Blake

Any thoughts on what the practical differences between these two models might be for use on all-around climbing, with an alpine emphasis? They weigh the same, cost the same, etc... Trango Extreme Trango Prime

It's because I was wearing the same LA Gear shoes last weekend as on that famous climb day. They are so fashiony, but I struggle to maintain balance and hence take on the catwalk look. I guess I'll never get that LA Gear sponsorship now!

When you move to Colorado you lose the use of your "G" key. They confiscate it at the state line.

Bump... Anyone climb Pangaea?

Nice Tim and Ben! What does Rilikpa mean? Tim, I thought i was drooling over the rock quality but then I realized that it was the shirtless pic of you.

Nice. Peter and I were under the impression that you guys hauled Bush Tallboys up the route rather than sleeping bags. Sounds like they only came along for the 9 hours of bushwacking...

I'm looking for a one-way ride to Rainy Pass/Washington Pass on Friday evening or Saturday morning. I'd be happy to pitch in for fuel and meet you in mt. Vernon, or other points on the west side. Fri 9/19 or Sat 9/20. THANKS!

This is an intersting point. While biking around in the San Juans last summer I randomly got a call from Erik Lambert who does the online stuff for Alpinist. He'd seen the Trip Report that Dan Hilden and I wrote on CascadeClimbers after a trip to the Gunsight range, and wanted a few pictures and a description for the website... how cool! He told me that since Alpinist stopped printing news of new routes, they are trying to have a very active and frequently updated webpage, with user-submitted articles, weekly features, and stories about new routes. I really enjoyed the chance to write a short article, as writing (especially about mountains) is something I like to do. Dan is a photography student who was recently travelling/photographing/climbing in Peru, and was equally excited to get any experience having his photos published, even on a website read by a few thousand people. Alpinist went on to have online features about several other climbs reported here, including Darin Derinka's NW Arayete on Mt. Shuksan, Drew Brayshaw's 'Graveyard Shift' and Craig Mcgee's new climbs on Les Cornes. I don't know if Erik contacted these people, they contacted him, or everyone just used coincidental telepathy. I'm not sure why it would matter either... I think it's neat that Alpinist is running news of new routes, even when they aren't some 5.13X sketchfest. The NW Arayete (III 5.8), like any route I could make it up, is far from cutting-edge. However, it sits in an incredible position, has a good story behind, and seeing it on the Alpinist Newswire inspired me to go check it out! There is no hidden conspiracy behind any of this, and nobody is ever forced to read Alpinist's site. P.S. If we all put our Alpinist submission money together we could buy a piece of penny candy! If we had a penny...

http://www.omakchronicle.com/nws/n080909a.shtml Seattle climber dies in accident near Mazama A 31-year-old Seattle man died in a hiking accident near the Goat Wall in the Methow Valley last weekend. Okanogan County sheriff Frank Rogers said his office received a call around 1 p.m. Monday, Sept. 8, from the climber's wife that Ryan Alan Murray Triplett was overdue from a hiking trip in the Mazama area. Triplett, who is an avid rock climber and cyclist, was supposed to be in the Goat Wall area off of Lost River Road out of Mazama, said Rogers. Hikers in the area discovered Triplett's vehicle and his dog at the base of a cliff, the sheriff said. The sheriff's office, Okanogan County Search and Rescue and Aero Methow Rescue Service were called to the area. At about 2:30 p.m. Triplett’s body was located in a rocky area of what is called "Prime Rib," said Rogers. "It appears that Triplett had been climbing alone and had fallen, possibly sometime on Sunday," Rogers said. "Rescuers were able to climb into the area and recover the body of Triplett." Family members were notified Monday afternoon. He posted here as "RyanTriplett".

I somehow erased most of the good ones. There are lots of van and garage-sized boulders with flat grassy landings.

Has this seen a repeat yet? I don't think so, but there looks like plenty of new route potential there and nearby I haven't heard of any repeats. Any route description that features the phrase "pudding chimney" isn't exactly calling for repeats.

Good job Craig and John! That's a very very long day to go from the trailhead to the top of that route in a push. We must have done a different line on the lower section, definitely found a little 5.10 down there, then lots of brushy simulclimbing to the halfway ledge where we left a cairn and bailed. There was some crazy lighting that made the upper headwall appear filled with chossy roofs, but your photos look good. As Sol told the NCNP people "we're off to climb the Distinct Phallus!"

Get Feathered Friends to make you a down parka with an eVent shell.

