"Everyone climbs 5.11a".....whatever. It's like Chouinard says. "Back then I couldn't do 5.11 but I could do a one-arm pullup. Now, I can get up 5.11a but I can't do a one-arm." Grades are soft, bolts have demystified 5.11. Your average sport climber is still in over his head on old-school 5.11, and that's the bottom line.