Blake

I have not done Triassic Sands, but I think Cloud Tower might also be in the running for best RR route. Where on Wholesome Fullback did you think there was serious/likely potential for injury? The walkoff from Lev 29 is also really pretty and not brushy or loose.

Index has the world's best route names. I want to pitch in to buy "Brad Driscol Outnumbered his Guests, but a good time was had by all."

I wrote this up for something else, but it came across too "ranty." Does anyone actually have one of these devices or think they will stay in production? One of the most ridiculous items available today is the Black Diamond ATC-Sport For those unfamiliar with the ATC- Sport, picture Black Diamond's famous tube-style belay device, the ATC. Now take this device and cut off one of the two rope slots. The result is a unique belay device with significantly fewer uses than the original ATC. Instead of moving forward, a la the new generation of auto-locking belay devices this represents a clear step back. The ATC-Sport cannot be used to rappel on two strands of a rope, cannot belay on double or twin ropes, and don't even think about auto-lock belaying your followers. Surely this lack of function must come with a few benefits like weight or cost, right? The $16.95 suggested retail price is $2 less than the standard ATC, but the single-slot ATC-Sport (60 grams) outweighs the original device by 10 grams! If one is willing to overlook the cache of a BD logo, Ocun's 41-gram Belay Device , a two-slot ATC clone, is available for only $15.95. Climbers should expect these two-slot belay devices to last much longer than an ATC-Sport, as rope wear is spread evenly over an area twice the size. However, many ATC-Sport devices will never wear out, as permanent abandonment to the back of one's gear shelf lends remarkable longevity to climbing hardwear.

K for Kalenius?

There are so many, I am sure there are a lot more. How about... (generally South to North) Vanishing Point or NW passage on Dolomite Tower Dragons of Eden on Dragontail Dragon Scar on Dragontail The Tempest Wall on CBR Der Sportsman on Prusik Peak North Face of Bonanza (Rock rib in summer, anything in winter) Soviet Route on Bonanza South Face of Dome North Face of Bannock Gunsight Traverse (anything on the Gunsight Range) This crazy & exciting looking thingy. It might be a animal-planet adventure full of crazy critters and tasty Huckleberries. Just don't take it for granite. http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/87239171 Complete SE Ridge of Buckner W/Gendarmes North face (east)mixed routes on Buckner (Copa Cobana, etc) NW Ridge of Logan Supercouloir ice and snow chimney on N. Face of Mantis Yvon Chouinard route on Cutthroat Most big faces in the Pickets (north Faces on Twin Needles) NE Face of Tower Diamond on Bear North Face on Castle (would love to see a repeat) Colorado Route, or Hirst/Herrington Route. The aproach is easy and the camping superb. Steinbok - NE buttress East Pillar on Slesse North Face on Vienesse Hidden Pillar on Bardean I am not at all saying I am a good enough climber to climb all these things, but I bet you'd find a lot of adventure, as well as some of the best or hardest alpine routes in the Lower 48 (plus southern BC). I think you could take a year off work and easily make attempts at all these routes for less than the cost of that Pumori trip.

Hey Marc and Braydon, I started climbing at 18 or so, definitively giving you two the jump on me by few years, but there is a lot of benefits to starting young and I think you guys are well on your way. However, I think instead of needing to raise several thousands of dollars and fly halfway around the world, you can definitely find some full-on alpine adventures in the WA and BC! There is a reason that SO many of America's best alpinist have come from WA. I can think of a ton of routes that haven't seen 2nd ascents (or firsts) and would for sure give you all the adventure and excitement you could hope for! I would be glad to suggest a few if you wanted some ideas, and could almost guarantee you wouldn't see another party of climbers nearby. As far as sponsorships, most companies are very reluctant to just fork over cash to two young climbers without a history of strong ascents. If or when a company wanted to sponsor you, it would likely be through the donations of gear, or 'sample' gear. It would be easier to have this happen if you were taking part at high-profile climbing events or had won a specific grant and already had the money/planning/climb concept in the bag for your trip. Very few climbers of any discipline are straight-up paid a salary or stipend. Your chances of getting donations to pay your guide fee on a Himalayan peak are basically zero.

