Rad

Don't know that one, but some Index grades should be taken with a large grain of salt. Case in point: the "10c" direct start to GM.

I'd second Gene's recommendation to do Sahale as it has some of the best views in the state and is very moderate. You don't need a rope for the "glacier" as you can walk around any cracks it may have, but some people want one for the rock scramble to the top. If you are down South, you might consider doing Pinnacle Peak next to Rainier. It also has great views and is easy. It's not a mountain on the scale of any of the others you've mentioned, but it's a fun outing. You can link it with other peaks along the ridge for extra fun.

Wondering what land is what along the I90 corridor? Check this map

From what I've seen, people park just outside the fee area so you get a bunch of cars on the road instead of in the parking lot. Maybe this has been answered, but don't you have to provide amenities to start charging fees? I'm thinking of X38 Far side, which is at the edge of Ollallie State Park. There is no rest room, no trash can, no trail maintainance, no water. The only thing new is parking lines and a sign about the permit. The irony is that they don't even own or control the land that people are accessing: the Far Side trails and climbing areas are on BLM land. So what will the revenues be used for if not amenities that benefit users?

I've just barely scratched the surface in this domain myself so I can't add much. I do look forward to seeing what other people recommend. Lay of the Land in the Woods at X32 is really good. Take a nut and sling the wire on a hangerless bolt on the right face halfway up. You'll see... I liked Bust the Move. It's pretty much 5.10 climbing to a V4 boulder problem, so very different from Rainy Day. The other 12a at Nevermind (toward the left - name escapes me) is probably harder and more interesting than Culture Shock. I haven't redpointed. You can easily work it by TRing after climbing Steep Street. And of course I'll throw in a vote for Skullduggery at X38.

Not sure about Slesse. The Pocket glacier is a hazard, but it might be so packed with snow that it's solid and safe now. Since you mention Slesse, I'm assuming you want a long, free, rock route with an alpine flavor. In that vein, I'd put the Passenger on SEWS high on your list. It has a bunch of 5.10 and 5.11 pitches on clean rock in a great setting.

Amen. I understand the main developers have moved away or moved on - so now there are a bunch of routes that are not getting climbed. Maybe time to have a conversation with the land owners and get this thing in the open.

HOT on sunny summer days.

Yep. Pathetic. We've turned our rangers into meter maids. I'm sure they don't like the situation any more than we do. This country is a la carte. Schools, transportation, bridges, parks. I personally would be glad to pay taxes to fund these things if we could be confident funds would be managed efficiently...

Unsolicited advice: get a hall pass, leave the 15 mo w/your spouse or someone else you trust, and take a day to climb (post in partners forum if needed). No need to feel guilty. You, your spouse, and your 15 mo will likely have more fun. Everybody needs some space from their own kids from time to time - otherwise we'd go crazy. Good luck!

