JensHolsten

Ahhh, ratings...they are so hard to pin down. My experience with ratings in the alpine is that they are a bit soft. Alpine climbing and the difficulty of a certain stretch depends so much on the day's factors. For example, on the 10+ monkey traverse, I gave more effort than I do on sighting 11+ at the crag. The rock was dirty, I didn't know where I was going, the rope drag was heinous, and holds were ripping out in my hands. Technically 10+ yes, but it sure didn't feel like it at the time. As Sol, Blake, and myself walked down from this adventure we discussed all the routes we had done over the years, trying to think of an example of an alpine line with legit ratings. If there were any, they were very few and far between. From Cerro Torre to the North Howser Tower and everything in between, we decided that ratings in the 'pine are indeed on the softer side. I really think that in comparison with local routes and standard setting lines around the world, calling this route 5.11 is much more appropriate than a 5.10 rating.

I really believe John played out his destiny, his role in life...it's dust to dust for everyone, bottom line. I surely feel for Tyrus and cannot even begin to imagine how he feels about all this, but I believe Bachar would have been denying his heart had he not been soloing for the many years he did. If anyone ever should have climbed without a rope, it was him. I will always think of LIFE to the full, not DEATH when I think of Bachar...thank you for the inspiration John. RIP.

Max and I climbed two new pitches around the aid and then tried to continue a much more difficult variation on the SE face. We were turned back by steep, poorly protected rock and made a rappel back down to the top of our second pitch before shooting left (third pitch variation)back onto the SB. Future parties will not need to rappel, the only reason we did was to get back to the route.

Nice work guys...love the route name! A couple of clarifications on John's info. The SB of Burkett Needle went all free at 10+, there is no rappel. Also, we did not beef up any of those anchors you rapped off. Original webbing all the way...nice work again!

Cool writeup Sol! Bulkhead Blues was on the list originally, but all three times I scoped it before the link, it was still seeping hard at the bottom. I really hope some of these great climbs get the attention they deserve.

Where is Dandroof???? Do I call it something else?

Hey Braydon- Seems like your done with the thread, but I just wanted to suggest that you throw all the obvious drive (this will take you far dude!) into climbing EVERY rock, ice, and mountain route you can get your hands on at your given level at the time. Build a solid, solid base...I want to climb high on the world's biggest peaks so badly!! and after many years of devoting everything to climbing I feel like I am closing in (as in the next 10 years!) on an intro level 8,000'er...It takes time, but the climbing journey is a fun one and each step should be cherished. Climb with all your being until Pumori becomes an obvious, natural extension of your skills. You will be there. Good luck homie.

Just wanted to chime in and say Castle Rock is your zone...I did my first leads there and I think it is a perfectly appropriate spot to throw yourself in the game. Have fun!

Thanks guys. Such a great route every time...a true classic in my book. Ade, thanks for the inspiration up at the lake-seeing you guys high on the fin in the fading pink light made us hungry for more. Jens

Hi guys- I am trying to get my blog off the ground...jensholsten.blogspot.com. Thanks for taking a look! Jens

Sounds pretty darn conveniant...thanks for the info guys. On another note, where can I find a reliable weather forcast for the bugs?

Just wondering if anyone has approached the west face of the North Howser tower in the bugs from East Creek. I know there are some rappels that are now often used. Any beta on locating these rap stations?

Just a note on the grade IV vs. grade V thing...I am not going to speculate on which it is, but I have climbed grade V climbs quicker than our time on route...and even grade VI. The bottom line is those route length grades don't mean much these days with modern speed tactics, better gear, and savvy free climbing. In my humble opinion, a bivy does not dictate a grade.

A few more to add that have not been mentioned: Ride of the Valkaries (Icicle Creek), Shriek of the Mutilated (Tumwater), Maybe Maybe Crack (Icicle Creek), Stevens Pass Motel (Tumwater)

Getting there...on the mend. The hope and goal is to be training hard by early march. The whole ordeal sorta rocked my boat a bit...