If anyone climbs this direct (left) start to the NY gulley, there is a #1 camalot there, left by myself and partner (Sol). IT should be bootyable. If you want to return it, that would be rad. If not, it should be fine to climb on, might need a new sling. It is located a couple rappels below the dead snag belay, detritus of a failed early-season attempt. IF climbing the normal start you really wont be close to it.

IS there a type of knot that can be used to tie string or cord around the corner or a tarp, or sheet? I thought I recalled seeing a diagram, but cant think of the name. IT would work when there is no grommet or tie-out place on the corner of a sheet. THANKS!

Nice Chad and Dan... that must have been satisfying to finally see the route through to the top.

I need a large-microwave sized box brought from vancouver, wa to Seattle this evening or tomorrow. If anyone is driving up, or knows ANYONE who is, i'd be happy to give them $20 to bring it up. It's climbing gear and nothing illegal. I could meet them anywhere in the seattle area. thanks a lot! give a ring: 206 779 seven five two six -Blake

I have new copies of the 2008 Red Cascade Alpine Guide, and a new copy of the 2008 american alpine journal. Both are brand new. Retail is $35, how about $20 each? Thanks

Tabor Massif MasTiff You guys just did the dog route...

Wayne Wallace told me he's done two of the routes off the beach. I am not sure which two.

Trip: Life's a Beach - Gorge Ice Date: 12/20/2008 Trip Report: I went out to the Gorge with Tim Holscher this week, we ended up making three trips, each was fun and certainly no day was like the other two. Tim thinks the best ice climbing in Oregon is in Washington. Flows off the beach are all pretty continuous for 75-80m. Tim led the harder pitch, and took the better pictures. Come to think of it, he brought the hot coffee too. hmmm... not so sure what I contributed to this.

Lowell, does that video of you and Gordy on the Golden Horn exist anywhere? In those archives?

There is a fairly important plate-sized foot flake halfway up "The Humbling" that is going to come off soon. Route 70.5 in the Ozone guide(the 5.11 to the left of "The Humbling" and "the Crumbling") has TERRIBLE rock up to the point where you can clip your first piece, which is not a bolt, but yellow webbing tied to an angle piton driven into a horizontal on a ledge (impossible to inspect from below). In the event of a fall, this pin is loaded straight out, not down. Above this, the only stopper placement I could find to protect the next runout is a jingus BD #3 size slotted atop another flexible flake, this is when you have almost finally arrived at bolt #1.

Hi Drew, The CAG briefly mentions Spring Cocks Erect as being to the right of Springbock arete, then again makes reference to a "direct start" to springbok arete. For the purpose of clarity: Spring Cocks begins to the left of Springbok, joins it after 3 pitches, then soon leaves it and finishes up to the right. This is the direct start suggested by Craig here on cc.com and on Alpinist. Voodoo Child can also be used as a direct start (avoids even more of Springbok), but isn't mentioned at all by name in the new CAG (it begins and ends left of Springbok but is 6 pitches, so its probably the variation in question). The GateKeeper is not mentioned either, its quite a bit further left, up the slope.

