sepultura

Lisa, the dog in the pictures, Luna is one fit pup! but actually there is so much snow at the cliff bands you are speaking about, that its really not that big of deal right now. It is one awesome snow pack.

Cascade River Road is clear to around the 18 mile mark, and somewhat further with a high clearance rig. It should not be to much longer tell you can drive to the gate at the Eldorado TH at around mile 20. Skis on and off for a while after that.

Trip: North Cascades - Sahale Date: 5/4/2011 Trip Report: As of the 4th you can get to within a mile of the Eldorado TH, maybe more depending on the clearance of your Rig. We ran into a nice guy from Sedro who gave us a little longer ride in the back of his big truck, he was checking out the road for his crew to come up later and start working to get it cleared. As we became aware later, they have a lot of work to do..... Guy from Sedro said it could be mid July before its open to the Cascade Pass TH. Great trip under clear blue skies. Its starting to feel like a spring snow pack, but not just yet! Decent skinning and no slides happening except off the steep walls of J-Berg, and even those quieted down when the wind cooled the temps. Nice views and snow on the Sahale Arm and up. Got to within a few feet of the summit of Sahale, should have brought boot crampons, or dug my way under the sugary unconsolidated snice blobs like a Patagonian badger. Oh well, been there before. The Run back down to Cascade Pass was Sweet! pretty sludgy after that. Thanks Laurie, Trent and Jeff for a great day. Around 10 hours RT. Gear Notes: Bring Colin Haley for the rime blob pitch Approach Notes: Big truck from Sedro useful

[i Here is a shot of Heinrich ripping before the board went down...bummer, great trip otherwise, thanks guys!

Great pictures and report, thanks for sharing. Its nice to see something different, and from AK.

Looks like fun guys. Great pictures Jason...Did Tim bring Scrambles along? I miss that pooch.....

rumor has it you guys got all bloody when the whole thing almost collapsed! You are definitely the best mixed climbers alive today!

Thanks Jason, what better place to honor Dallas, anyone who has ever climbed at Mt Erie has done so because of efforts put forth by Mr. Kloke. We owe him a small thanks for sure.

It is hard to find words to describe the loss that myself and so many people are feeling right now, I do not think these words exist. Dallas taught me so many things about life and about climbing. He was my mentor, together we shared over 100 summits together over the last 15 years. I did not have a clue about alpinism until I hooked up with Dallas. No one moved through the mountains like Dallas Kloke. He passed on his skills through example, there was no ego or spray with Dallas, he was what a climber should be. Never afraid to take the sharp end and get things done, these are skills that only a lifetime of pushing hard in the North Cascades can teach you. Dallas Kloke was the man. As devastated as I am at this loss I am also honored to have been with him on his last day in the mountains. My heart goes out to his family and all the great friends he leaves behind. Thanks to the compassion and the professionalism of the Whatcom County sheriffs department and the Whatcom and Skagit county SAR. The mountains will never be the same without you Dallas.

Looks like a great trip! Thanks for sharing, I am going to put this trip near the top of my to do list.

Hey Steph, thanks for taking all the great pictures and indulging Trent and I on our quest to climb the most unsavory of the 54 11,000ers in the Canadian Rockies. You certainly our a superb choss downclimber. I found it interesting that we were only the second team to climb Hungabee this season(according to the summit registry). A true testament to its repulsive nature considering it is the highest peak in the Lake O'Hara area. Yes!

Nice work guys! Don't worry that bolts fine....

Way to get on it Dudes! see ya later this summer when I get this fish caught

Lost my Black Diamond skins off of the top of my pack while booting down the Eldorado trail. They are in a orange bag and they have "snow wolf" written on the bag with permanent marker.

Great job guys! I knew it was only a matter of time before somebody knocked this off, of course I was hoping it was going to be me after one attempt in summer with Dallas Kloke and Trent and another last May with A2THK. We figured it would probably only be possible as a winter or early spring climb. Last May we had a look at your gully and wondered if it would go, it looked pretty rotten then. As Trent mentioned, we made it to top of the notch between Lincoln and Assassin, we were calling that glacier the Hidden Dragon due to all the fire it was spitting out both times I was in there. Great pictures and a major Cascades coup, you guys makes us proud.

Yeah thats where I get my info as well, plus public television out of Anchorage does a great maritime forecast that shows the systems coming in. When we went to Unimak Island we were actually able to get forecast out of Cold Bay with a VHF radio, so I would think that you could also get the VHF repeater forecast out of Dutch well into the interior of Unalaska.

Most likely these names for these peaks are not "official", I believe the nautical charts refer to Pyramid Peak and Ballyhoo and possibly Newhall. I do not have the USGS chart with me on the boat at this time. Basically all the low peaks in close range of town have been skied and scrambled. Jeff at www.aleutianadventure.com would be happy to answer your questions about the Shalers, a couple of summers ago he and some buddies did a trip through the Shalers and bagged a few peaks. He could also look up some of the elevations you are requesting, I left my USGS at home unfortunatley. One of these days I am going to have to stay after the season and go do Makushin, its got a lot of glaciation for a 6000ft peak, looks great! What did you do in Dutch? I have been coming up here for 23 years, perhaps we crossed.

