John Frieh
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[TR] Hyalite - much to give thanks for
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
i didn't realize montanans were such delicate flowers. All I'm asking is keep the spray in spray. -
Trip: Hyalite - ice ice ice Date: 11/22 - 11/26/06 Trip Report: guilty parties: powderhound (Bryan) Farrgo (Nate) NYC007 (Matt) DonnV (Donn) Marcus Donaldson NOLSe Other cc in da canyon: AlpineDave Micah PHILONIUS (Phil) PHILONIUS's partner ??? The couple Marcus and I met below G2 ??? drive drive drive hike hike hike Matrix Feeding the cat Scepter Zack Attack Zack Attack pitch 1 (of 4): Zack Attack pitch 2 (of 4): The Thrill is Gone: Magically Delicious: Black Magic: You want a piece? What else (i.e. I lost my camera and don't have pics of them)? - Killer Pillar is in fat. - Bobo Like is in and is - Big Sleep is in WI5+ conditions (normally forms as a 6+) - Upper Mummy actually formed... Pete Tapley commented this is the fattest he has ever seen it - Narcolepsy and Lurking Smear were climbed Saturday... both of which come in about as often as Dru gets laid - If you have the winter dance guide book the ice on black magic is down as far as where alex lowe is in the photo... i.e. super fat Basically a lot of routes that are never in are in right now. Don't get me wrong... not all routes are super fat... mummy 2 was on the thin side... but a lot of the routes that never form are in. What are you waiting for? Misc notes: Very cool to get the chance to shoot the shit with Pete Tapley and Greg of Northern Lights... I hope all you cc turds are smart enough to not spray p tapley and lose yet another great conditions resource :tup: Bryan for letting us dirtbag at his place Bryan's girl Laura has earned my nomination for Girlfriend of the Year for cooking a thanksgiving day dinner for 6 dirtbag ice climbers all by herself in addition to letting Bryan go climbing on their anniversary! AMAZING! One of these days I will remember to ask you if you have a sister Gear Notes: Ice tools with a hammer if you climb with Marcus Make sure you have all the ice screws before you start leading the next pitch Approach Notes: Road for both main fork and flanders is cake right now Check conditions before you go as things can change overnight Bozeman Ice Festival this weekend should keep the road in
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Rainy days are running days. http://www.runningmap.com/
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Dude you know it isn't about which area is better... it's about which one has more stuff in. If everything was in every where I would stay in PDX and climb in the gorge... or I'd go here: Check montanaice.com and call Aaron and then tell me if you still think Cody is a better pick over Hyalite for Thanksgiving weekend. I'll give you a hint: smear today gone tomorrow got its second ascent this year
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Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
Though most of you caught it I was kidding about the coffee/bribery thing. If you know me then you know it is usually me that brings the coffee. As long as you are stoked I will go climbing with you. Simple as that. I'm just not going to organize it anymore... if you want to climb it is up to you to PM me and say so. CB: when are you going to call me? I had a great session at the new area last night -
What do you want to see climbed this Winter?
John Frieh replied to scottgg's topic in Climber's Board
Better make that clear to your guide -
What do you want to see climbed this Winter?
John Frieh replied to scottgg's topic in Climber's Board
Cryo/Hydro sub 24 hour link up -
Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
CB: I would *love* to take you out to the new spot. Please please please give me a call and I'll gladly drop anything I am doing and give you a personal tour: 503.758.5772 If you climb half as good as you ride my nuts you should onsight all of the routes no problem. Put up or shut up -
alpha comp hoody at mgear $239
John Frieh replied to dbconlin's topic in On-Line/Mail-Order Gear Shops
If anyone wants a used but in very good shape large red one give me a shout. -
Group of ice climbers is looking for ice climber to make even number. Be able to leave PDX (or meet us some where along the way) either Tuesday 21st (late) or Thursday 23rd (very early) for Hyalite (most likely) or Cody. Have your own gear. Preference will be given to experience but if you are a motivated newbie we might be able to work something out. PM or call me: 503.758.5772
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Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
We don't need to lock this thread... if anything it was hijacked early on and has evolved into the "I live in PDX and want to go climbing" thread which I think is awesome. If you were actually bored enough to reread all 50 pages you'd see the bulk of the posts are for climbing in the summer. I hope people continue to use this thread for PDX climbing... who knows... maybe it will make it to 100 pages The purpose in my post was merely to get the word out that I wouldn't be organizing weekly sessions... that's all. -
All your questions answered. I heart drugs.
