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bunglehead

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Everything posted by bunglehead

  1. Well, ok, that's clearer now, and if we're gonna talk about parasites, why hasn't anybody mentioned Spielberg? I hope that POS slides under a garbage truck and tastes his own blood.
  2. Mmmm....Snaffle chalking. I tried to get some friends of mine to go squirrel fishing, they wouldn't bite. Ha! I made a funny!
  3. I hope they start making coated in rubber
  4. I would think if you wore those ridiculous thingys crack climbing, they'd peel off in a second. Pffffft! Finger rubber.
  5. Don't give those Mickey Mouse motherfuckers any ideas ... On a slightly unrelated note Walt Disney hired the former head of the Nazi rocket program to design the tomorrow land ride, or whatever it's called. But still, skiing down Everest, damn we just can't leave that mountain alone. Climbers have left so much shit on that peak it's disgusting.
  6. My day JUST STARTED and it SUCKS ALREADY.
  7. Hand cams: Arm bars: Leavittation: OUCH! But it'll work when nothing else will. Still, ouchies.
  8. I've got a pair of MEC Schoeller pants for crack climbs, and they're fucking awesome. Warm when it's cool, cool when it's warm, and my legs stay less scraped up. The pockets are really deep though...
  9. At the current exchange rate, that's $1124.00 USD a day. But still, that seems pretty damn cheap.
  10. A LOT. I don't buy farm raised salmon. Or Shrimp. But since you asked for a guess, and I'm assuming you know the asnwer, I'm guessing around 50%? I know at the local genero-mart, all of it is. There is a store in town here that sells wild Salmon, and the color difference between it and the farm shite is very easy to spot.
  11. FUCK farm raised Salmon. We're well on our way to destroying the ecosystem. well, at least it will be interesting for Anthropologists and Geologists in the future to study the only human caused great extinction.
  12. Ya know, I tried to lie about everything, but apparently, they have the B-day field set up so you can't enter anything before 1914 or after this year. Guesss they think no 90 year olds read the paper. Oregon Live. SUCKS.
  13. When do they die down? I remember doing some mt biking up that way in August a few years back, and there were too many for my taste. Planning on a little backpacking trip, and I hate those little bloodsucking bastards.
  14. Knee high? That reminds me of this "boulder problem" in town in this park. The boulder is about 4 feet around and 2 feet high. "Watch me, dude" And there's also this basalt looking rock sculpture thing that's fun to climb drunk in the middle of the night by the skate bowl. But you gotta be pretty drunk to make it fun.
  15. This whole bolting argument is sad. The only end result out of all of these silly bolt chopping wars is the rock. It SUCKS ASS to see chopped bolts. I agree with all of you guys about careful placement thought out beforehand. Anybody else read that article in the new issue of Climbing about that new park in Idaho? Although it might seem like the guy's a little autocratic, his explanations of why he does what he does for me is hard to argue. I personally would love it if we could come together as a unified group and have a local code of ethics that we all agree to honor. personally, I will probably never bolt a climb, (I love to plug gear!) but I can't bitch too much about it because I've sporto'd PLEN-TAY. I still agree though, that chopping wars suck. Anybody else besides me old enough to remember when climbing used to be the domain of loners and outcasts? I don't know, for me, not even that long ago, it used to be different. I know Smith gets UNGODLY traffic, but even a few years back it used to be a friendly place. Locals yaking it up at the base of their fav's, people watching each others kids, dogs, husbands, wives, just chilling. But it seems that sometimes lately when I go out, people aren't as friendly as they were. There's all this ego shit, and people don't chat as much as they used to. Anybody else experience this? Anyhoo, I'm rambling. I just hate chopping wars, and the divisiveness that exists in our community only hurts us in the end. Land managers see one joe climber up a slab one day bolting, and three weeks later, he sees two more people up there pulling the bolts. I'd just like to see it different, that's all. No bad bolt placements. No more squeeze jobs. And when did toproping fall into such ill repute as an acceptable form of practice? Some areas should ONLY be toproped in my opinion. It would be nice to go to Flag, or the Callahans, Or Smitty, and look up at a bolt job, and feel good about it. Ahh, I'm old. Don't listen to me. I just hate bolt wars. They suck. Oh yeah, I almost forgot, isn't a good drill kinda spendy? Couldn't one buy a whole set of SLCDs for the price of one of those things? I'd rather get a set of cams than a drill, but I'm old and kinda fucked in the head.
  16. Me too. And tricams. And stacked stoppers in weird configurations (if desperate). TRICAMS: Those things are little miracles. They will work when nothing else will.
  17. bunglehead

    First leads

    Or you can miss the step right and run it out 509 feet to the anchor... and rip off a big hold near the top and teeter back and forth on the brink of falling off figuring out how different tuff is from granite That's good. 509 feet! Hey Dru, if you're popping holds at Smith and running pitches out, you're getting the Full Value Locals Package. Tuff. LOVE IT! You guys in Washy and Canada are so spoiled with all yer Granite.
  18. bunglehead

    First leads

    Hey, Dancer (or is it Jete?) is good. The one where you have to step right off the ramp and onto the face above the third bolt, which makes it feel airier than it is. That's good too.
  19. Ooh I get PLENTY o' Basalt here in Oregon. But I like it, as long as it's bone dry. Or wet and filled with mud, both are frictiony (?? is this a word?). Yeah, you lucky bastards up there have Acres of Granite don't you? Thanks for the tips!
  20. Any of you Washington cats care to to share some beta on this area? Easty of Vantage? Size? Peeps density? What's this shizzle with this place? Worth a Washy road trip to hit Vantage, Feathers, other?? Thanks!
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