Blake

So how can the b-ham climbing scene be improved if a new gym/shop aint the answer? is it just not possible without a b-ham specific crag? Tuesday-night spray fests at Banditos? I guess I can keep giving out WWU ID cards for whoever wants free access to the fitness center and campus climbing gym.

If you are going to be dropping stuff, don't do alpine/multipitch climbs. Seriously, dropping a boot, shoe, ice tool, helmet, even waterbottle (well almost anything you have) can spell disaster. Don't drop the rack either. When handing something to your team-mate, make sure they have it firmly before you let go.

Mike, you took all of last summer off work/school/responsibilites to play, I don't think you can legitimately complain about not being able to do that once again. Too bad about the crap weather on your spring break!

These would all be good climbs for someone who knows how to lead on gear, but hasn't done it much, hasn't climbed much in the alpine, isn't into big commitment, or doesn't want steep snow or rock harder than 5.6... Rock: Beckey route on Lib. Bell South Arete of S. Early Winter Spire W. Ridge of North Twin R&D route - Icicle Buttress in Leavenworth Snow: SW Couloir of S. Early Winter Spire Mt. Ruth Snow and Rock sections: Sahale via Sahale Glacier get a copy of the red and green editions of the Cascade Alpine Guide and browse through to find more stuff that fits your current skills. read this: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/504056/an/0/page/21#504056

If you are only ever intersted in sport climbing, get 10 or 12 of the cheapest quickdraws you can find and you'll be set. If you think you might get into crack/trad climbing or alpine stuff, just get a bunch (24?) of light wiregate carabiners, and 8 or 10 24" sewn runners, plus a couple 48" runers. These lengths can all be tripled up on sport routes where you don't need a long runner connecting bolt to the rope. If you want stiffly sewn sport draws, you can just buy the nylon webbing cheaply and swap your wiregate carabiners into them for days when you're bolt clipping, and then use your longer more versatile runners on other climbs. keynnosed quckdraws for $10, wiregate quickdraws for $12 also check out: www.gearexpress.com

I actually started using Dru's method and it seems best to me. Gear on the harness, draws/runners on a shoulder sling. I usually put cams small->Big on my gear loops, with a set of nuts in front. For multipitch stuff where you are flipping leads and need to move fast, having a gear sling is better for belay changeovers though.

Neutrinos aren't very good biners! Omega Pacific Dovals are bigger, same weight, less money, more usefull shape. Trango Lightweight Wiregates are cheaper, larger, and equal weight. Trango superflies are bigger, 6 grams less, and equal $$ CAMP nano-wires are the same size, and 6 grams less, and less $$ WC heliums are bigger, keylocking, 3 grams less, but more $$ DMM Shield is bigger, keylocking, 4 grams less, but more $$ DMM Spectre is bigger, fancy colors, 3 grams less, but more $$$ Neutrino's aren't especially good compared to the above models, and English made carabiners are fancy, but costly. Considering weight, price, and size, there is always a better biner than a neutrino, for any use. Plus BD gear is so popular, buck the trend. P.S. Scot'teryx was recently selling superfly wiregates for under $6. give him a PM or email. http://www.questalb.com/ see here: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...amp;Search=true

I think Ross, Sky, the Hummels et al are just super good, super motivated, have the right free time, and enjoy Scurlock's motivators.

weather was good for some whitewater kayaking east of Christchurch this weekend, but missed Castle Hill on the drive home.

thanks CatBirdSeat!

Paisano Pinnacle - Burgundy spire link up! 12ish pitches, 5.7-5.9 range, if I remember correctly.

Here's the Martial Arts news of the century Cars to be protected from birds by ninjas WELLINGTON, New Zealand - Organizers of a vintage car rally reportedly have hired karate experts to protect the vehicles from marauding native parrots. About 40 members of a local karate club have been enlisted to protect the 140 classic cars due to visit an alpine village near Mt. Cook on New Zealand's South Island on Sunday, the New Zealand Press Association reported Friday. The karate experts will protect the cars from Keas, native parrots that have been known to be destructive in their search for shiny items, the news agency said. Denis Callesen, manager of the nearby Hermitage Hotel, said bird lovers need not be concerned the karate experts would use martial arts moves on the parrots, which are a protected species. Their job would simply be to scare the birds away, he said. Local wildlife ranger Ray Bellringer said the karate experts were unlikely to deter the Keas. "They will fly around and laugh," he said. The best method to prevent Keas from damaging vehicles was to squirt them with water pistols, he said.

