kurthicks

drive to Seattle and try a bunch of boots on. It's the only way that you'll get a fit that you're satisfied with. Depending on the climbing that you're doing (and since you specify 'high altitude'), you should really look at modern, synthetic double boots (baruntse, spantik, and the like) or those with an integrated overboot (kayland 8001, Sportiva Olympus Mons, Millet Everest, etc).

Trad: BD nylon slings (they last longer, are cheaper, and have lower impact force) with Trango lightwire carabiners for the most part Ice: Screamers with Camp Photon biners. a few dyneema slings for extending placements or to go on pins or rock gear. sport: Petzl dogbones with BD keylock biners. Alpine: dyneema (light is right in the alpine) with wiregates (neutrino,oz,photon,etc).

how steep John? if I were to pitch the whole route, how many would it be?

I just got back from an expedition and have been suffering from a burning pain under and below my right shoulder blade since I got back (about 3 weeks). It feels like a sunburn and is also somewhat achy, but there is no rash or surface discoloration. It doesn't hurt when massaged, but is really sensitive to a light touch and clothes moving around on it. I'm thinking it's an overuse injury (too heavy a pack for too long?) or maybe a pinched nerve. Anyone else ever get this? What should I do about it?

what about the north side?

any photos of Colfax?

edit: ride found!

or lobster claws.

i have no idea what you're even talking about.

You should also check out the Wallowas. Worth every second of the drive time.

partner just bailed. I'm in Seattle (Phinney) and car-less this week. will lead and have gear. email me kurthicksATgmail.com

agreed, it's not. but are they pulling the same shenanigans on Ingalls Peak or the Easton Glacier on Baker?

If the group is larger than 12 they should get popped by the USFS for violating the Wilderness Act.

a party size of 12 is the legal limit in most wilderness, regardless of one's affiliation with a club or organization. perhaps a better question is if these pay-for-instruction groups have commercial operating permits for public lands?

those overboots are notorious for crampons coming off of them. be extra cautious when attaching your 'pons if they are a lever/bail style. Full strap models seem to work better with them. 40 Below overboots are way better.

just got off the hill for my fifth time. here's what I used in this cold season: head: buff, wool hat, OR ninjaclava, Julbo explorers, goggles hands: OR gripper glove, BD Guide Glove, Marmot Expedition Mitten, handwarmers torso: Smartwool baselayer, First ascent windshirt, REI primaloft jacket, TNF softshell, MH absolute zero jacket legs: Patagonia baselayer, MH expedition weight tight, Patagonia simple guide pant, Marmot rain pants, MH compressor pant feet: Smartwool mountaineer socks, Sportiva Spantiks, 40 Below K2 overboots I wore everything simultaneously at one point (except the gloves), so make sure your layering system works well together. it is a system after all.

I heard some about the mechanism of failure with these. Apparently they are breaking when the load shifts out towards the gate at around 10-12kN. The plan is to beef up the gate/notch interface and re-start production as soon as possible.

ah, why did you have to change the title? it was funnier that way.

yea, I'd buy one Dane.

I want!

it's a little old. kind of retro-looking... ya know, vintage?

nice photo mikey!

and the harnesses? cost? lightweight!

snow on the top of the wall and likely on the descent. from the road it looks dry.

or use a bollard.