fenderfour

I think it's listed as a 5.9 in Sky Valley Rock. Apparently there is/was a crack inside. I don't know for sure. I don't want to climb it.

Someone would "booty" the carabiners. You will notice that the Climbtech biner is pinned to prevent theft.

This is a little bit of drift, but... what do you think about using these as anchors attached to standard bolt hangers?

I have always used small pieces of nylon as patches and regular barge cement to fix air mattresses. The key is clamping or putting weight on the patch overnight to make sure it is well adhered. Proper gluing is also key. Most cements require that you apply glue to both surfaces and let dry for a while. If you don't do this, the glue will not hold.

Full disclosure: I post as Robert Fisher on Mountain Project. Yes, that disparaging comment is from me.

sabretooth

punch him in the dick.

Frost Powerdraws might be what you are looking for. http://www.frostworksclimbing.com/powerdraws.html

A sewing pin works well, or you can get beading pins made out of SS. the flat head of the pin holds it in. Be sure to rough up the area that will hold the swage. It's not hard if you do it right.

You can't ding the guy for not scrubbing something. What have you scrubbed lately?

I had my eye on cleaning that myself! I'll work with you on that later this summer if you are interested. You were thinking about cleaning Chook? It was done two-ish years ago. it might need a touch-up. A couple of the adjacent climbs have also been scrubbed at Shady Lane. Last year we re-chopped a trail heading over there from the main wall trail. To get there: Head up the main wall trail, about 3/4 of the way up, you will encounter a steep broken face. The main trail makes a right along this face. To get to shady lane, head left and follow the face to some clean climbs. a dirty gully on the left end allows you to TR any of the routes.

then it never happened Hesitation breads fear? Like deep-fried? Deep fried fear sounds awesome. Do you serve it with BBQ sauce or go with some bleu cheese salad dressing? FYI - when compared to climbing, the internet is a very new thing. In the old days, there was nowhere for intrepid climbers to spray about their mediocre ascents. The folks writing the books were wise enough to exclude some routes from the published guides for brevity or expense, or even spite.

there is still something cool about getting on a route that hasn't seen a climber in 10ish years. There are some classic lines waiting for a scrubbin. Look at Free Range Chook - that shit is classic. Nobody cared because it needed a few hours of cleaning.

It actually looks like it was a good hanger until it got whanged, I wonder what the story is. Given the abrasions, I would bet rockfall. It's clearly made of aluminum. Maybe even some hardware extrusion. Not what I would call "good".

My advice is to buy a rope and go climbing.

You're up. I hate to agree with CJB, but seriously. Too often I hear people say things like this. There is no committee for the cleaning of your favorite crag. There are no employees that maintain the place. It's you and me, spending a little time to make things a little nicer. Wire brush at Home depot: $5 a few hours of your time: free Clean start to your favorite route: priceless BTW - Rattletale is a handcrack. Sissies.... Bringing back the pagetop:

Aid climb x2 , an do a lot of exposed scrambling.

What's the issue with the drilled angle? Sure it's weird, but it works well in sandstone.

Why does every hold look like a jug when he climbs?

It took me three tries before I finally got that route. Buy a hook and keep at it. More aid climbing = faster aid climbing = more fun. Part of climbing this route is dealing with the logistics of aid down low and free climbing up top. Besides, I'm betting you will find a couple more places that you will want to aid up higher.

I sound like a broken record, but go check out Private Idaho and the surrounding area. Magic Fern (index 5.9) has a 5.10b boulder move to start, then goes to a wide-ish 5.9 hand crack. Battered sandwich has a section of wide layback/jam at th ebottom (bring a #5). Peanuts to Serve you is a few minutes up the trail. It has a section of #4. While you are there, you can climb Them at Wall of 10,000 Insects. It's pretty darn wide, but easy if you lieback it. Hard if you jam it.

that's f*cking hilarious.

Let's not confuse "Bold" with "stupid". over the years, a bolt has less impact on the rock than subsequent pin placements and is substantially less safe. For a 5.13 climber to argue that a manky pin made the climb more exciting is kind of silly. If that were the prevailing attitude, I would recommend we strip all the bolts off any climb under 5.7, because I would be willing to solo them. F*ck everyone else. The pins will eventually loosen and need to be replaced, scarring the rock every time. One well placed stainless bolt will last longer than any of us will be climbing. If it's a 5-piece, it can be replaced without drilling a new hole 40 years form now when it finally corrodes. FYI - The linked Mountain Project page says the pin was replaced in 2009. It has already pulled out.

...f*cking society, always messing things up. Anarchy would have left your beers alone.

It is a failure on the climber's part, but it doesn't hurt to get the info out there to make sure other climbers don't make the same mistake. "You're not wrong Walter. You're just an asshole."