kurthicks

That's the first one on my list actually.

Hey all, Many rock, alpine, and ice routes in Washington currently have bolts that need to be replaced. These bolts include spinners, 1/4"ers, buttonheads, Leeper hangers, corroded bolts, and the general funkiness. I'll be doing some replacement work this fall on routes that I know need some work--these will be replaced by 5 piece stainless Powers bolts with stainless Fixe hangers--and I could use your eyes to locate other ticking time bombs so they can be fixed. So, post up routes, anchors, and/or specific bolts that you know that need to be replaced with modern hardware. Note: just because an anchor/bolt is listed for replacement, it doesn't mean that it will necessarily happen any time soon, or at all. Cheers, Kurt

Great work guys. I can't wait for the slideshow!

take the waist belt off and all harnesses work (or clip the belt around/behind the pack).

Here's what I've got in my current Sportiva quiver Darin: Muiras 41.5 Mythos 41.5 Nepals 44.5 Boulder (approachies) 43.5 Spantiks 44.5

I've used all of those too. My current preference for alpine rock is the Camp AIR CR harness. 7.8 oz, 4 gear loops and comfy.

sounds like you went down the SW couloir. bummer. I bet if you went back, they'd still be there since hardly anyone goes down it when not snow covered.

it's because Boston Basin is zoned as "Trail-less" officially (perhaps the cross country zoning, I can't remember which is the official nomenclature). The NPS doesn't do maintenance, nor is volunteer maintenance allowed (though it seems to happen). That said, they do repair/restoration work if it gets too bad (same for the Eldorado area).

I gotta say that I agree with everything that's being said on here. 4 out of 6 spots for guide services seems to be a bit much (full disclosure: I work for a major PNW guide service). I would support having 2 under a reservation system (which, btw, is standard on NPS managed lands from what I know), and the remainder are first come, first served. The zones are too big. Bivying at the notch of the West Ridge of Forbidden is simply not the same as camping in Boston Basin. Perhaps they should cap the group size to 6, but allow more permits. Or, as suggested above, have a maximum number of folks instead of a max number of groups. I'm sure it's easier for the Park to manage 6 groups (issuing and checking permits) than it would be to issue and check permits for more small groups. Not to mention that if they went to a non-group permit system, it could lead to increased resource damage due to having more groups camping in fragile alpine terrain.

there's a better way to do it. I'll post photos later.

If the climb is difficult for the followers: I drag two Single ropes up while leading, clipping both into each piece. only belay the leader on one rope. Belay both followers up with an auto-blocking device. If the climbing is relatively easy for the second and third climbers, I do this: Take one rope. Leader ties into one end. Second climber clips into a bight (2 lockers) about 20' from the other end of the rope, third climber ties into the end. belay the rope up, having the middle climber clip past each piece if on traversing terrain (otherwise they can clean the gear since there is no pendulum potential).

I'll cross post this because it's relevant: Agreed that the permit system is frustrating, but it has done an excellent job to protect the resource. the group size of 12 is not for "guided tours," but is the legal maximum group size (regardless of chosen activity) as laid out in the 1964 Wilderness Act--the management directive for public lands including Boston Basin and many (though not all) of the popular backcountry climbing areas across the nation. Furthermore, guides are not the problem as you suggest. Guides facilitate an experience for the public. You are a member of the public, so is a paying guest of a guide.

Looks like a fun trip. Agreed that the permit system is frustrating. the group size of 12 is not for "guided tours," but is the legal maximum group size (regardless of chosen activity) as laid out in the 1964 Wilderness Act--the management directive for public lands including Boston Basin and many (though not all) of the popular backcountry climbing areas across the nation.

I'm totally with you Chris. I understand rock routes, but I especially don't understand the desire to walk up snow or glacier routes in the heat of the day.

looks like someone robbed a gear store on that one. crazy

Or you could go up Sharkfin on day 1, bivy at the top of the Quien Sabe Glacier that night (might be in Boston Basin permit zone though), then carry over Sahale and come down Sahale Arm to Cascade Pass. you can get permits the day before, so if you've got time to drive to Marblemount beforehand that can really help. The snow gully on Sharkfin is a bit funky now getting off the glacier. expect slabby rock climbing that is running with water. we went to the left of the perched snow block a couple days ago. It's only cruxy for about 100' before more-or-less continuous snow leads to the base of the route.

yeah, thousands of years ago.

incredible photos Jason! Looks like a fun place to explore.

Water -- can you sit up in it? what about hanging a stove from the apex of the tent?

Get the Cilo 60L. awesome pack! take out the frame and it's 3 lbs, 1 oz with the lid for day routes. Take off the lid and you're down to 2lbs, 12 oz.

I might be going up there next week. I'll keep it in mind amigo. bummer!

It's a black Marmot DriClimb windshirt that is my client's. I forgot what was in the pocket. I'm sure we (3 of us) passed you on your way in last Friday. Thanks for picking it up! Shoot me a PM or email kurthicksATgmailDOTcom

Good suggestion Rad. You can haul packs on the two 5.9 pitches easily as the pitches are both less than 30m and straight up. Tie into the middle, clip one rope to the gear, trail the other without clipping, then pull up the bivy gear to the belay before the follower climbs.

For Stuart - I'd suggest coming in from Ingalls Lake and bivying in the basin somewhere on the north side of Longs Pass in Ingalls Creek (there are bivys where the Longs trail crosses the creek if i remember correctly) on day 1. Start day 2 early...hike up and around Goat Pass in the early AM, cross the glacier, send the North Ridge, descend the Cascadian back to your camp. hike out day 3. Drive to Leavenworth that night. For Dtail - Have morning coffee in Ltown, then hike into to Colchuck Lake in the evening. Get up on day 5 and send Serpentine, then hike out...or do it in a day, if you can't get a bivy permit for the Colchuck Zone. You don't need to haul bivy gear up either route with this plan, though it does add a little driving and a little more hiking.

I changed my wording to make it more clear as to what was going on in the picture. It's not in autoblocking mode...it's being used to substitute for a prussik minding pulley, to prevent the Prussik hitch from pulling through the carabiner...which is what the original poster was asking about.