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shapp

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Everything posted by shapp

  1. I still think Wet Dream would be a better name for Vitamin R, as well as the Bloody Gash for the Ultimatum.
  2. Trip: SE Oregon Boner Storm - scoping Date: 4/8/2012 Trip Report: SE Oregon is the Tits, Boner storm and sword fighting was in ample supply as we explored a 100 mile radius of geologically active and geologically diverse landscapes full of spires, hot springs, wildlife (big horns, antelope, mule deer, rabbits, and Captain Frick). Sun, snow, rain, sun, wind, sun, beers, canadian hunter, BBQ ribs, indian food night, suasages, gyros, canadian hunter, speeding tickets, parking tickets, giant fricking spires everywhere! and more wind. April fools jokes with porno in the gas tank cover, f-ing with the trail bikes, pervert stew in the Alvord with a drunk white dude accusing 2 sheephearders of steeling his wallet and booze, how could I ever go to Smith Rocks again? Tip: Bring extra gas and always order the dinner at the Old Basque Inn.
  3. shapp

    Hell

    4:20 on the owyhee baby!
  4. Haven't seen them, it is rare, there are only a handful in the heard on the WA side.
  5. shapp

    Hell

    Hell Yeah Baby!
  6. Bring your big nutsack for pitch 3
  7. It is a dice roll in terms of weather in May, if it is dry it is good, if it is raining it ain't I am anticipating the road will be totally f-ed into Clear Creek the entire summer from what I understand.
  8. camlocks are the single biggest pieces of crap I have ever had the displesure of trying to place on a runout
  9. Bet you whish you had a chouinard long dong right about right now!
  10. I was always partial to fourth horseman area. You got pack animal, friday's jinx first pitch with crack of infinity second pitch (5.8 splitter yo!), or crack of infinity start if you want somehting harder or a 5.10a diagonal finger crack inbetween crack of infinity and friday's jinx 1st pitch. Another option if of course Solar, which is a bitchen crack and you can start out by climbing Phonecall from Satan bolted pitch.
  11. hanman jangles the jewels at Hot Creek! Yes an entire creek of hot water flowing through a desolate valley. Can you imagine what this place would be like with a few spring break chicas! old dirty poaching forbiden fruit
  12. I always enjoyed heading out to Idaho during spring break, realizing the weather was sucking, taking a right down through NV, looking for aliens, playing pool in Jiggs, taking a dip in my favorite hot springs (Hot Creek), getting down to Red Rocks for the tasty varnish and hiking around Valley of Fire.
  13. Long cracks of all sizes and people in there traing that actually climb outside on lead
  14. Yes, though the peaks you mention are super choss limestonish, the grante is far and not really that great. If you are in NW Oregon, go to Darrington, WA, its closer, if you are in Idaho, go to the Sawtooths, it better. If you live within about 2hrs hours of Enterprise and are looking for an adventure, send me a pm and I can send you in the right direction.
  15. This topic is sort of absurd, it is more of an argument of how/when you are going to die. You are going to die period. the stats are 100% chance!, be it in a car, in a crevasse, lung cancer eventhough you have never smoked, lung cancer because you smoke, heart attack because you ate too much horse cock climbing mountains, murdered because you were in the wrong place at the wrong time, murdered because you made a bad dope deal, falling off a 6' ladder hanging xmas lights, murdered because you chose to open the door at your house to a stranger, die just because you lived to be too old to live any longer, take your own life because you are old and just got a terminal caner diagnosis, etc. etc. (all real circumstances of people I have known). No one is making it out alive and know one except the suicide case knows when it is coming. Why dwell on it?
  16. From the little bit back machine, January 1997, you can see some of the old rivets/button heads. Clay and Nate of OSU joining the ascent. Bivied in the west face cave with mice and all joining the festivities. Big orange rafting drybag with ducktaped on webbing for haul bag. Shapp dog trying to pull the 5.11 exit from the cave.
  17. Excellent advice, I might add after some trips to Columns, do more top roping at North Point and Student wall before moving on to the lead climbs listed in the Lower Gorge. And if you don't know any trad climbers (hence the need for toprope) you are going to have to find someone to climb with that can lead trad so you can learn to place gear. Don't get in a hurry, it takes time to learn to crack climb and place gear proficiently and safely. Take it slow and steady working up through the grades and learning to place gear. Good luck.
  18. the whole things to be a day late and a dollar short, but this video, I just shit my pants laughing watching it!
  19. last time I climbed that route was in January of 1997, slept in the cave, found a petzel zoom, nearly all buttonheads on the "bolt" ladders, could pull some out by and for easy inspection then re-insert
  20. That ..... is now out of the proverbial ....... Yo, editing the TR after I posted, bad form
  21. ooooh that fall Katie took sure looked "scary"
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