curtveld

a few wannabes think it's relevant since it got written up in that Weekend Rock book..

And very few of these lines have had first descents yet. Some real opportunities for bold skiers.

I can imagine the reassuring words at the rope-up: "The good news is that the scariest climbing is behind you! The bad news is we have to walk back DOWN that thing" Great story Mark - the crazy things we did when we were young!

A multi-pitch 5.7 or 8 with solid pro - wouldn't that be cool! There really isn't anything of length up there easier than 5.9. Having some easier stuff would attract some novice slabbers and expand the appreciation of that valley in the process.

Yeah, it's great that the modern route developers are putting in so much time and hardware to make well protected routes. Years ago, looking for a forgotten classic, I did something in the Smoot book called 'West Slabs' right of where Westward Ho is somewhere. The crux pitch was 30' to 1/4" bolt, 30 more feet to a 5.8 overlap move and about a 100 feet of featureless grainy friction to a crappy anchor. Good times.

Although Darrington is known for it’s superb multi-pitch climbs, all that have done any exploring know there are some amazing single pitches up there to be savored. To kick off the discussion, here are a few all-time greats in my book: • Dreamer pitches #6 & 7 (i.e. Blue Crack and Undercling pitches, both 5.9, can’t decide which is better). So much variety in those two pitches: slab, huecos, underclings, nubbins, jagged flake crack , with gear and bolts. Oh, and watch for rope drag.... • "Flange pitch" #4 on Dark Rhythm (10c). Slab climbing to arête with nubbins. A unique feature for sure. • Third pitch on Urban Bypass (10b). Slopy knobs of increasing difficulty to a crimpy final traverse. • Pitch #2 of a great 3-pitch climb (name unknown) on the Comb (5.8). Improbable meandering up swirly dikes and features. Maybe I’ll post a topo and/or take some photos some day, or you can go discover it yourself, like I did. It's raining up there, so lets see more pics or nominate your own favorite pitches. Not trying to ignore the Squire side, just haven't done many of the newer classics over there yet.

Absolutely true, especially for a novice. Let the tough guys spout, but my guess is the Cascadian would be a good outing for Khu. After the long gully you'd get some good step kicking and finish with nice granite scrambling to the summit. And then you've got the descent dialed when you're ready for one of the ridge climbs.

A fine accomplishment! What I should have been doing 20 years ago.

I'd go along with most of Jim's advice. Specifically, don't rely on rest to fix it - just leads to atrophy and imbalance. Running is not great, but for me the bad actor was soccer! In addition to the inevitable collisions, just kicking the ball puts a LOT of stress on the hips. Hated to give it up because it's such a great rain/shine winter activity.

Wow - spectacular! A to your sitter. Less climbing = more energy for imaginative photography?

Me too. He made all those junky Oregon climbs look awfully cool. Something about the B/W photos with the little red hand-drawn flags on the summits!

Did it last year in early Sept and it was in excellent condition. This year should be generally similar, slow melt behind a long cool spring. Hard to tell if the late drought had much of an impact. Would check with Park Service at PA, if you haven't.

Unless I'm misreading something, the Beckey guide says the FA was Firey & McCarthy 1971 (presumably in boots). BTW, I think Sunshine has the makings to become the PNWs first climbing super-model!

Yeah Brett, way to get on the TR scoreboard! Next time, maybe consider looking for opportunities to photograph each other...you know... sleeping, or scowling or just looking stupid. Otherwise, you'll be getting lots of calls from the Patagonia catalog folks.

Awesome weekend and photos T! Way to keep the faith through some marginal weather. Also cool that there is something up there that doesn't require 10+ climbing. Sounds like the effort for the MP approach is semi comparable to Green Giant?

Very solid accomplishments for a 4 day outing! Fabulous photos, especially the old man's beard shot (third to last)

Trip: LeConte Mountain - NE Face Date: 9/14/2012 Trip Report: LeConte Mountain gets little attention from climbers (and no TRs here), perhaps because it is a modest peak with a very long approach. Most ascents are side trips by travelers of the classic Ptarmigan Traverse that scramble the route in benign summer conditions. Few are aware that LeConte takes on a more serious character after the first fall storm. Encountering such “fall conditions”, Andy and I climbed the “Indirect NE Face”. Although our line resembles an established route (termed “Route” and unrated in the Beckey guide), we feel that the snowy conditions and bits of verglas made for a fundamentally different undertaking. In fact, we believe that the route’s mixed character, requiring some genuine climbing, places it in a rather select group of North Cascade climbs requiring flexible alpine skills. Some will find this description overstated, but we like the idea that humble LeConte could have a route of that caliber. The overall rating was AI1, Class 3+, M0, 300m. LeConte Mountain in the upper right Our NE Face route follows steep snow up to the shadowed left edge. From there, ascend to reach a rightward traverse. Then directly up to the notch and rightward to the summit. Looking back across the rightward traverse. The valley smoke is from the nearby Agnes Creek fire, still small. Andy, relieved to be on the summit South Ptarmigan peaks and the shrinking South Cascade Glacier Reversing the M0 traverse on the descent Gear Notes: Less gear = more boldness Approach Notes: Ptarmigan Traverse

Nice solo mission! Hopefully worth the sore ankle, anyway...

Wow, that's some cool climbing and country I was entirely unaware of! What's the length/rating of that route?

Trip: Ptarmigan Traverse North - Date: 9/11/2012 Trip Report: Andy, Pam and I took advantage of the amazing September weather with a venture down to Yang Yang Lakes and back. Not sure if any of you are familiar with this obscure area, but it is remarkably scenic! And quite empty of humans this time of year. The views were slightly different with the dusting of snow on the peaks and fall colors. Jo’berg dusted with the fall’s first snow Spider and Formidable from Cache Col Huckleberry slopes near Koolaid Lake Heading out toward Yang Yang – cold and windy! Pam working her French technique to reach the Red Ledges On the Ledges Heather benches and snowy rubble slope approaching Formidable On the traverse SW of Spi-For col South Yang Lake, camp #2 Looking back north across the Yangs to Spi-For col, en route to LeConte summit Andy, oblivious to dawn over the LeConte Glacier (left) and Peak (right) The locals have been using the Traverse for generations The little guy whined nervously when we passed; mama was completely focused on her harvest Near Cascade Pass, preparing to rejoin the multitudes Pam's cool shot of the huckleberry glow Gear Notes: Puffy things Crampons Jim Beam Approach Notes: Cascade Pass trail to Mixup Arm and southward No moat or crevasse issues

South Arete, SEWS. Opinions vary on how hard the crux move is (low 5th - 5.8) but it's one move about 10' off the groud and the rest is easy. West Ridge North Twin. Class 3, but long, fun and alpine. Mtn bike in, steep snow on descent. South Twin is similar but bigger and not quite as airy. LOTS of entertaining and scenic class 3 & 4 options as well, including Sahalie.

Very cool. Way to take it on in 'mixed' conditions!

Great TR, great mountain, but.....can it be that out of five climbers, there were... no cameras

That would be Mont Blanc. Thanks....kinda figured as much

Good stuff! Ingalls is always a nice backup for the big Stu when things don't go your way. Here's another fun option for avoiding that gully.