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Rad

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Everything posted by Rad

  1. Yes, this is a wonderful thing to give people, and in the long run it's far more valuable than a move by move beta spray. In my book, if there is no uncertainty there is no adventure. Preserving that uncertainty for future explorers and climbers is valuable.
  2. Thanks. Look forward to the pics. I do know Trevor. He has endless energy, scales steep snow in mushy running shoes, has an ape index of +21, and puts three knee bars into every line he climbs because its part of his religion.
  3. Wow. Lucky to survive that one. Looks like a very quick rescue by the NPS.
  4. Do it! You can put it in the forum based on location.
  5. Gotcha. I am not familiar w the EU alpine grading system (just looked it up). We have some excellent local climbing guides, though Beckey is still a great resource. Mountain Project will have lots of info. You should find something awesome. Tip: weather can be unstable through early July, so it's usually a good plan to have two or more objectives in different zones in mind and choose one at the last minute based on conditions. Have fun!
  6. Regarding skills, there are lots of great videos and books. One amazing series that is geared toward more experienced climbers but has mental aspects that apply to everyone is Alpne Mentors w Steve House, You can also learn a lot from experienced partners, but guides have many years of training that you're not going to get reading the internet or climbing with your friends. Hiring one can be a great way to climb a classic and have both you and your partner learn a ton along the way (I'm not a guide BTW). There are also local courses. It sounds like you're pretty experienced already, so you can just go. You'll naturally learn from a network of partners you build over time, like many of us old guys did. So you want ski mountaineering? Liberty Ridge is a prize, but timing is everything to avoid objective hazards. We usually have a thread on it here. Emmons is a great early season line, mostly an endless 30 degree walk in crampons. It's the typical ski descent for LR. Turns all year may be a great place to go for more skiing-focused outings. If you've done back country rock up to 5.8+ and roadside ice to 4+ you should be good to go on lots of PNW classics. End of May is pretty early, but you might be good on some volcanoes then. It all depends on the storm cycle and temps as we get closer. Alpine rock usually isn't dry unless it gets several days of sun, but there are a few exceptions. Look things up on mountan project AND read TRs on this site to get a lot more climbing ideas and conditions beta. One simple way to learn the alpine elements is to go out scrambling on snow and rock in the alpine. Increase the difficulty over time. Learn to read the conditions and see how they evolve in different weather cycles. Go get a Beckey Guide (or three) and read it and start going on trips! You'll come to know Fred and our local climbs and history. Be safe and have fun!
  7. Wow! Thanks so much for posting. So much of big mountain climbing has nothing to do with climbing. Reminds me old war strategists who knew that the logistics of housing and feeding your troops was the key to winning, perhaps even more than the actual fighting. As someone who's trekked in Nepal (Kangchenjunga region), I can empathize with many of the challenges in the first part of your story.
  8. Done. Thank you. It is important for climbers to show up and be seen and heard in order to have a seat at the table when decisions are made.
  9. Voted and shared w climbers on FB
  10. Wow, that's quite a collection! I'd be interested in looking at a few. How do you want to handle that? PM? FWIW I'm fully vaccinated.
  11. Happy earth day! Spoiler: you won't save the earth or anything else by reading the internet and posting on the internet. You have to get out there and DO something (and not do other things).
  12. Where's my dark lord title?!?!
  13. Many have expressed concerns about this "book". From another thread: "Consider reading this thread before you kickstart/buy this: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/120263239/thoughts-on-this-newb-guidebook
  14. New viral variants, including 'super viruses' come from naturally occurring mutations. There is a chance of a genetic error (mutation) every time a new copy of the virus is made. More people infected = more virus copy events = more chances of mutations = higher chance more dangerous viral variants will emerge. Fewer people infected = fewer virus copy events = lower chance of mutations = lower chance more dangerous viral variants will emerge. How do we have fewer people infected? Vaccines and masks and social distancing. Vaccines don't cause mutations, they train your immune system to recognize and fight the virus. I'm very sorry your white supremacist ex-potus linked politics to the pandemic. His harmful messaging caused hundreds of thousands more deaths than if he'd just listened to doctors and scientists and advocated masks from the beginning. Every living POTUS EXCEPT 45 got vaccinated live on TV and encouraged others to do so. 45 got vaccinated in secret in January.
  15. To be clear, we are not banning you. Just hoping your tinfoil hat holds up until the rest of us reach herd immunity. and you can ride on the work of others.
  16. Sharing Covid-19 and vaccine misinformation will cost people lives. An independent review board evaluated the data presented to the FDA on the Moderna vaccine and they recommended approving this vaccine. So far, there is no evidence of widespread harm caused by this vaccine and it is effective. I trust that more than any conspiracy video. Wear your tinfoil hat if you must, but don't use misinformation to encourage others to do so. Instead, try looking at footage of what happens when your tinfoil hat fails to protect people from covid. This is a documentary of an ICU nurse and a few patients she serves. Should be required viewing for anyone wondering if they should still wear their mask. Conspiracy theories are not conservative, by the way. They are just dangerous noise in the age of disinformation.
  17. Pilot error. Fixed now. Hope you have a great trip!
  18. Road conditions
  19. I've certainly never been sponsored, so I don't speak from experience there. My thoughts are captured in this tidbit I put in a CC TR for Challenger "On the last day of our trip, we encountered novice hikers and experienced climbers below Hannegan Pass who all asked if we successfully made it to the Challenger summit. They offered congratulations when we told them we did. This felt weird because our summit day was technically, mentally, and physically less challenging than many other parts of our trip. The greatest rewards lay in overcoming the various challenges we encountered along the way, spending time with a close friend, and experiencing nature on its own terms."
  20. If you didn't spray about your ass-scent on social media with a professionally edited drone video and product placements then you're not going to land sponsors. No sponsors = no money = no lovin'. Summits and fun are irrelevant to the equation.
  21. Welcome to type 2 fun. We have plenty of it in the PNW. Way to persevere!
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