John Frieh

My petzl face shield will protect me! I plan on el burro loco #3 Thursday night so you better be ahead of us or you might be enjoying some recycled chile rellenos... Is anybody gonna kick Pete in the butt and get him up there?

When it breaks. Generally no 2 falls you take aren't equal (unless you can't lock in the DFA chain beta and keep missing the jug) so you just need to keep track of the severity of each fall. Example: One factor 2? Retire. 100 TR falls? Probably still good. You need to remember the 6 fall rating is the number of falls it took your rope to break in the UIAA test... something you will never recreate... I hope. Read up on the conditions of the test to better understand what 6 actually means... What you use the rope for (cragging, alpine, aid) will also dictate how soon... You should already be continually inspecting your rope... preferrable after every trip (this is why coiling your rope is a good idea).

Eat it Dru!

I'm down for this week if anyone is interested... I'm in PDX... pm me. If you bring chocolate Pandora will come and post hole everything for us...

They need to make those holes in the shape/size of bolts like the grivel one and then it would be perfect:

Used a Jetboil over the weekend with MSR isobutane canister... impressive though the 2 cup capacity for melting snow sucks. I wish the container was bigger. Anybody come up with a novel way to hang it? Still trying to jerry rig mine.

1. Inspect flex points and point length (front points generally get the most sharpening)… should be fine assuming no appearance of metal fatigue at flex points and most of all points remain. 2. Inspect for poop/pee stains and general funk... should be fine. If down is shot you can always send it to someone for a refluff (new down)… while its there have them remove the zipper. 3. Yes but check liner: see if packed out (insulation has been compressed repeatively so appears flattened)... if so will need replaced. Check lace holes/eyelets... boots that sport metal eyelets are know to lose those eyelets at inopportune times. Check stitching points for tongue, etc… stitching coming out? Check boot sole: need a resole? Generally you have to buy the spot and returns are not an option so if possible make the seller call the manufactor to ensure that they still make the replacement items (boot liner)… or carry the phone numbers with you. Another great place to shop for boots is here and REI scratch and dent sales.

Good discussion. A few things: The UIAA recently suspended the sharp edge test due to inconsistencies between testing facilities (a rope would pass at one lab but not another). I doubt you could come up with a reproducible test that could definitively tell you how many times you could kick your rope before you had to retire it (and even if you did how many of us have partners that at the arrival of the belay report how many times they accidentally front pointed on your rope?)… A lot of the UIAA tests are BS anyways… case in point the ice screw test and the ice ax/tool… stupid! I think a healthy does of GRC (gross reality check) with ropes (or any piece of equipment) is all you need. I doubt you would completely severe a rope with a misplaced swing (though more likely with a skinny rope) though if I looked up to see my pick placed through my rope I would be much more likely to freak out on lead and then take a fall on a damaged rope. As far as the sheath goes some companies are currently weaving portions of the core into the sheath to decrease the amount of material needed to construct a rope… though this makes for a lighter rope it also makes for a smaller sheath. On the flip side I know at least Yates is making ropes (or having blue water make ropes to their specs) with fatter sheaths… they originally hoped to target aid climbers/big wallers but found that the rope appealed to everyone tried of replacing a rope in 6 months to a year due to general wear and tear. At the end of the day I would say unless they are weaving in chain mail no sheath is going to stand out as more resistant to errant placed tools. And WRT rope diameters… anything bigger than 10.2 mm is for aid or cragging (at least for me). As far as clipping: a pair of twins will clip easier than a pair of halfs (twins: both ropes through each point of pro) but granted no as easy as a single... but with detachable leashes these days how hard can it be to clip two lines through a biner? And yes you have to be vigilant policing potential rope tanglements… but based on your original question you said single pitch only so… untangling ropes on the ground isn’t that suck (at least compared to a hanging belay). Looking at your list I would rank for single pitch plum line water ice with or without mixed sections as follows: 1) 9.7ish-10.2ish mm 70 m single line (it will be a 60 sooner or later anyways). Go bigger diameter if you like to log a lot of fall time or intend to dry tool a bunch (lots of hanging, etc). Smaller if you are the new ice version Sendbot. 2) pair of twins (the smaller the better… beal makes 7.7! This is what I use.) 3) pair of halfs (you should own a pair for alpine routes anyways) And if you are mixed crag climbing I think a single is the only way to go.

Jens: PM Illini... I think he has an extra one. You will most likely find one in a local/non chain retail store... all the big box stores (REI, etc) can afford to clear them out and keep a tighter track of inventory... small local shops (Marmot Mtn, etc) don't and should have one laying around.