The most favorable months are probably April/May when the days are long and there is still enough snow down low to pull a sled if you are going deep into the interior. Jeff Hancock and I did a couple of trips to Unimak Is in this fashion in late April/May. If you are going to ski the big volcanos you could go during the summer and possibly launch from a boat or charter plane(big $ in this area). Alaska: A Climbing Guide by Wood/Coombs has a chapter on South West AK. Kenai Float Planes out of Nelson Lagoon runs private charters in the area. And my Buddy Jeff Hancock out of Dutch Harbor provides support/logistics and guiding-aleutianadventure.com, his website also has some more pictures. Aleutian weather is always full of surprises. I am happy to answer any questions between fishing trips.

Most of the peaks here only have numbers on the USGS, a few of the local named peaks that have provided lots of great skiing are Newhall, Wood, Ravensnest and Ski bowl north&south. Pyramid Peak is great mixed climb right outside town by its West flank. I have never done anything here other than day trips, so I have been limited by how far I can travel. The Schaler Range south of here looks awesome as does Makushin Volcano which I know has been skied a couple of times in recent years.

Trip: Unalaska Island, Alaska - Date: 3/1/2010 Trip Report: This could possibly be the first trip report from the Aleutian Islands. First of all it is extremely expensive to get out here and the weather is unpredictable and mostly horrible. Think Tierra del Fuego of the North. Most folks come up here to work and that consumes the better part of there time. Still there are a few of us fisherman who get out when ever we can, to ski or climb when conditions and work schedule allows. A handful of the local residents also get out for some fun whenever the weather gods are feeling generous. Sea level on Unalaska Island is like stepping off the boat in the Cascades and being at 7000 feet. The only poor wind blown trees that reside here were planted, the rest is all scrub, heather and tundra. It is very stark and beautiful. It can dump several feet of powder in a few hours and turn to rime ice just as quick, what you were skiing on one day you are often frontpointing the next, it changes that quick. Here are few pictures from This Great Land, could be the next Valdez. Or not. Gear Notes: GoreTex or rubber Approach Notes: Boat or plane, then head up.

Trip: Wapta Icefield - Date: 1/2/2010 Trip Report: Here are some pictures of my latest trip to the Wapta Icefields in BC and AB. As usual it was a great experience with typical winter weather in the Rockies. Although we got weathered off of Mt. Balfour, we summitted Mt. Olive and Mt. Baker (that’s the other Mt. Baker) in two separate trips. At some point I am going to have to do a full Wapta traverse and get all the peaks I have not picked away at, maybe this spring. Thanks to my great friends and climbing partners, Demitri G, Carlos B, and Michelle G for the stellar trips and hosting me again in Canmore. And thanks to Gail for a great day on Coire Dubh Inte’grale on Loder Peak in Exshaw. And thanks to the ACC for the privilege of staying in The Bow, Peyto, and Balfour huts. Its good thing we do not have huts in the Cascades, just think what a zoo Boston Basin would be. Peyto hut Carlos(the Master) storm brewing on Mt. Baker high on Baker coming down St. Nicholas St. Nic/Olive col Looking down Mt. Olive Demitri and -35C Mt Balfour on a good day Gail on Loder Peak

Its certainly possible that it has been climbed, there is alot of ice lines in that drainage. We based our FA simply on the fact that there was no rap slings in the logical spots, and I have heard no one else spraying about it over the years.

Trip: Del Campo - FA: Brawndo Date: 12/14/2009 Trip Report: On Dec. 14 A2THEK and I climbed a 2 pitch ice line on the lower N face of Del Campo peak. Unfortunately the fresh dump of snow on Sun. night stopped our progress up the rest of the face. It was still a worthy endeavor with a fairly short approach. We spied the line last week from Morningstar peak and made plans to come back and have a go. With the forecast calling for more typical Cascades weather we figured it was either Mon. or not at all for awhile. The approach was straight forward. Park at the Sunshine Mine trailhead, follow the trail to the major drainage that leads to the valley between Lewis and Morningstar. From here head straight up the drainage instead of following the trail up the avalanche slopes that head toward Headlee pass. Follow this to where the terrain steepens directly below Del Campo’s NF. The climb itself consisted of 2 full pitches. One being a thin mixed lead to an ice belay right below the upper tier. The second pitch was a full 55 meters of solid blue ice. We rated the climb 3+ R due to thin conditions of the lower pitch, although short screws proved useful here. Two double rope rappels from trees brought us back to the start of the climb. We decided to name the climb Brawndo in honor of the “Thirst Mutilator”