My two cents...if the weaker climber can't route find or protect adequately, then that rope team should not be simul climbing. If you can't handle the basics than simul climbing may not be the best choice

This thread is hilarious! Ondra IS an inspiration and a very exciting talent in my book. I have no doubt he could throw a few cams in the rock while climbing 5.13+ or harder. If that kid ever gets psyched on el cap, wow, that will be something...as far as free climbing on el cap being the sole domain of the sport climber...99.9% of the time this is true, but let's remember Leo Houlding's (not a sport climber) one fall ascent of Freerider and more impressively, 2 fall ascent of El Nino. On that ascent he onsighted 2 5.13c pitches and grabbed a draw in two other spots. He sent those pitches second go. Also, Freerider (the new Astroman) gets sent by people who rarely clip draws...I know it's not that hard, but still, trad climbers do free el cap.

Shune's Buttress is an absolute classic. Zion is so cool, have a great time.

Right on, much appreciated Erik

Thanks for the tip Sherri, really appreciate it.

Just wondering if anyone in the Leavenworth vicinity knows of a room for rent for one responsible young (25) climber. I am only looking to be in the area for a few months so I would not be able to sign a lease. I know it is a bit of a long shot, but I thought I would ask. I'd be thankful for any leads at all. Jens

Incredible work Colin! Washington is representing down south this season. Jesse Huey (Seattle) sent a new variation to Fitz Roy´s North Pillar and is attempting the West Face of Cerro Torre right now. Bad ass! Max Hasson (Leavenworth)climbed the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre in 9.5 hours to the summit, one of the best times ever on the route and is attempting a new variation on Fitz Roy´s west face as we speak...more sends to come I´m sure. Send on!

Hi guys- Thanks for helpful comments. Bottom line is I am trying to get out of here as soon as possible. I am definetely more interested in my health than climbing. These mountains are not going anywhere. Thanks mneagle for the specific info, I really, really appreciate it. I am trying to get home as soon as possible. Jens

Hi guys- I thought I would post here thinking maybe ya´ll might have some helpful tips. I am currently in Patagonia on a dream trip to climb the amazing peaks here. Problem is, this trip has been a nightmare. Upon arriving I got sooo sick. Puking, bad headache, high fever, extreme muscle weakness, and a insane cough. After about five days I started to feel a bit better. I was recovering I thought. After a few days of feeling better I started to get extremely bad pain in my left side. The pain was excruciating and shot up my upper left side, into my shoulder and neck. I was whacked. I barely made it to the small clinic in El Chalten where they took x-rays. This was on 1/14/08. They told me I had fluid in the lung and prescribed Amoxicilina/Acido Clavulanico. I took this for one week. The pain lessened, but was definetely not gone. I went back for a second x-ray and some fluid was still present. They told me to keep on the original antibiotic prescribed. I did, but also got my hands on some zithromax, which I have been taking also. Nine days later I feel better, but still have sharp pain in my left side and shoulder when I take a deep breath. I don´t feel sick, just have pain. I am almost out of the antibiotics and am supposed to go to the doctor again in a few days for another x-ray. If I can´t get rid of the pain in a few days I think I will head home...I haven´t done anything but be sick for almost three weeks now. I haven´t even hiked out of el chalten. Kinda hard to climb here when you´ve been weakened by three sick weeks. I was just wondering if anyone had any useful info or experiance. I know this stuff is hard to sort out in a forum like this, but I am looking for any useful info I can get my hands on at this point. Thanks guys, Jens

Hey Blake...about your question concerning the where the route goes at the top...When I did the climb I escaped to the last part of the traverse route. I have tried the other vartions. The face can be climbed at 5.12+ to the anchor, but there is no pro. It does go though. In fact, Soulreaper almost had the onsight in the bag including the face, but terror struck right before the anchors and he took quite a large fall on a marginal piece. His effort was incredible and provided us both with much excitement! After this incident I decided to go left. I do think that doing SPM through the face adds an extra star to the route. To me, it is definetely the most inspiring finish.