dmuja

Broke my chest strap on my Gregory Z pack. Actually it sort of disintegrated on its own. REI used to carry generic chest (sternum) straps that could fit anything but now they're so suck - despite any testimonials to the contrary on the "rei" thread. I could make one myself but I liked the stretchy thingy on it and I could not duplicate that as well I think. So is there any other place that sells them, or any replacement chest straps? Tanx lotsa

sorry, jus felt like I had to pUPchuck there.. I wuv puppies!

Puppy love maybe not very emo

Yes, I do it alot, anytime Im "practice" climbing. I save all my old insole/inserts from all my shoes and cut them to fit in my rock shoes - mainly the front half/ball of foot. Basically, I have re-thunk every thing I was told about rock shoes and I now over size them majorly for comfort and so I can insole them and wear socks also. Fuck if i could figure a way to put 'pons on them I might try it. If your goal is to star in "Rock and Ice" or whatever or to push your gym/crag numbers then "form-fit" them til your toes fall off - not for me. Personally, I just practice climb so I can climb in the mountains.

Anyone else get a cough after going up Hood? I was half joking about the "HAPE" but its happened like 4 out of 6 times and lasts (but improves) a few days after the climb. Feels painfully dry but it produces phlegm and crackling wheezing chest congestion. Its never happened to me on other Volcanoes. So is it the noxious volcanic fumerols on Hood or should I not make plans for any high altitude?

Update 3-22-08: Our legion of 3 million (ok, our "team of 3", we picked 1 up in the lodge) went up the 'Hot gates' (Pearly) yesterday in awesome conditions. Our numbers seemed to count for nothing as King Leonidas and his band of 300 hurled what they could upon us in an atempt to prevent our passing (actually, it was another team of 3 above in the left chute, we got a little bloodied by an ice shower so don't look up). We prevailed in the end though. Ivan's advice was right on as the duck feet & skins were used from the hut to just above Triangle moraine, boots sans 'pons before that, from the moraine on up we wore crampons. The gates themselves were pretty fun. We took the right chute. Yes, it had a short but easy and fun ice/mixed section at around 70-80 degrees. Can't say what left chute was like. It was relatively cold and windy on top. I suppose it goes without saying but lots of snow on the mountain this year. Plunge stepping in the fluff on the slog decent felt really good on my old knees n feet. Advice stands for the short term I'd say, bring snowshoes or skins. At least one ice tool as a second (that's 2 ax's including a mountain ax) is a pretty good idea if you're taking this 'standard' route. We placed a screw as well for the very short mixed part. 3 pics from partner Jeff who took these..

oops!, wrong thread, post moved

Thanks for the update Ivan - good info.

Anyone been up in the last few days or so? Specifically, snow conditions - anything slid lately on the south/west crater rim? thinking bout comin down Friday maybe or Saturday w/friend for a South side romp but the forecast looks marginal - maybe though, we'll see..

Office of the Dalai Lama's Press Release dalailama.com[Wednesday, March 19, 2008 00:33] PRESS RELEASE Contacts: Chhime R. Chhoekyapa, Secretary Mobile + 91 (09816021879) Tenzin Taklha, Joint Secretary Mobile + 91 (09816021813) link PRESS RELEASE I would like to take this opportunity to express my deep gratitude to world leaders and the international community for their concern over the recent sad turn of events in Tibet and for their attempts to persuade the Chinese authorities to exercise restraint in dealing with the demonstrations. Since the Chinese Government has accused me of orchestrating these protests in Tibet, I call for a thorough investigation by a respected body, which should include Chinese representatives, to look into these allegations. Such a body would need to visit Tibet, the traditional Tibetan areas outside the Tibet Autonomous Region, and also the Central Tibetan Administration here in India. In order for the international community, and especially the more than one billion Chinese people who do not have access to uncensored information, to find out what is really going on in Tibet, it would be tremendously helpful if representatives of the international media also undertook such investigations. Whether it was intended or not, I believe that a form of cultural genocide has taken place in Tibet, where the Tibetan identity has been under constant attack. Tibetans have been reduced to an insignificant minority in their own land as a result of the huge transfer of non-Tibetans into Tibet. The distinctive Tibetan cultural heritage with its characteristic language, customs and traditions is fading away. Instead of working to unify its nationalities, the Chinese government discriminates against these minority nationalities, the Tibetans among them. It is common knowledge that Tibetan monasteries, which constitute our principal seats of learning, besides being the repository of Tibetan Buddhist culture, have been severely reduced in both in number and population. In those monasteries that do still exist, serious study of Tibetan Buddhism is no longer allowed; in fact, even admission to these centres of learning is being strictly regulated. In reality, there is no religious freedom in Tibet. Even to call for a little more freedom is to risk being labeled a separatist. Nor is there any real autonomy in Tibet, even though these basic freedoms are guaranteed by the Chinese constitution. I believe the demonstrations and protests taking place in Tibet are a spontaneous outburst of public resentment built up by years of repression in defiance of authorities that are oblivious to the sentiments of the local populace. They mistakenly believe that further repressive measures are the way to achieve their declared aim of long-term unity and stability. On our part, we remain committed to taking the Middle Way approach and pursuing a process of dialogue in order to find a mutually beneficial solution to the Tibetan issue. With these points in mind, I also seek the international community’s support for our efforts to resolve Tibet’s problems through dialogue, and I urge them to call upon the Chinese leadership to exercise the utmost restraint in dealing with the current disturbed situation and to treat those who are being arrested properly and fairly. Dalai Lama Dharamsala March 18, 2008