You can take your climbing to (several) next levels around here. These routes might be good choices for summer/fall alpinism. Most are grade IV or V and feature 5.10 or 5.11 climbing in beautiful locations, not to mention glacial issues, etc. Several are unrepeated. Beta exists for them all. Most are primarily alpine rock. For Washington: Stuart - Girth Pillar Colchuck Balanced Rock - West Face, The Tempest Dragontail - Dragons of Eden, Boving Route, Dragon Scar Bonanza - NW Ridge via dark pk traverse, 3 summits traverse E->W Gunsight Peaks - E Face, W Face, N->S Traverse Buckner - Complete SE Ridge w/gendarmes Silver Star - Gato Negro Juno Tower - Clean Break Liberty Bell - Freedom Rider, Independence Route, Liberty Crack S. Early Winter Spire - The Passenger, The Hitchhiker Goode - Megalodon Ridge Swiss Peak - North Face Pillar Fury - Mongo Ridge SE Mox Peak - East Face Shuksan - NW Arayete, to the summit via the Labor Day Route Castle Peak - Colorado Route, Hirst/Herrington route (both on central buttress) BC: Take a look at all the TD+ and ED routes in McLane's alpine guide. Slesse - East Pillar, North Rib Les Cornes - Springbok, Spring Cocks Bardean - Hidden Pillar Vienesse - N Face, Derektissima, Bohemian Rhapsody I'd love to hear how some of these go, or see a TR and pictures if you give them a shot!

Drive Hwy1 East from Hope. All distances are given in miles. For the gravel roads you will want a high-ish clearance car. Subaru Outback was ok when very careful. ~27 miles: Cross huge bridge, about .5 miles past the bridge, take a right on the Nahatlatch FS Road. This is in the vicinity of a hwy maintenance shed type complex. The road quickly begins by turning steeply up and right. All mileages on these gravel logging roads are in miles, and should be exact. Set the odometer when you turn off Hwy1. 1.8 MilesVeer right @ road fork near old bus/junk 3.8 MilesGate here, it was open on a Saturday, but a key in hand would be wise. 7.1 Miles VERY important sharp left turn up a steep hill. Missing this sharp left turn will bring you immediately to another gate, which we found open. Don't go through the gate, go left before it. 10 Miles Old logging camp infrastructure. 11.5 Miles Big bridge (shortly followed by smaller bridge off to the left) 13.7 Miles Junction with S. Anderson Road. Stay left on North Anderson. 15.1 Miles Junction of North Anderson and a spur road leading off to the right (south) towards roads 600 and 610. Take the RIGHT turn, leaving North Anderson Main. 15.8 Miles Park here, where a small clearing exists at the beginning of road 610. This is unmarked and the old road is now a trail with alders invading quickly. Several small fire rings exist. Hiking Approach: Hike South on the old roadbed of road 610. Evidence of alder pruning exists at first. Follow this road/trail, keeping the creek down and to your right. Don't turn off this road, but follow it south until you are opposite Steinbok peak, above where a long strip of old-growth timber extends downslope on the opposite side of the valley. Bash and thrash your way down to the stream, cross it, and head up into the strip of old-growth, where a recently improved trail leads to open alp slopes below Steinbok, Les Cornes, Chamoix, etc.

Hey John, did you make it up to the top? I'd be eager to hear how it went above the 1/2way mark. Great work getting on that thing. The bottom half was brushy but had good rock, thought approaching from up the Neve valley is character building. The top half looked like the rock turned to garbage, but I'm sure you'd know better than we would. Either way, it's a wild valley back there and a pretty huge feature, eh? I imagine John Roper didn't tell you that we'd tried the climb cause he likes to keep a bit of mystery about things and we were considering a re-attempt. The reason I didn't post step-by-step Gunsight approach directions is because there's certainly enough (tons!) of obvious beta out there to figure out where to leave the trail and walk up the hillside to open alpine slopes above. Since both parties who received my approach beta felt sandbagged by it, I'm not sure it's really useful.

It's about 5 miles from Newhalem.

Totally last-minute... Anyone available for some alpine granite this weekend? 3 people, looking for a 4th. Headed to the Anderson River area of SW B.C. Routes are along the lines of TD+ 5.10+

That's really stupid. I completely disagree that spray painting "Balls" or curse words is the same as using chalk on a hold. Sure they are both visible, but one is permanent, generally rude/offensive, and serves no other constructive purpose. It's sad how this thread is a microcosm of cc.com though. Someone actually posts a serious topic and offers to do the community a clean-up service, and they hardly receive any help. In order of severity and potency, I'd try these things: Rubbing Alcohol and Brush 3M Adhesive Remover http://www.shop3m.com/62466749306.html?WT.mc_ev=clickthrough&WT.mc_id=shop3m-AtoZ-General-Purpose-Adhesive-Remover'>http://www.shop3m.com/62466749306.html?WT.mc_ev=clickthrough&WT.mc_id=shop3m-AtoZ-General-Purpose-Adhesive-Remover But I bet this is the way to go... Lift Off - Environmentally friendly graffiti remover http://www.shop3m.com/62466749306.html?WT.mc_ev=clickthrough&WT.mc_id=shop3m-AtoZ-General-Purpose-Adhesive-Remover http://www.doityourself.com/stry/motsenbocker4

In its current mossy state, I can think of several free climbs that I'd personally rate as better. One of them is within shouting distance to the left. If it were totally clean, I think it'd be up there with some of the better ones, but a couple of the pitches aren't much to write home about.

