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Everything posted by Blake
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nothing is really a requirement. Thanks for all the ideas guys.
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Tied are more versatile and cheaper.I don't really see the downside, just check your knots.
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Good Call. Ingalls and the Tooth look like possibilites, but they don't have that NoCa wilderness type feel.
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No, and possibly but no solidly. However, I've got a couple of partners. we might end up not doing anything alpine.
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Anyone have recomendations for alpine trad for this weekend? Will be coming from the west side, and wont be able to leave seattle until ~10am sat. I'm thinking something with an approach saturday afternoon, and a climb and hoke out sunday morning, early afternoon. Other than Sahale, what fits this profile? Moderate glacier stuff, and rock up to mid 5th class is what would work. I know i've seen posts like this before, but i was having no luck with the "search" on here.
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Don't forget a ton of webbing. Just get a bunch of 1" and smaller tubular webbing, and cut it to various lengths. If you have a good amount of webbing, and basic carabiners, then a set of nuts (Huevos, Wallnuts, HB offsets, BD stoppers) You can climb quite a bit. Throw in some hexes and a couple cams in the common sizes, and go climb. check out www.rockempire.com www.gearexpress.com www.climbonrock.com www.acmeclimbing.com Shopping those places will let you get good retails deals on most of the products in the thread. Also, get "cosmetic blem" pieces, and save money. Plus this way your gear might not be so shiny and knew, which would only further add to the "total newbie" image you'll be projecting. (it will all still be fully functional)
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played around at Erie with Snowbyrd and Justin. Five or 6 short sport routes 5.5-5.10a
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calm down you two... i pretty much just posted that as a subtle hint to DC saying "hey, i was there first". I didn't mean to come off sounding like an impatient bastard, although sometimes i can be one.
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I'm hopng that the seller is just away from a computer and will get back to us and not either A: ignoring the sale or B: has already sold them and is ignoring emails and PMs other than the first contacts.
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You weren't at Mt. Erie, were you?
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I pmed and emailed him yesterday in the 6 o clock hour saying i wanted the rockcentrics for sure, and i haven't heard a word yet. :-(
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are the hexes on wire or dyneema?
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Climbing partner was threatening to steal my cinnamon roll:
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i heard numerous recomendations about zigzag, orange wall, and powerline wall. Justin and I will see you @ 10.
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Klenke, I've got to correct you on a few things here. The Stehekin road is currently driveable (4wd not needed) up to tumwater camp, 3 miles below bridge creek. The shuttle bus is only running to the Stehekin valley ranch though, wich is 7 miles below bridge creek. Repairs beyond this point will be difficult, as you said. The road is bikeable to cottonwood, but you must eb willing to walk/carry your bike around some washed-out sections. BRinging a bike still saves a lot fo time though. Also, you can't call the Stehekin Ranger district because there are no phone lines.
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During a miserable rain, snow, fog, and annoy "Mountaineer" infested weekend at Cascade Pass I forgot a pair of Black Action Optics sunglasses with a blue strap at the bottome campsite in Pelton basin. Only Worthwhile part of the trip was actually meeting a cool ranger .
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I am doing Mt fernow from Holden Village on Thursday, with a possible start up the copper creek valley route on Wed Afternoon, but that is up in the air. Anyone else want to go? great chance to get up to the state's 8th highest mtn. I can bring Stehekin bakery food along too! PM or post ASAP
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Climb: Tupshin Peak -attept-East Ridge Direct Date of Climb: 7/8/2004 Trip Report: Left Stehekin on Wednesday Morning @ 10AM and hiked up the ridge between Devore and Marjerum Creeks. Rapped down to an alpine camp at about 6400' for the night. Thursday morning we starting roped simul-climbing right away, in and out amongst the pinncles of the LONG east ridge. Eventually we broke out the long rope and started running out protected pitches. Through clouds and little fresh snow we encountered very loose rock, but some nice climbing as well. by 2:00PM we were just a notch away from the summit pinnacle, but we did not have time to make it up and back adn still be home by that night. We did a three-rappel decent into a rocky scree valley on the south side of the mountain , and sidehilled our way around the ridgeback to our stashed gear. We left our 6400' notch at 5:30, and booked it back down the mountain, home by 8:30. Although we didn't make the true summit pinnacle, it was a great trip. THis was my first roped climbing experience, and I probably slowed us down a good deal, but the experience was good to gain. Here are some pics. Gear Notes: Lots of long runners. Rap rings, a few basic chocks. If someone had some small cams, they would have been helpful as well. Approach Notes: The route is brushy and stepp until about 4,500 feet. Then the ridge opens up and it's easy going until the climbing starts at about 6,500'. The best way to get to the summit would be to head down over the ridge and walk up the valley on the South side of the ridge to just below the summit pinnacle. IT would be less climbing than what we did, but more direct.
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I don't fit the late 20s early 30s thingy. Nice try though.
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I'm going to be working in the Stehekin Bakery, which is just under 2 miles from the boat landing. I wont have constant internet access, but might be able to check emails and PMs a few times a week if someone wants to plan a trip. In any case, say hi to me if you come into the bakery, there might be a free cookie or something for CC.Comers.
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Biking downhill (especially on old road beds or trails with bad visibility) while wearing a moderately heavy pack is very fun. Any little dip in the road at all, and you take off.
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Late 60's Natl Geo Magazine Cover shot Question
Blake replied to johndavidjr's topic in North Cascades
Because Cottonwood camp (the start of the brushbash/cimb to Trapper lake) is now a 13 mile hike from the end of the Stehekin Road. The trail to the Pelton Basin dropdown point to trapper lake is also a few more miles from the road due to washouts from Boston Creek. Trapper Lake is an easy 4 hours from Cascade Pass trailhead, though, with no real bushwacking and only a small river ford. Fine fishing in that lake. One of my first ever and still most memorable trips in NOCA was to Trapper Lake with Eric Bindseil, Geoff Radford, Toni et al. Good Times!! Now you have to walk just to get to the cascade pass TH though. Once you get to that ntoch to the left of Pelton Peak/Yawning Galcier (below small cirlce of snow), what's the route into Trapper like? -
Late 60's Natl Geo Magazine Cover shot Question
Blake replied to johndavidjr's topic in North Cascades
Because Cottonwood camp (the start of the brushbash/cimb to Trapper lake) is now a 13 mile hike from the end of the Stehekin Road. The trail to the Pelton Basin dropdown point to trapper lake is also a few more miles from the road due to washouts from Boston Creek. -
Late 60's Natl Geo Magazine Cover shot Question
Blake replied to johndavidjr's topic in North Cascades
The april 1974 National Geographic had a huge story about Stehekin as well. I think that the area on that 1968 cover will receive fewer visitors this summer than any in recent years.