and it's all there. Gastons, jams, knob pulling, jugs...a varied pitch, steep and fun. What a fantastic area, I cannot wait to go back.

Hey Tim- Most of your post is great, but I gotta say, that the ground up, without bolts, traditional experiance (sorry to steal your line and change it) is not "totally" bullshit. Also, bold climbing is revered by publications like the Alpinist because it is worthy. Climbers who depend on their own mental and physical abilities to overcome obstacles of any magnitude are true adventurers and quite inspiring in my book. I will agree with you that this is a silly thread and believe me, I would be training or climbing if life allowed for that right now. As it is, I can't help but kill the boredom by posting on this site. Hope your doing well!

I have a question regarding new routing in Leavenworth and other areas. Why spend money and time bolting silly lumps of rock when challenging, beautiful climbs abound, many of which are lost to dirt and moss from neglect? Wouldn't it make more sense to work your way through the logical progression of amazing rock climbs in WA and elsewhere? As for those silly little lumps, throw a top rope down and climb them too. That way you can have fun on the moves without putting the drill to the rock. This is my train of thought. I am in no way trying to be an ass, just trying to understand other people's vision for climbing.

Even though Ben, I and others would love a report on Supercrack, I thought it would have to wait until the closure lifted. Climbing on Midnight during the closure is offensive indeed.

Very interesting subject Ben...to bad you can't garner more than one response, when people are compiling pages of worthless spew elsewhere. Whenever someone posts something about a climb that is actually worthy, there are few or no responses. Post something about a poor or mediocre line and everyone has to throw their two cents in...I don't get it. Any way, I would think about getting in contact with Cilley (he posts here). I also know Lapeska has posted here before (see Dan's Dreadful Direct thread) so you might be able to contact him by shooting a pm his way.

Of course...this link up has been done. The person I know who managed the feat did use a car, but I don't think their link was planned or anything. They got down from baker and said "why not" and drove over and climbed shuksan.