Ok, the following may be quite boring and annoying to non religious philosophy majors so be forewarned: As for "Karma".. It can be said that many Tibetans view their current predicament as being a manifestation of karma, of past "wrong actions" you might say, however, in higher Tibetan Buddhist philosophy "karma" is a bit different than say Hindu karma. It is a complex subject (boring to say the least unless you enjoy studying the stuff - I did for a while) but the chase is basically that ones karma can be changed or influenced in another direction thru wise (enlightened) thought and action. Ie, Karma is not set in stone. Becoming a "witness to the manifestations (of karma) with no attempt to change or rectify it" is not really correct. What I studied of Buddhist phi mentioned 2 aspects of reality simultaneously always present. 1, conventional (physical measurable reality). 2 Ultimate (empty, non-"self" existing) reality. Karma is number 1. It is the "cause n effect" process of life, or more correctly of what is our experience across many lives. We have to interact with karma because we live in its midst, everything we experience as practical/conventional reality is simply put, karma. The ultimate truth or ultimate nature of karma (and our selves) though is that it is empty of being anything actually substantial and independently real (this is where it differs from Hindu karma) so it ultimately is rather "dream like." And so, because karma is an empty process, it can actually exist because only a process that is empty can actually exist as a process. Got it??? Take home lesson is that a wise person engages life as though every single moment is precious and meaningful, but realizes it is but momentary and without ultimate meaning (not at all the same as "meaningless" btw).

Yeah - we'd roll right past the PLA if they had oil. It'd be one thing if constantly attributing the basest possible motives to every single action this country takes were even accurate, but it's not. I invite you to start counting at the Revolutionary War and work forward, and tabulate how many military interventions which [you believe] were motivated by nothing more noble than a simple desire to for material gain. List the wars and the probable material gain that [according to you] that served as the foremost motive for participating in them in each case. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_United_States_military_history_events With maybe a few exceptions, basically, the U.S. intervenes militarily when any of 3 things are at risk; American Lives, American property, American "interests" (last one open to interpretation). Of coarse in this day and age of nukes and great risk of global conflict we would not even consider to intervene militarily on behalf of the Tibetans. The Chinese care about this issue to the extent that the world is watching - and as it enters the age of economic warfare. They (China) are commies yes, and commies only know force its true. But they are trying to also understand and use the modern force of economics to exert world dominance and beat the West at its own game. The Chinese are a bit vulnerable in this way of economic power because people/nations can still choose to not do business with them. "Image" is still be important in business and right now Chinas image is taking a hit. The Tibetans and their supporters have to keep taking advantage of this situation if they want to "benefit" (not the right word) as a culture in some way and that is why the Dalai Lama is not calling for the protests to stop despite the loss of life potential I think. BTW, Unfortunately, (this is just my uneducated opinion) the U.S. (through greed mostly) is apparently choosing to sell most of its economic power off for a quick buck or two. We are getting weak and a few of us are getting fat. Eventually we may realize that we need some sort of self regulation/legislation which mandates that global business be conducted with an eye toward protecting long term American interests over unrestrained personal wealth. In other words, as the Chinese are moving more toward capitalism, in the coming age of economic power, the U.S. may have to adopt a bit of socialism if its going to avoid becoming the "American Autonomous Region" of China. My bumper sticker of the day.."TAX THE RICH, KEEP AMERICA STRONG"

Interesting NYT report ---> http://www.nytimes.com/2008/03/16/world/asia/16cnd-tibet.html?hp .

SC, Here's who, The vast majority of ethnic Tibetans who have had there religion and culture greatly suppressed in some cases destroyed, their human and political rights denied, their land and environment taken over, the ones who have watched friends and relatives arrested or killed over many many years for simply keeping with their own cultural values and not adopting the Moaist values of the Chinese occupiers. Are ther other minorities in Tibet? Sure there are - for example the small minority of Tibetan muslims. How they feel about the Chinese oppression of Tibetans I can't answer. The Dalai Lama has also repeatedly spoke about the importance of respecting all minorities in the Tibet as envisioned by the Government in Exile. A Tibet that would be democratic and not ruled by any religion or single political dogma. Maybe youre too cynical to believe that though? If youre trying to make an arguement that the PLA have brought about peace and justice to Tibet, Id have to laugh and then point out the actual history of the occupation.

