shapp

pitch 3 makes me cry for mommy, on second no less

It is a miniscule crag, mostly crappy rock, highly over documented in another book (the Oregon weekend rock book and Rock n' Road) and a couple climbing mag articles, although there are a couple nice (but very short) lines. But what is really funny is that it is a northwest oregon climbing guide, with two areas in NE oregon, high valley and spring mt. Spring mountain has a lot of routes and would be worth a drive over from NW oregon. The only reason to go to high valley is if you live within a few miles and it is a nice sunny afternoon in winter or spring when other climbing options are not available or if you don't have the time to drive to Hells Canyon. Before I lived out there, we tried to find the crag when passing throgh on our way to Nevada, and never actually found it becasuee when driving up the canyon we passed right by the wall but never stopped because all we saw was miniscule choss basalt walls, and thought the book must have been wrong. this is an example of about 1/2 the routes there:

Tyler is one the most amazing climber characters I have ever met and puts up adventure routes and does a lot of exiting route maintenance with no thanks or want for payment. He is not a deusch trying to compile info from others for his own self grandization, and turning around and trying to sell it back to you.

With all due respect, I fail to see how high valley has made it into yet another climbing book/publication even though I have enjoyed many winter and spring sunny afternoons at this crag.

That last pitch is the bomb! Glad to see you made it back from the sand box!

Yo Tyler, cawcawcawcawcawcaw!

You are a Pimp! nice work!

Can someone embed these videos, I am electronically challenged My First look at the Chetco The Magic Canyon just downstream of the putin Brian exiting one of the first long Class IVs

Dam it Dam it, son of a bitch!

Bring a bike, it isn't that far to the TH from the MT. Loop turnoff.

I didn't fall or hang on the traverse so it must be 5.9 or less, I fell on the step right off library ledge so it must be 5.10d

Brain is getting a good start on his Chetco story of our trip http://riverlog.blogspot.com/2012/06/wild-and-scenic-chetco-day-1.html http://riverlog.blogspot.com/2012/07/wild-and-scenic-chetco-day-2.html

Damn, nice suggestions, I could defenitely pull of the harder route leads, but will probably have to actually do some upper body exercise to pull my lard ass up those. I can usually off the coach complete 5.9 to lower 5.10, but the harder 5.10 might require some pre-planned workouts to reduce the hangdog time!

Bunches of photos with comentary, check out some of the rock with emerald waters below for deepwater bouldering

Going to be up there in latter summer for work trip, going to hit up Chimney Rock in the Selkirks. Any recommendation an a really fun route in the low 5.10 to 5.9 range or less, hand cracks would be nice!

No, that was a portage and un-runable at that flow with a boulder seive at the bottom with no way through. We fully portaged 2 un-runable rapids at that flow, and partially lined 2 more.

No, Allen hasn't guided that river since the bisquit fire in 2002. I have never beenon a guided trip. If you have the skills to paddle this section (solid class IV) then you don't need a guide. Also, there is currently no guide with a forest service special use permit for this run.

a few pics from my camera, which is crapy, waiting to get pics from those with the SLR.

Trip: Kalmiopsis Wilderness - Upper Chetco River Date: 6/9/2012 Trip Report: Just got back this morning at 1:30 am from an unbelievable trip through the Kalmiopsis wilderness. Traveled to the Baily Mt. Trailhead on June 9, packed in June 10, June 11-14 decending the river, took out about 2pm June 14. Six of us horse packed our boats in 9 miles through the bisquit fire burn area (3 boats per mule) and all our other stuff on our backs, paddled IKs from Carter Creek to the Steel Bridge about 25.5 miles through an incredible series of Class IV gorges. There was probably 150 to 200 individual rapids rating Class III to IV+, with about 30% in the Class IV range. Awsome turquoise blue crystal clear water, cliff jumping, excellent fishing, great deep water soloing potential, even some good looking single pitch rock climbing. Might need a few stitches on a gash my shin from a nasty little swim yesterday, waiting to see if it permanently stops weeping. This is a very wild place seen by very few. The full story, many photos and vids to come in the next few weeks. Gear Notes: Aire Lynx I kayaks, mules Approach Notes: mules, 9 miles on the Babyfoot Lake/Baily Mt. Trail

To mean it means when I am in danger of actually hurting my self where I might actually need medical attention or loose a bunch of skin if I fall. Im not going to die, but I might get get bruised up, maybe need a stitch or two and generally not want to repeat the experience again after a fall. I also feel like I am actually on a run out when I start getting a bit nervious and a little scared. However, I am a pussy and this usually happens before I am actaully on a "runout" where I might actually get hurt, so I guess its a good evolutionary trait. What does "runout" mean to you. And in a big generalization, how far above a solid peice of A1 gear (bolt or trad I don't differntiate) with no potenial to deck or hit a ledge, do you start feeling the "runout" factor when climbing hard near your athletic limit.

Carry a normal rack, I bet you will climb harder and way faster with less weight Just think if you put in a piece on average every 6 to 7 feet, then get comfortably with putting in pieces say on average 10 to 12 feet. Bam you just lead the pitch way faster, took almost half the gear, second takes half the time to clean, it is a cascading huge effect. This has really got me thinking on what is actually a "runout". See new topic to continue.

you just can't fix stupid, I guess I should have never posted. Dude, I said it looks like the close bolts at this crag seam like a good idea. There are tons tons tons of places that have trad climbs stretching a full rope. I almost always climb with doubles these days due to long pitches we climb and the need to have 2 ropes to rap. On most long routes you aint taking enough gear to put in 24+ draws. Hell, I don't even own that many. Game over, looks like a cool place!

Being that 55 meters is close to 180 feet and if there is a bolt every 7 feet that would be 25 bolts. It would be reasonable on a trad climb if you were sewing it up to place a piece at your feet. Especially if you were on uncertain terrain. Not arguing the crag is overbolted, just wondering. There are a lot of 50 to 55 meter pitches in darrington on hard slab (not realy friendly to falling either), though solid rock, and the most pro/bolts you might have on a 55 meter pitch would be in the 15 to 17 range, and not really what I would call runout, minus the issue with falling on ledges/and big nobs fing you up on a fall, a bolt every 10 feet or so is not runout to me when climbing at my limit, is it to you? Again not trying to argue about bolts at this crag, yoru nitial reponse was great, the follow up implying the need to space bolts closely just because it is hard seams silly. On a hard climbyou place gear where you can and where you can get a good rest stance, not at your feet, for example it might be safer to power 10 or 12 feet and get to a good stance than to fiddle with gear at a poor stance. Obvioisly we could beat this subject to death, bottom line looks like a very cool area, close bolts spacing seams tomake a lot of sense there, can't wait to g. Ivan, is it time for you and I, and corvallisclimb had a circle jerk up there?

interesting, just curious how you get 24 or more draws needed for a 55 meter pitch? Is there aid involved on these? Now that I am a lot closer, I need to get up there an check it out.