JensHolsten

Man...that all sounds so easy! Makes me wonder why it took me five tries to get this done in winter The reality is that only one or two of the 13 pitches we climbed were easy leads (for me). Even "the snow ramps" were time consuming and scary. Powder snow on rock...kinda insecure! And then there was the slab pitch that gains the route's crux 5.8 corner...that was way scary, but cool. I wondered if it would go covered in snow and wearing crampons. It did thankfully. I really wanted this one. To me, it represented one of the last major, classic routes on one of the range's main peaks to be climbed in winter (a Beckey route to boot!). With Colin Haley and Mark Bunker's FWA of Stuart's North Ridge, Ade Miller and John Plotz's FWA of The Backbone, Ade Miller (nice Ade!)and Alasdair Turner's FWA of the Serpentine Arete, and Nate Farr, Colin Bohannan, and my FWA of Dragontail's NE Buttress, only the NE Buttress of Colchuck remained. That it took me five tries is no suprise as winter climbing is hard and success comes rarely. In the five years I've been trying to climb in the Stuart Range during winter, I've only had four (out of like 20 efforts!) major (for me) successes: The second winter ascent of Stuart's Complete North Ridge in 2009 with Cole Allen, the FWA of Dragontail's NE Buttress last winter, the first ascent of the Hilden-Holsten on the NE face of Colchuck, and now the FWA of Colchuck's NE Buttress. By far, Colchuck's NE Buttress had the most serious and difficult climbing, which is no suprise as the terrain is slabby and the cracks less defined than on many of the range's similar routes. Aiding is not always an option. Now it's time to move on, let this dream die, and move on to the next challenge!

Hell yeah Dan!

Thx John and Steph! That made my morning

Beautiful

A lot of talk about the "low snow" on Dragontail...seems really typical to me, if not more covered than in the past few winters. The reality is, I've only seen the face in really good ice condition once in the winter. I've seen it fat for a two to three week period every spring for the last five years though...These spring cycles of warmer, wetter, calmer storms followed by sunny, long days are what will bring the north face into condition. We are just now starting to see that cycle begin. I would guess things are going to be shaping up nicely in the next month or two...true winter season climbs in the Stuart Range usually (not always!) involve scratchy mixed, thin ice, and sugar snow. Connect the frozen moss clumps, get gear when you can, and mixed climb like you mean it! Good work up there guys! Bedellympian: My friend Shaun and I ran into you on the way out after climbing the NE Buttress of Colchuck...super fun to see folks out getting some this weekend. What beautiful weather!

Climbed the Gerber-Sink on D-tail on 2-10-13. It was thin, but in...great climbing!

Sold

Ok, $375...this is a really, really, really good deal. I'll still pay shipping too.

Most of that tat you saw was most likely mine from early forays...Also, Sol and I did establish an unlikely rappel route down the wall a couple of years ago. Very nice topo!

Inspiring...as always!!

Great deal on a great pair of boots. Went to the Alaska Range with me this past spring and are in perfect condition still. Only reason I'm selling them is to fund this winter's trip to Patagonia! I'll pay the shipping or you can pick 'em up in Leavenworth.

Just got my first glimpse of the book: nice work Ian! Stoke was overflowing as I thumbed through the pages, rain pouring down outside...super cool!

Psyched for ya John!

Just wondering if anyone is heading over the hill on Friday or Saturday and if I could snag a ride...I can pay for gas etc... Give a ring if it's possible! (509)393-0666

Thanks for the inspiration guys! Had a great time up there...We had stellar weather, but it was also really warm. As a result, lot's of rock and ice fall was noted in the CJ. We also saw some impressive sloughs up higher on the mountain. As a result we walked the long way home, which really wasn't so bad and seemed like the safest option for the day.

Living the dream!! Nice work guys

Yeah dude! Thanks for the stoke. Inspiring stuff. "... all made for a life changing experience." The mountains are powerful. They've enriched and changed my life too! So cool to see those smiles of joy in each pic. That's what it's all about!!

Supa Dupa inspiring!!

Nice Vern! Conditions are really interesting in the range this year...while the snowpack seems to be normal, the peaks themselves are very thin. Last year, we were climbing fat ice in early June. That doesn't seem like it's going to happen this year...maybe all the big storm systems that hit the range this winter were associated with high winds or something? The snow just blew around or maybe the storms lost their umph as they worked themselves over the Cascade crest? However! There are many fun routes to climb when the temps come down again. I highly, highly recommend The NE Cooler on McClellan Peak (jensholsten.blogspot.com for a trip report!) if you're looking for something new in the Stuart Range... John, I was under the NE face a couple of weeks ago...so shitty looking...seems like it could be a rock climb after this next week of blazing temps. What did you think Vern? North Ridge looks super fun...I was just contemplating an ascent of that gem considering the hot weather...there would be the classic mixed sections (slab and ridge before the Gendarme/climbing after the Gendarme to the summit, but a lot of the route could be done in rock shoes...I would bring red Trangos, strap on crampons,one axe, rock shoes, rope, and a rack...

super cool guys!

I patiently await the day until SCW forms fat again...that would be really, really cool. You can definetely scratch up routes on the right. With a close eye on conditions and a creative headspace, one can climb cool mixed routes in both the Tumwater and Icicle that folks never talk about.

Right on Kurt!

Thanks so much guys for the info. I really, really appreciate it. You've given me some good direction and the hope that this won't be an issue if I take care of it correctly!

Hey guys...anyone ever had a pea-like, very hard lump in their hand (mine is in my palm, under the ring finger)...I noticed it about a month ago and while it doesn't stop me from climbing, it does seem to swell and be generally unhappy after any vertical activity...just showed up out of nowhere...trigger finger??

Hubba Hubba's still fat as of today (2/16/12)...other routes to the right and left are also still in