Here are a list of routes not included in the Red CAG and errors in the book. This is not meant in any way to be a criticism of the guide or author, I think the CAGs are amazing books. Most routes were done after the publication deadline, which was early last summer. Others were not included for various reasons. Definitely add to the list here, and add them to your new red CAG! Peak - Page - Route - Etc Shuksan - Pg 67 - NW Arayete - Darin Berdinka and Matt Alford III 5.8 - route goes through the "S" in the word "slide" Pg 68 Route begins directly above (not left of) the "1" in 1939. E. McMillan Spire - Page 100 - Northeast Buttress - Alan Kearney and Erik Johnson -IV 5.10a SE Mox - Lemolo Peak - Pg 134 - NE Buttress- Eric Wehrly and Rolf Larsen - Grade V and 5.10- FA of the peak Castle Peak - Page 213 - Hirst/Herrington 'Fight or Flight' - - Peter Hirst and Blake Herrington - Grade IV 5.10+ , left margin of "North Buttress East- 1993) Les Cornes - Page 260 - Anderson River area of SW B.C. Voodoo Child, Sprung Cock Erect, and The Gatekeeper (5.11 and 5.12a) -Craig Mcgee and Others- 2006 Star Peak - Page 285 - Northwest Ridge (From Fish Creek Pass) climbed by Rolf Larsen and John Mailhiot 9/7/97 III 5.7 Courtney Peak - Page 287 - North Face - III 5.10 -Forest McBrian and Tasha Mcilveen Silver Horn -Page 303 - Playin Not Sprayin - III 5.10 - Blake Herrington and David Trippett 2008 Pernod Spire - Page 304 - Indirect West Face - III 5.10 - Peter Hirst/Dan Cappellini/Rolf Larsen Pernod Spire - Page 304 - Direct West Face - III+ 5.10+ Ross Peritore and Tony Bentley Big Kangaroo - Page 317 - Kearney/Thomas (South Face-Right) - FFA Ross Peritore and Eric Wehrly - 5.11a Big gear Pica/Poster Peak/Pk 7565 - Page 328 - Blue Buttress Scott Johnston 2003 Tower Mountain - Page 383 - SE Ridge (Left skyline) - Grade III 5.10 - Blake Herrington/Rad Roberts 2008 - may have been done earlier. Varden Creek Spire - Pg 305ish - North Arete Scott Johnston and Larry Goldie III 5.9 -2007 Molar Tooth - http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=727610 West Face - II 5.8 Triumph - SW Rib III 5.8 - Mike Layton and Wayne Wallace ERRORS Error - Page 214 - "1979" arrow on Castle Peak should be directed one buttress to the right (angling feature) Error - Page 233 - Topo for Left-Side route on MF Buttress is wrong, should be drawn to match written description on page 233 Error - Page 285 - FWA of Oval Peak was not made by Blake Herrington/Chris Simmons Error - SEWS - Page 340 - The Passenger - Consensus grade IV 5.11c Error - Page 332 - White-Yellow Headwall Crack on South Early Winter Spire should be 5.10-, not 5.10+ & Direct start from below to "Two dead snags" is 5.10c - Paul Butler and Larry Goldie Mojo Rising on SEWS, featuring a rappel-bolted P1 was included in the book, despite earlier statements from Fred about excluding such routes in Alpine areas. Anyhow, my secondhand beta on the route from some locals is that is was a lot of fun!

I've got 2 copies of the new edition of the Red CAG for sale. This has updated info on access to pickets, etc as well as new routes in Canada, WA Pass, Etc. $20 each. (I think they are $35 in the book store) Thanks

Awesome trip, must have been hard without Kevin to join. Great pics, just like last year's trip - http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=733042 This one reminded me of one of my own:

Size 41 or 8.5 $20 In good shape and not smelly. I can drop off in Bellingham, Seattle, or portland.

Edited - Now cheaper

Edited - lower prices.

sold

These are some great bibs, with reinforced inner ankle patches, full-length leg zips (waterproof), a crotch zip, built-in kneepads and chest pockets. They are made of Polartec and Schoeller and recently had new DWR applied. The two small spots on each legs are dabs of seam grip, not holes or tears. They are otherwise like new. Arcteryx no longer makes Softshell bibs, so I don't know the model name. I'm asking $150 OBO I think they retailed for ~$400 or so. I can drop them off in Bellingham, Seattle, Portland, or SLC.