I thought air guitar was .10a

I've been putting some in the "Cali and everywhere else" forum practically every weekend Joseph. It goes quite well!

I lead about 20!

E, take her to the copper Lantern in downtown Anacortes. good food!

Anyone have a pic of the defectively riveted ones? I'm climbing on one now with a batch # 0605, but postage from NZ would be a big pain.

Maybe it sucks because the climbers argue online over who got fired by whom and why, when they could be doing something usefull or fun. P.S. you both have WWU ID cards I gave you to go use the fitness center and climbing gym...

I'm glad he has that info in there. But like you said, it doesn't help locate the climbs, so if you really don't care about that info, just take it out of the book and recycle it or keep it at home. It's not Dallas' fault that the trail system at Erie isn't very distinct or friendly for first-time users. Erik, try this 3-pitch route next time you're there: P.1 zig-zag (Or frogs in space if you are tough) P.2 Undercover to the snag P.3 Springboard best route out there IMO.

yeah, we saw more kea birds down at timberline (keas are evil alpine parrots) Our route from the NW ridge onto the glacier wasn't "the ramp" we just descended/rapped some ledges before the ridge ended, in order to reach our cached gear before dark.

I'm going to be here until June, hope to keep on enjoying it!

Climb: Mt. Aspiring - New Zealand-SW Ridge Date of Climb: 3/25/2006 Trip Report: Last week I got lucky. I got lucky on the loan of a car, crampons, boots, gaitors, and glacier glasses all for free from friends. It was a good thing that I was able to secure all these loans, because for once the NZ weekend weather looked good for some alpine adventuring. A fellow American and CC.er named Graham and proposed Mt. Aspiring as a possible trip idea, so last Friday morning about 2AM saw Graham and myself rolling into a parking lot at the end of gravel road in Mount Aspiring National Park. The next morning we were awoken to the sound of angry cattle all around. New Zealanders, always on the lookout for the chance to multi-task, had transformed the parking lot into a part-time cattle ranch. After some early morning bovine taunting, we were on our way. We soon discovered that such newfangled ideas as ‘bridges’ and ‘switchbacks’ have not entered the NZ mainstream. Note the ominous clouds above our river crossing… more on these later. We climbed up from the valley floor, which was about 1,200’ up into these dense clouds, and finally hit snow at about 5,500’. Visibility was minimal, and I was fearing a weekend storm. As we traversed our first major snow slope I remarked “Hey Graham, is this a Glacier?” “Not According to the map.” “Pretty good-sized crevasse right there for a snow slope.” … at which point we tied a rope on. We set up our tent Friday night in a blustery white out, sleeping at 6,000’ on the Bonar Glacier. Although it towered over us, we had yet to see Aspiring. However, sometime in the middle of the night, things miraculously cleared up, and we agreed to a 3AM wakeup. Walking across the glacier in the dark, the peak’s SW ridge was both intimidating and inviting. This was going to be my first serious ice/steep snow route, and the freely borrowed crampons proved they were worth every cent I paid for them by frequently wiggling loose. The first part of the route consisted of mixed steep snow and rock, with solid water ice covering sections. Following this part, we climbed up a beautiful steep snow arête, with big exposure down the south face. The snow was very well bonded, and we found good places for some ice screws. The technical crux came in the final 1/3 of the climb, where Graham lead what he rated as WI3 R. As he passed through the steepest beginning section, and large chunks of ice flew by my head, he mentioned that he hoped to leave a little for me as well. However, when I began to follow and climb through the crux, my tools found more rock features than solid ice. Good thing for Portland dry-tooling experience! Soon all that remained was a steep snow slope, and we broke out of the icy gulley into the bright sun. By 2pm we were on the summit, with views of the blue Pacific, and much of the South Island. We were met on top by a couple of local climbers who had ascended the NW ridge. With two ropes, the four of us were able to down climb/rappel the NW ridge back to the glacier fairly smoothly. Plans were made for dinner in town the next night, and we parted ways, getting back to our tent about 7pm. The hike out yesterday morning went much more smoothly than had our fog-bound approach, and we were in town enjoying pizza at the pub by 6pm. Gear Notes: Ice tools/screws/small rock pro Approach Notes: ouch!

Wow, a thread that could be moved FROM spray INTO the Climbing forum!

They have no pennies in NZ and they are now phasing out the nickels as well. Guess i was thinking politician=one who achieves elected office, not someone who is a prominent worker for government change.

No. Susan B. Anthony and Benjamin Franklin. Probably others...