Fair enough matt, I'd like to add that if we wait for the ideal "perfect cause" before we offer any support for what is right then how are we different from the yuppies that "idealize" Tibet? This - like any other cause - is imperfect and taken up by flawed individuals. Im sure some might be "shocked" to learn that some Tibetans actually have engaged in lets call it "less than non-violent" behavior in the past or even in this case, not me. The support for the Tibetan cause may even run a bit deeper than most critics give due. Slogans are slogans, we live in the land of commercial advertisement and people do what they must to bring awareness on any level. (BTW- I don't have a bumpersticker etc..lol). Since the DL has called for merely some measure of autonomy -as opposed to independence- the new stickers now read "Hear Tibet".

Matt, It's not "Western yuppies who drive volvo's and imagine Tibet as the mystical kingdom featured in the film Shangri La (bla bla).." that are now dying in Tibet at the hands of the Chinese military, I thinks it's actual Tibetans - probly monks and nuns and young people mostly - who simply want a right to freedom of religion and to protect their culture. If you got some hang-up about "yuppies" who support the Tibetan cause then I might suggest that a shrink could help with your hang-up. The "whole idea" is being fueled by smart tactics, smart timing, and desperation on the part of TIBETANS.

Tibet was a multi-cultural and multi-religion society that - like every other society run by humans - had very human problems and occasional conflicts. It is as "Buddhist" as Buddhist gets when translated by "imperfected" humans. The Dalai Lama has conceded many times that Tibet needed modernization and that China actually had contributed some positive aspects to the effort. But at what cost? I think he (DL) used the term "genocide". What you get with most Tibetans I have known is exactly what you see, in general a very honest and straight forward bunch. There are any number of places on the web that can point out the atrocities conducted by the Chinese against Tibetans and their culture - it's pretty bad if you want to look - and it's not a zero some game. We do have the ability to point out hypocrisies, inconsistencies, when and wherever they become obvious and right now (thanks to some brave people in Tibet) they have. Just because its happening else where is no excuse for tolerating it or even condoning it in Tibet. And just BECAUSE the Tibetans are largely non-violent it (the oppression and loss of theor culture) has been a long and painfully drawn out process. The younger generation is more "western" influenced now and they are less into religion, non-violent philosophy, and following the example of the west, they are more practical minded. I don't "idealize" the Tibetans or the situation there, but what has happened to them is grossly unfair and injust. I will not allow myself to become to cynical about these things either though.

We just need to start referring to the Chinese occupation of Tibet as it really is TERRORISM. So I wonder what happened to "Youre either with us, or your against us"? What happened to the peoples right to self determination through a "democratic process" (read 'Iraq')? What happened to the "War on Terror?" tvash is correct, the timing is right for this, and according to reports some high level athletes are now talking about an Olympic boycott - maybe only an individual level though. The longer this goes on, the more coverage it gets, the bigger the problem becomes for the terrorist state China.

Here's a a big FUCK YOU! to China.. Despite their best efforts at putting on a smiling face for the world for the upcoming Olympic games, the Chinese regime shows once again that it is nothing but a bunch of murderous thugs. Will anyone stand up for what's right, you know, the moral/principled thing? Probly not, there's money to be made after all. Links: Human Rights Watch Statement 'Phayul' Independent Tibetan News Site Tibetan Students Website Everest closed to climbing to Appease the Chinese Google Stands Against Free Speech

Yosemite climbing ranger, Jesse McGahey, attributes the rise in garbage to “newbie” climbers coming straight from the climbing gym — and lacking wilderness ethic skills. He’s on a mission to educate and inform new climbers, while cleaning up Yosemite’s favorite climbing crags. Last month, volunteers packed out 900 pounds of abandoned rope, snack wrappers and toilet paper strewn around some of Yosemite’s most cherished crags. As neophyte rock jocks head to national parks to test their skills in the great outdoors, some are breaking the wilderness ethic that has long governed the sport. “In the ’70s, people used to teach each other how to climb outdoors,” said McGahey, 29. “Now a lot of people come out of the gym and head straight for the woods, with no idea of what they’ll find there.” Maybe climbing gyms should start offering courses in wilderness ethics and appreciation… link coarse, Im not dawg, I just play his bitch on teh interweb

Prolly the same reason the Taliban did/does. Sexual repression + authoritarianism = perversion

Oh that, ok, I thought this was the "wanna fuck?" thread Ive been waiting for. My font size must be off or something. It would be so 2008 if Barack and Shrillary would just hook up. Put their "bring the country together" rhetoric to the test.

So I guess if this is what we now call "terrorism" then this must have been our own "911". Oh the humanity! The horror, the horror!

Kewl. Hey Bushwhacker, is your "WAFA" a prereq to climb wit yooz guys? Do you guys actually climb stuff? (as opposed to making experienced climbers sit through a never ending series of classes on 'how to climb' and 'what is proper hiking attire' etc).. jus wunderin Thnx, D

'mericans shore don't need no sissy boogerbuster or whataya callem "co ordinates"..