ken4ord

This morning, like almost any weekday morning Misti and I get in the car and head down our dirt road to work. Today as we were pulling out of our gate there was several guys standing out in front of it which was sort of odd since we live on a dead end street and are close to being one of the last houses on the street. We made a comment to each, wondering what these guys are doing. We didn't give it too much thought since after all we do have a guard at our house and Misti's mom was there and our nanny. Just a few minutes ago I got a call from Misti. She had just found out that those guys were there to dig up a mass grave that was right next to our house. Very creepy, especially since I have been thinking of doing some digging there to build some double jumps.

Today back to happy feel good twisted music. HalDFVVo4aY HpP-8tJ-9Js&mode

Spend a couple of years at the dream job and really see how much of a dream job it is. Boston is not Seattle by a long shot, but it still a halfway decent city and climbing in New England is good, especially if you like ice. After moving from Maine to Seattle, there was no way in the world that you would be able to get me back to the East coast. West is the best!

The reason I like to suffer is so that I can fully appreciate the other end of the spectrum. Without suffering, I think there is a tendency to forget how good a morning cup of coffee tastes, how comfortable a bed is, how nice it is to have dry clothes on, how relaxing it is to just sit, etc. I know that is why I like suffering. My addiction to the mountains though is not all about suffering, days when I am in the mountains on a clear warm day, laying on rock, thinking about nothing, not hear daily buzz of people talking, cars driving by, the beeping of the lab equipment, etc. and breathing in air that is unpoluted, is just extacsy. I guess going into the mountains offer both suffering which makes me appreciate life more and simplicity.

That was yesterday on my Ipod, Slipknot, Candiria, Hatebreed and a little mellow stuff I listened to Linkin Park.

That actually looks like a route at the North End of Cathedral Ledge, I can't remember the name, if it is the route that I am thinking it is?

old school modest is so much better then the new "i'm sober now" mouse....although they did make it through the entire concert with out any major screw ups I agree I prefer older modest mouse, but I think what really makes them great band is that even though they have changed quite a bit over the years, they are still producing music I like.

Cool looking forward to the new Might Mouse as my gf calls them.

Most of the time I tie in with the rope. Situation where I don't are if I am not swapping leads, if there is freezing rain or if I am on rappel. Those other times I just use a sling and stay weighted on it so that I don't shock load the anchor if I slip. I have never bothered with daisy chains (unless aiding) or any of the new system that are out there, I just feel cluttered what that shit is girth hitched onto my harness (especially since I tend to mainly rack on the harness).

Yeah those first five slab pitches of 5.4 climbing with cracks nearby would be impossible for mere mortals.

Hell no!!!

:sleep: :sleep: :sleep: :sleep: :sleep: :sleep: :sleep: :sleep:

My warm ups are pretty easy, a brisk walk home then I start with using any hold moving slow and streching on most holds, never allowing myself to pump. The easy problem that follow can be done with eyes closed again focus is on warming up and streching. I have done what you have suggested for several months, basically I spent a long time working moderate problems to gain a base. Climbing at 70%-80% of my maximum, hard enough that it would take a couple of tries inorder to get it, but not easy enough to step right up and send, then able to do them whenever. After a while though my workouts were getting too long and my joints would ache. I still use a lot of those problems, when I am working the real hard stuff, where I am trying to figure out how to hold onto the hold type problem. Basically when I get to that part of the workout I will try the undoables and give them some earnest tries (2-5 tries) then when my attepts are futile, I hop on the moderates, and try to stay in control like you said, but they definitely feel harder because of the undoable tries. I guess it is a little different approach since I still am trying to really push. The nice thing is now I feel like am trying and sometime getting real difficult problem, but without the pain. Also I climbing through moderates with a pump. A few months down the road I will proabably have to readjust my routine again.

Usually I go up routes like you described with one tool, other time two tools, then sometime I just go by myself.

The ankle flex idea doesn't sound so good since boots tend not to flex that much. I would think that a device similar to your backpack idea but, that move back and forth attached to the boots might work, since a stepping motion is probably the most common motion. Then later Mike can attach then to his wrist to continue generating energy late into the night.

I think so, it would be run out, but make it more fun I think. The upper pitches would stray from the bolted line, unless you like no gear easy 10 climbing.

Hell yeah dood, thanks, that looks freaking great out there. Shit I wish I could find work there.