"Without passion man is a mere latent force and possibility, like the flint which awaits the shock of the iron before it can give forth its spark." Henri Frederic Amiel Holla at your boy cowboy!

I'll give you over the weekend... I'm going climbing so that should give you enough time especially if I'm as bad as you claim. Ciao!

Not as pathetic as someone whose only interaction with girls is IMing. Back you statement up or you're no better than me.

Like I said: post the links. I bet you I can find more links to times I gave people props than you find links to times I hassled people.

I think you should post a poll to see if others agree or disagree with you. Before I joined the site my “climbs to do” list was big... since joining the site and reading others TRs my “climbs to do” list has roughly tripled. Additionally it has prompted me to explore alternate climbing styles that I had previously dismissed based on the success others had in a TR. So I welcome and encourage anyone to post a TR for anything. Finally and most importantly: I am the first to admit I am egotistical… to the point it borders on shallow; it is something I constantly struggle with… As improbable as it might sound; I have actually decreased the size of my ego over the years . The site definitely keeps me humble... or at least cuts me down to size… I think the other problem is my writing style in conjunction with the anonymous nature of a message board only propagates the perceived size of my ego... I would argue of the few people who have met me after reading my various posts most would agree I am just another passionate climber chasing his passion... nothing more… nothing less. I apologize if you can't swallow my ego... I can tell most people choke on it. But if you are willing to be patient with me I promise to try and put up with you. Peace! John "Quit your whining Kirb... we topped out just fine if I recall... Maybe if you trained a little more you could follow 11c instead of jug it… " Good catch but I work and climb with Kirb dog... As his cube is right next to mine I make sure to fart with my ass pushed against the cube wall on a daily basis... in addition to heckling him on line. FYI I also work with Illini so he also gets online heckling (my leg hurts...) Honestly Ron climbs harder than me... its a shame he has only gone climbing twice this year (are you reading this ron?).

top roping Bunny Face? Hockey skates with the blades cut off.

And my previously posted request always stands: If you don't like me on the board; pm me and ask me to leave... if I get a notable response I will. I will keep the PMs anonymous.

Could you post links to posts in which I bagged someone who couldn't climb 5.10? I'd be curious to see them. I'd also be curious to see who agree with your comment: I think you should post a poll to see if others agree or disagree with you. Before I joined the site my “climbs to do” list was big... since joining the site and reading others TRs my “climbs to do” list has roughly tripled. Additionally it has prompted me to explore alternate climbing styles that I had previously dismissed based on the success others had in a TR. So I welcome and encourage anyone to post a TR for anything. Finally and most importantly: I am the first to admit I am egotistical… to the point it borders on shallow; it is something I constantly struggle with… As improbable as it might sound; I have actually decreased the size of my ego over the years . The site definitely keeps me humble... or at least cuts me down to size… I think the other problem is my writing style in conjunction with the anonymous nature of a message board only propagates the perceived size of my ego... I would argue of the few people who have met me after reading my various posts most would agree I am just another passionate climber chasing his passion... nothing more… nothing less. I apologize if you can't swallow my ego... I can tell most people choke on it. But if you are willing to be patient with me I promise to try and put up with you. Peace! John

We should do da toof this winter... I think you might actual like it... I'll carry everything so you don't have to worry about building excess muscle... don't want to hurt your redpoint ability. Let me know...

Get in line little scotty... you're not the first and definitely won't be the last person that doesn't like me. You need to remember I have to actual care what you think about me before you start whining about how much you dislike me. And find something else to whine about… the GP vest thing is old hat… And I beat off on my TRs because you don't post any. Post something worthwhile (a TR) and maybe I can switch it up.

On Stuart? No. But ask me on Monday. Speaking of which when are you gonna learn to climb in the snow d00d?

I have received a prompt reply every time I have sent something (thanks Jon!)... maybe he only replies to - users he takes seriously or - individuals who actually contribute something worth while to the site.

Which side did you climb? Approximate line? I found clean granite... hmmm.

Bump. Anybody know on average how late in the season this stays open? Road conditions currently?

He is getting a massage from Polish Bob as we speak...

Why don't you start with Off White's questions specifically: was it rap bolted with a power drill? Once you have that answer you can determine if your oh-so-important special attention is merited. As my dad always said: trying to skip steps will only result in you falling on your face. And when are you guys going to look into removing the now defunct dam in there? Talk about large scale rock alteration! Blasphemy!