olyclimber

A friend of mine was kicked in the head by Henry Rollins. He said it was a real honor, and that he'll always remember this time spent with Henry. bottoms up!

Climb: Undisclosed Location - Blood on the Grade Cracks - IV 10d R Date of Climb: 8/13/2005 Trip Report: Sick of hearing about all the poser wannabees posting their little climbs and beating their chests, Alpinfox and I headed out to climb in a new secret climbing spot in the Cascades that is so cool, mainly because you don't know about it and it is so hard you'll never climb it. It was dark stormy night, and the forecast didn't look good, so we headed out. We drove all night, and because neither of us had slept for days, we did caffienated GU shots and washed them down with Starbucks Frappacinos which were chilled in the cooler. When we reached the secret location that you'll never know about, we grabbed our packs and started hiking at a pace that would make your couch potato heart explode. The approach: We climbed over 4 passes, and then stopped for breakfast. GU shots and diet pills hit the spot, and we upped the pace. Pass #3: We couldn't resist snagging the FAs on a few peaks we passed on the trip up to our climb: Finally we hit the techical rock, and I let Alpinfox lead up the first 6 pitches: This pitch was followed by some face climbing: I took the next 7 pitches: Alpinfox on the false summit: The views were great: Finally, at 2am and 11 pitches later, we reached the true summit: On the summit we called AAJ and Alpinist magazine with our sat phone to report our incredible climb. We then rapped off into the dark: It was truely a special time out in the alpine, but one that only a few people can appreciate, because this accomplishment is truly at a level that 99% of you couldn't even comprehend. We called our climb "Blood on the Cracks", as Alpinfox is a big Dylan fan, and I lost three pints in early in the climb when I got gashed on the wrist by rockfall. It goes at Grade IV 10d R. Gear Notes: If you don't know what to bring, you shouldn't be up there in the first place.

I once knew somebody who had a cousin who was best friends with the sister of Stone Gossard. He's that guy in the band Pearl Jam.

After reading that, part of me wishes you'd delete the post and keep it your secret (but thats at little selfish of me isn't it? ). Great job. Sounds like a wonderful time in a less traveled area. Its getting harder and harder to find a spot where you can go for 7 days and not see another person.

Sweet, thanks for the TR. Glad you and the client made it down OK. I guess the lost film means no photos to share, eh?

the sun

“somebody is going to die!!!”

I sometimes wondered why it was that nobody except me fancied that he was looked upon with aversion?

Thanks for posting the TR and photos. Awesome.

I'll chip in.

Alpinfox spends most of his money on velcro gloves.

its on my calendar. anywhere in the Icicle or near L'worth would be fine with me.

Sept 17 weekend would work best for me.

My little sendbot and I are in, depending on the date.

Stop it with your PMs! No there is no discrimination. We take steel faced cartoon guys and gals too. But you better tip!

All my clients reach the top.

At work in the office I never looked at anyone, and was perfectly well aware that my companions looked upon me, not only as a queer fellow, but even looked upon me -- I always fancied this -- with a sort of loathing.

Squid, let me know if you need a guide this weekend!

I keep telling you people, I'm not gay. (Not that there's anything wrong with that.) Why the long face?

Well, if the food is good, and they tip you off on the choice cuts and freshest fruits, then maybe they are worth a bigger tip.

what a cute couple you two would make!

You clearly need a guide to understand this stuff. That'll be $375.

if he fills your bottle after he puts out? $75.

Its on the back of the release you sign: summit climb: $50 just to rim: $35 top of the Cleaver: $20 Ingraham flats: $10 Camp Muir: 50 cents Be sure you tip them in front of everyone, and say "thanks for the ride" salaciously.

but definitely not