Trip: Shangri-La, X38 - Various Date: 6/17/2011 Trip Report: I blame Alex. He put the drill in my hands, loaned me my first bit and bolts, and sparked the route development flame. In 2006, together with Weekendclimbers, we discovered the Shakespeare wall and set about establishing routes on it. In the process, I learned the fine art of killing small plants while dangling on the end of a rope. This experience inspired the area’s first route name (Macbeth) and the area name theme. The result was four fun 5.9/5.10 route. If you grow tired of the X38 Deception crowds wander up and try them. The following spring, the three of us were climbing at X38 Far Side crags on a blustery day. Actually, the rope was blowing up above our heads, we couldn’t communicate, and our hands grew numb. We rapped off and abandoned the idea of climbing that day. Instead of heading straight for beer, we decided to explore the giant, rambling, shattered, mossy buttress opposite Interstate Park. After crossing the talus, scrambling along a ledge, and squeezing behind a bush, we emerged atop the buttress. We peered down the East face of the formation and were awestruck by what we saw: steep, clean, unexplored cliffs. The rock looked better than most of X38, some two pitch lines looked possible, and there were opportunities for trad routes. Other than a few rusty pitons left decades earlier and a single bolt at the top of the cliff, we found no evidence of previous explorers. A new adventure and obsession was started. After the first few routes, Alex switched his energies to kids and sailing. Weekend bailed when he got injured. So I cobbled together partners where I could or went out solo to scratch the insatiable itch. Here are a few routes, photos, and stories: Guillotine was an obvious and arresting line up a giant corner. Its namesake flake is 4-6 inches thick, 40 square feet, partially detached, and has a sharp upper edge. You’d definitely get the chop if it peeled off and landed on you. We worried about its stability, but it doesn’t budge or ring when hammered and rough calculations suggest it weighs about three tons. Everyone who leads this climb places cams behind the flake, underclings it, and then liebacks its sharp upper edge. No leader has fallen there. Yet. In writing this, I’m inspired to place a cam behind the Guillotine and bounce test it – will report back if anything moves. First ascent. Not wanting to bolt a line that might be protected with cams and nuts, I decided to try to lead the route on gear. I expected it would be run out but was pleasantly surprised to find plenty of solid gear. The twinkle toes traverse and unprotected slab moves at the top added an exclamation point to an already great day. We pulled the rope and Michael Decker led it right after me. The FA of Guillotine in 07. Ian commits to the Guillotine in June, 2011. Note that Ian has clipped the first two bolts of Free Radical, the 11a arête right of Guillotine. Purists can place solid trad gear in that section and safely skip those bolts. Further History Book is a trad route up a crack in a left-leaning dihedral. The route gets its name from an ancient piton near the lower crux that only a fool would trust. The top of History Book had two teetering death blocks and no sign of human passage, suggesting the route had never been climbed to its logical conclusion atop the cliff. The route is now clean. Experienced trad leaders will find an abundance of gear options, but less experienced, cam-plugging gym monkeys might not agree. Several people have likened this route to Roger’s Corner at Index. First ascent. History Book looked relatively moderate and protectable with trad gear, so I trundled the offending blocks and decided to try it ground-up, onsight. I started up with large pruning shears tucked into the back of my harness, paused on lead to lop off a small bush that blocked the lower crux, and continued to the top without incident. Michael followed cleanly and then led a wandering trad pitch to the left that remains unrepeated. Todd contemplates the moves above the roof. Crouching Tiger was named for the original solution to the first roof. Better beta has since emerged, but you may find yourself crouching on slopers higher up anyway. First ascent. I led this without incident on a perfect summer day in 2008. Michael pulled the rope and led it right after me. I was hoping this might be my first 5.11 FA, but we agreed it didn't make the grade. With high texture slopers, directional holds, and well-spaced bolts, it definitely makes you think. Mike (not Decker) scans the slopers on Crouching Tiger. Hidden Dragon is long and devious, with four different cruxes on fabulous stone. Fortunately, there are good rests between the cruxes. One key hold is nearly invisible and another is impossible to see from below. These inspired the route name, though images of flying through the forest in epic battle seemed to fit as well. If you are less than 5’9” and/or don’t find the hidden holds, Hidden Dragon may feel more like 11+ than mid-11. Many people have now climbed this route, but no one has on-sighted it yet. Maybe this Saturday... First ascent. I back-clipped the first bolt, corrected it, fired the opening crux, and then blew the cryptic dropknee/breadloaf pinch on the second crux and fell. Thanks for the catch, Blake! I rested, swapped the drop knee for a toe hook, and sent the route next go. 2009. Brandon working out the first of the four riddles on Hidden Dragon. Skullduggery takes the most moderate line on a continuously overhanging wall. I rapped in from the top and knew right away that this project could take my climbing to the next level. At first I couldn't do a single move. I relentlessly worked out a sequence that fit my height, abilities, and style, set a boulder problem in the gym to train certain movement, drew an incredibly detailed topo that depicted every hold and twist and foot placement, and did movement-specific strength training and visualization. Part of my sequence involves a full body bridge into a hand/foot match on an overhanging wall. The route name means an act of trickery or deception and harks back to jargon friends and I used during mischievous and carefree camp counselor days many moons ago. First ascent. One cool morning last summer I went out with Jens for my first redpoint attempt. After warming up on Crouching Tiger and Free Radical, I hopped on Skullduggery. Fortunately, that morning I was in the zone – that rare space where everything flows and mind and body perform seamlessly as one. It was almost as if I was a detached observer watching a carefully choreographed gymnastics routine unfold. I sent the route first go. Oddly, it was both anti-climactic and deeply satisfying. No one has yet repeated the route, but I think it will happen this Saturday... Mike on Skullduggery. Side view of the Skullduggery wall.

I have a rock climbing TR but I won't post it in this forum, which might as well be titled "bolt spray", because it will be overshadowed by this sprayathon. Look for it in Alpine Lakes...

:tup:

Fixed IMHO, you should exclude professional photogs, as evidenced by websites featuring work or skills for sale.

Bouldering Humor Alpine Cragging Boarding Scenic

Bill, As Rob notes, SAR may have substantial support from volunteers, but operations are run by "Govt" (local Sheriff, Park Service, etc). Sending out a volunteer-only force would be problematic for a lot of reasons. If you want to know why try calling Kelly Bush or one of your Sheriffs who runs the ops on Hood. I found them very accessible and bet they'd be glad to talk with you. Rad

Mr. RuMR whom I've never met: Have you read the new site guidelines about conduct and personal attacks? Time to reassess your behavior and learn to address alternative perspectives in a civil manner. Moderators...please send him packing! I am 100% sure that the majority of users on this site would like to see you packing Raindawg. Tis certainly ironic. Nonetheless, RD is entitled to express his opinion in a civil fashion. But fear not, for a leopard cannot change his spots, and no new logic or original ideas will emanate therefrom. What bothers me, regardless of the tone of discourse, is when people view and judge others based on their own narrow perspective of the world. This happens on both sides of the argument. Maybe if we could all learn to be tolerant of the views and values of others we would not be such a polarized cc.com group, and for that matter such a polarized and paralyzed nation. More sickie and less

Aren't you suppose to be playing with electricity? And, are you referring to Reptiles or Jug or not? both are the best routes there. I will go ahead and fix some draws. good idea. I know you're being sarcastic - hope so at least - but how about replacing those wierd Burdo bolt/anchor things where he cut grooves in the rock to avoid buying a bolt hanger? Those things have seen a LOT of traffic over the years. I would hate to see someone take a real lead fall on one.

This is a highly charged issue, pun intended. You might find some relevant facts in the article I wrote last year for the NWMJ here: NWMJ article on Climber 9-1-1

Ditto

Jug or Not is 10b and is often toproped by people who have led Reptiles. Reptiles is a magnet for newbies who may not understand that people leave draws on routes on purpose. In future, it might be a good idea to clean those lower draws each time you come to work the route. In any case, I hope you get them back.

Thanks for posting. Awesome adventure. Makes me nostalgic for days of free-wheeling international travel. More US people need to get out and see the world, IMHO.

Social networking companies are HOTTT!!! CC.com IPO? Time for y'all to reap the rewards of your hard work here.

I've been thinking about carrying one for a rescue/hauling situation.