Actually that is something I would like to do. I have been on the route twice it is long outing that is close to town. Not best route around nor the worse, could go on gear by doing a little more wandering, but for the most part you could stay mainly true to the route on gear.

Yeah I tend to think 50 not old either, the way I would prefer to look at it is when I reach 50 I am hopefully only at the half-way mark. Climbing might not be life, but for me it is part of my life, I can say since I started climbing there really hasn't been a day I have not thought about it at the very least.

Yes, he thought it was funny, because it was. And clever. You did not think it was funny because you were the BUTT of the joke. Ha ha. Somebody hand this boy a bigger shovel.

Tons. I have a room in my house I call the gear room. That's what lives in there. When you are ready to buy some more gear, PM me first--I got lots o stuff I can part with for a good deal. Or for trade. I need a mountain bike, scarpa tele boots, a drysuit or wetsuit, all sorts of stuff. I got needs. I alway have to have a gear room no matter where I live. Right now my consists of 4 mountain bike, 1 road bike, 4 rope, ices axes, ice screws, pitons, aid gear, full rack, 2 tubs of bike parts, mountaineering boots, 10 pairs of rocks shoes, lighting systems (for the climbing wall, mountain biking, and hiking), baby pack, bike tools, 7-8 packs, 2 tents, 4 sleeping bags........on and on. I stil have stuff in storage in Seattle too and with friends. Funny thing is I use it all. No stoke here right now, it is rainy season for the next month or two. :cry:

I was thinking the same thing when I saw that picture!!

this could definitely be a factor. i wonder how tall you are.... if you really want to climb 5.12, i think you can do it. just cuz you're bouldering a few hours even consistently doesn't mean that it's necessarily helping your climbing very much, though. there's something about learning how to pull hard; there's definitely a mental aspect, being able to try really hard. i'd check out some books on climbing. one that comes to mind is Performance Rock Climbing, written by udo neumann and dale goddard. if you follow the recommendations in that book, and maybe develop some stuff on your own, and really STICK TO IT for a few months, i betcha you might surprise yourself. the thing about picking a hard route above your head that i'd be cautious about is the potential for frustration. if you get on something that's just too hard, it might just fuck with your motivation. if you want to break into 5.12's, i'd recommend starting on Rainy Day Women! i bet you could get it, especially if someone is there to give you beta, and it would psych you for your next 5.12. Well I am 5'10", so there and there is room drop drop some weight. I have made a commitment to myself to see about dropping some weight and work harder at it just to see where it takes me. I feel like I am still getting stronger, but it is hard to tell when I don't have easy access to crags and climbing, nor people around who can push me. Last night though I was stoked to send a problem that I have been working on for a month and half. This going to be my regimine: boulder monday and thursdays hard, easy bouldering on the weekend one day. Road ride weds. Mountain bike hard one day on the weekend. I am also limiting my alcohol intake, normally I like a beer or two or three a night, I have decided to drink soda water instead, not as fun or tasty, but a lot less empty calories. I don't know where Rainy Day Women is, but I am sure it is not near me, instead there has been 2 lines that I have felt I can not do, so I haven't tried them, so I am going to start working them, bummer part is I can't get there every weekend it is too far. We'll see what happen, the true tell tale will be when I get back to Seattle this Aug/Sept and see what this has done for my climbing on terrain that I am familar with. I am not sure what you mean by learning to pull hard, but I feel like that is what I am trying to work on, in my sessions lately I have been really focused on warm up first doing easy lap or two and streching. Then I have hard problems up that I know I can do to continue the warm up, doing 2-4 of them. Then my main session (1-1.5 hours) is working things that I can't even hold onto or stick, trying to really focus on holds and moves that I can't do, which can be frustrating especially after 2-3 sessions where I can't hold onto the hold or even move from it or even get my butt off the ground. Basically working on training on things that I can't do so that I can do them eventually. Maybe I will check out these books, but most of the time I have a hard time reading that type of stuff.

I don't really want to know how Wet-spot found out.

Shit Gary, not everything can be determined by some mathematical formula. Enjoyment of pictures and art and shit indeed has some sort of a non-formulaic subjective component to it. Yeah I am not sure if there could be a mathematical formula for my shit. Sometime it's soft other times hard, sometime small and sometime hugh, stinky and not stinky, the smells can really vary and same with the color and texture, I am not sure how someone would start to explain that mathematically. Usually I don't try to explain it, I just enjoy the relief.