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I heard a nasty rumor that the PDX ice festival was such a success that Vertical World is seriously considering holding their own in addition to reconsidering allowing DTing... maybe you could demo them there? Then again it is just a rumor If they do I'll make sure to plan a rocky butte round up or something that weekend
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Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
Perhaps... So after 8 million laps I (and I suspect all of us) needed something more... longer... steeper... harder... etc etc... So we went and built just that. A small group of us have been drytooling on the west side. As this location isn't capable of supporting a large user population as well as being extremely newbie unfriendly (i.e. hard routes) I'm not about to advertise it here. I'll save you the time: no it isn't the bridge but if you don't believe me go hike up there yourself and check. And more than anything I'm just tired. Tired of investing time and effort and gear in every person that came out only to have them bag it after 2 sessions or... have them go do something worse... you know who you are. So I'm done organizing weekly sessions... perhaps someone else will pick up the torch? I'm still game for rocky from time to time especially if you want to trad lead or get practice following/cleaning gear on toolz… we’ll find out how attentive your belays really are . I might be game for a TR session but you better have a good angle... bringing coffee would be a good start If you want the beta on where routes at Rocky are located/rated give me a shout. And as always… if you are the motivated type who won't screw me over give me a shout. Here's to 2 years See you out there J 503.758.5772 -
I got one for sale if anyone is looking
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Beretta PX4 Storm
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So has the arachnaphobia or the great central drip (or black widow for that matter) routes actually been finished to the top of the spider? The topo pic I have suggests that only the black widow has been finished to the top. Wayne ?
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Are you right or left handed?
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Lots of pullups = jacked up elbows. Try this: do sets of 2 pull up very very slow... 10 seconds up 10 seconds down repeat and done. Increase/decrease the time depending on strength. Do 2 every time you walk by your ice tools (mine hang in the garage). This will help your lock off strength and slowly slowly train you for a one arm. Even better do it on a set of dowels or grasp the tool somewhere where you can't "rest" on a pinkie rest or some other location where you can't cheat your grip. I grasp mine 2" below the head. Also if you can don't hook your tools over something... place the pick on a small edge (the smaller the better) to force yourself to be "quiet" on your tools... not a lot of shaking and jerking which if you did that on real ice the placement would blow. Keep your technique honest with small small edges (or better slopers ). Finally tape a picture of current project/goal in location visible during pull ups to maintain stoke. Even better tape around house (especially refrigerator door) to at least reconsider that second beer
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Inside my heart. Oh wait... I don't have one anymore
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I cycled it with a few other supplements throughout my HS years with excellent results... I haven't used it (at least in mass quantities) since then but being able to bench 300 doesn't do shit for rock climbing I think the best first question is why are you lifting weights? What are you hoping to gain from it? Be specific... shoot me an email if you don't want to deal with the anticipated spray
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First 21 weeks of 2006: lived in Phoenix every Tuesday – Friday oh wait... frequent flier miles Jan – April: Hood laps Jan – WA Pass ice Feb – Canmore goodness March – Red Rocks March – smith smith smith April – smith smith smith May – Stuart May – smith smith smith June – City of Rocks June – Rainier Curtis Ridge all free (including permits ) June – Leavenworth July – Index: North Norwegian ass kicking aka I love shuttling loads to lake serene fest July – Gunsight: 2nd ascent West Face of North Peak; 1st ascent South Ridge South Peak July – Bear Mountain – Ursa Major ass kicking; earned rappel magician merit badge July – WA Pass July - young warriors free solo July - Beacon August – Sawtooth trip 1 of 4: Elephants Perch: Mtneer route and Astro Elephant; The Tusk: regular route August - Sawtooth trip 2 of 4: Elephants Perch: Mtneer route and Astro Elephant August – Sawtooth trip 3 of 4: First Ascent SW Face of Baron Falls Tower (Carpal Tunnel); met Josh Ritter August – Team Harro Wedding August - Beacon September - Sawtooth trip 4 of 4: Finger of Fate: Open Book September – Dragontail: Wickwire/Stanley September – PDX ICE FESTIVAL September – WA Pass/Ingalls My knees still haven't forgiven me for July I like climbing. Do you? We should go climbing
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[pimp] [/pimp] Nice toolz dude... are those for sale?!?
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You 38 and you still rappin... ugh I'm 26... so is the dubs