I don't think Sol is any better of an artist than I am, so we didn't think about drawing a topo. Here's a written description that should have more than enough info: The route begins significantly lower than the "West Face" route. All pitches are very well protected, and we are guessing it will go free (except the roof) at 5.11. Begin below the enormous roof. P1) Up and left into a R-Facing slabby corner, leading to a tree and steeper wall. From above the tree, belay at base of mossy corner. P2) Up the splitter cracks to the base of the roof. P3) Out the roof, second half is 2" sustained. One fixed cam at lip of roof. Up to 'Yin-Yang' ledge 15' above lip of the roof. P4) Move right on flakes and knobs into long corner, and up to the top. Will be a classic pitch when clean. P5) Up low 5th class ground to the base of vertical streaked headwall. P6) Up a R-Facing corner to a pillar top, then step out right and onto the wall. Climb into a cave and belay. P7-P8) We short-fixed these and ran them together. You are climbing a vertical wall, past one roof, and on splitter cracks. Everything from small offset nuts to #3 camalots can be used. It would also go as one pitch. Belay at the base of a flaring corner with smaller crack in the back. P9) Up the flare, then follow splitter L-Facing corner (.75") to a fixed-pin belay, supplemented by RPs. P10) Make the great escape by climbing up and right, and then back left through a little chimney to flatter ground. P11-14?) Follow blocky and easy terrain (steps of mid-fifth) up and to the summit ridge, where class 3 ground leads to the summit. We did this with headlamps and I can't recall a lot except for climbing up under a giant chockstone feature, and tunneling out the right side for an escape.

Darin, did you guys leave a #2 camalot on the summit? Complete East Ridge of Silver Star looks fun, especially if not getting snowed on.

Trip:Silver Horn - Playin' Not Sprayin' - III 5.10 Date: 8/31/2008 Trip Report: http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/medium/Topo_Silver_Horn.JPG Armed with the prospect of cold and stormy weather on an August weekend, myself an David Trippett (AviTripp) headed east to a beautiful valley on the forgotten side of Silver Star Peak with thoughts of unclimbed granite and storm avoidance. http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/medium/IMG_12861.jpg The objective was a clean-looking spire known as The Silver Horn, an apt name given the white granite on its flanks. Red arrow marks the spot. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/upload/471706-silverhorntopo.JPG We woke up on the morning of the 31st to ice and frosty conditions, a theme that would continue throughout the day. After some steep alpine travel to get the blood pumping, we reached the base of the wall. From the base we climbed 8 pitches of cracks, flakes, and corners, with the occasional loose funk. A ledge splits the face at mid-height. Below the ledge we were to the left of " The Chalice" (Berdinka/Thibault '05) and it looks like we started off the halfway ledge to the right of their climb. The finishes were certainly separate, but we may have shared some ground around p7. P1 Begins with a big clean flake, before moving right to the base of a long corner. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/IMG_1327.jpg P2 & P3 Follow the corner on nice cracks. http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/medium/Lower_pitch_lead.JPG http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/medium/IMG_1376.jpg http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/medium/IMG_1380.jpg P4 Avoids the chossy roof with flakes and splitters off to the right. Snow and ice began to fall on us during this pitch, and frosty white flakes continued for much of the day. P5 From the ledge, David drew the lead, and embarked on a really nice pitch sustained at 5.10. This involved some roofs, mantles, and a long corner crack. http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/medium/upper_pitch_lead.JPG P6 Stayed through the corner, before moving out right to a pedestal belay. http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/medium/IMG_14461.jpg http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/medium/IMG_1450.jpg P7 Began with some loose funkiness before a great stemming corner and steep crux moves. http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/medium/IMG_14672.jpg P8 We finished straight up the chimney to the summit. Pictures don't do it a whole lot of good, but the climbing was really fun, solid, and hard to the finish. http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/medium/IMG_1470.jpg From what felt like a cave in the middle of the summit, a frozen-fingered pullup and mantle move around a little roof landed us on the top of the spire. Overall this was a fun time in a beautiful and less-frequented corner of the Washington Pass. Thanks to Darin for the trip suggestion! http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/medium/IMG_1322-1.jpg Gear Notes: Doubles of cams and a set of nuts. Bring Rappel stuff or be prepared to use what was probably Fred Beckey's shoe string... Approach Notes: Up The Cedar Creek trail - turn right at the creek crossing draining the objective face.

Nice write-up Sol! This was a blast... totally wild climbing. What a treat to be able to alpine climb in those conditions. Sol was a speedy aid rope-gun and the route will be a classic free climb, even if you aid through the "Colchuck Reality" roof.

Darin, it's not my fault that you and Matt are old and slow. Dan and I went from the creek to blue glacier camp in 5 hours. I think it took John and I a similar time. Just cause you are twice as old, doesn't mean it should take twice as long! There was seriously no attempt to sandbag, sorry if it ended up that way. :-) In July, I think there would be lots of time to climb Sol's East Face route on the day you get to camp. (We did the E face of the South Peak). Given the shorter days of September, it would be a lot more difficult. Climb the Cannonhole route on the day you get there. The way John and I started is via a really fun diehedral and face climbing pitch. Sol, I'll give you the beta this weekend. Also, just check your email.