John Frieh

PM Bill Coe. I've been there but street names escape me. It's by the lake next to the train tracks. Beware the poison oak!

Myo XP

Rifle: Sutter Home

Smith: Zima (at least in the dihedrals)

lcm and I buy sharkies by the box... you can get them at REI among other outdoor stores but if you buy them at whole foods in Portland (not sure if you guys have them in WA) by the box you get a 10% discount... Something else we do is buy cookies for diabetics (whole foods also has an excellent selection)... you'd be surprised how good they are! Finally my favorite snack food is dried fruit... bananas, prunes, mango, etc etc Great replacement and good for you!

Can we make sure to start the slides at an earlier time (no later than 6 pmish) so that PDX kids can get home at a decent time?

2 Hello Kitty Pez Dispensers. Brand new still in the package 5 bucks a kitty or... Free to any avatar with 30000 posts on cc.com

Worse than Jackson? I agree one of the biggest turds we have had ever but all time worst? Jackson was impeached...

No prob. Go try them both on and see what fits!

Boat = a hole in the ocean you throw money into

Metolius Rock Rings. Doesn't put force on your wrists.

Airline Visa is the way to go. What is the point of racking up a big dividend if you all you can spend it on is nalgenes and helmets you can tear with your hands? If REI actually carried a fine selection of climbing equipment I could understand having a REI Visa but they don't... Free airline tickets And oh yeah... I pay mine off every month so I'm not getting

Use the search engine on this website. You will find plenty of previous discussions on boots. Some applicable examples: A C B 1 2

A large part of the reason I go leashless is to have the option to swap/match/mantle and other forms of trickery. Yeah warmer hands is nice but going leashless has always been more pumpy for me... at least in the alpine or pure ice routes. So... if I am committed to not swapping hands on tools then I want leashes... but that's me. A grivel spring thing w/ a swivel attached to my harness works best for me. Clip them in a clipper on your harness when not in use/climbing with your hands. Move the attachment point to the head of the axe when you need to plunge the tool.

Doesn't that system suck for swapping hands though?

Picture of Nelson's rig for reference: I agree with Jim's concern about tools banging around when not in use but any time I am not using my tools I clip them to my harness on a BD clipper. In regards to your original question Marcus does climb with fangs on his vipers... he did minimal drilling until he could thread 1/2" tubular webbing through the hole. He tied a loop with this and clips in to that. If you do get a spring thing or something similar put a SS swivel between your harness and the clip in point to fight twisted tentacles.

And oh yeah... I hear if you preheat your rock shoes they climb a lot better

Holla! So I sent 5.10 an email to inquire into what they felt was a replacement to the newton and check it! 5.10 is actually going to continue producing the Newtons for EU distribution at least through this year so if you want a pair just call them up. Additionally mtntools.com has some sort of agreement w/ 5.10 to be a US distributor for the newton (not sure if other stores are also doing this)... mtntools won't be placing build orders themselves but will have the opportunity to pull from the EU build orders So basically you can get them from 5.10 or mtntools Bottom line: my pair will be here next week Awesome discussion and great info everybody! mattp: maybe duck feet isn't the best adjective... basically I have a D width (normal for a guy) but the widest part of my foot is roughly dead center of my foot and not at the ball of the foot like most people. Pair that with slightly narrower heels and *blamo* la sportiva doesn't fit me that well. Oh well. Again: thanks everybody!

Thanks everybody! Good info! I should have mentioned I have never been able to get a descent fit out of la sportiva... I think it's my duck shaped feet but everything I've tried kinda worked but never really hugged my foot like scarpa or five ten. I still might try a pair of mythos on... who knows? I have been looking at the Hueco and T-rock... Reading some reviews it sounds like they tried to replace the newton with those. I'm a little leery of the T-rock because it has the fiberglass midsole for edging... I think that would work against me for hand sized cracks. And the hueco with the foam heel is basically another scarpa marathon for me so I hesitate to consider these... And I completely agree with you Will... one always trades performance for comfort. With that said I think that one can find a balance between the two... both in fit and shoe characteristics. I think something with a slightly pointed toe (somewhere between pointed and completely round) w/ toes slightly bent would climb good enough for me but also wouldn't hobble me for the hike out. That type of toe profile in combo with a thick midsole in a slip lasted shoe and I'm stoked. Does anybody semi local (WA, OR, AZ) stock the tradmaster?

Anybody tried the 5.10 piton?

Unless of course the terrain exceeds class 3 and then he ropes up and belays it

If I am going to climb any crack larger than ~1/2" I try to make sure and wear shoes that my toes are only touching the end... maybe slightly bent... but never curled. If anything curled toes hurts your crack technique... unless you are climbing a crack so small or larger that you aren't jamming your feet.

So my 5.10 Newtons got a divorce (see I lost one ) which leaves me with a pair of scarpa marathons which just got a resole so they aren't as sensitive as I'd like them to be. Shopping for an all day do it all shoe that climbs well... cracks, face, etc etc. I don't plan on downsizing too much as I'd like to cough them into cracks but still would like them to drive well. What are the goods? What is 5.10 offering in place of the newton?