glassgowkiss

Ha,ha, my partner did the same on Murchinson. We were half way down the road when he realized what he did. We had to go back to Calgary, borrow some tools, then drive super early not to get them scooped. After that I have a habit of just clipping them to my ice clippers, so I don't forget them or drop them.

Like what? let's talk about no-bid contracts, let's talk about financial bailout and subsequent 20% of the money going to bonuses of CEO's, who ruined these companies in the first place. your head is so deep up your own ass discussing anything in rational manner is a complete waste of my time. now fuck off *ping!* and find your own soap box frigging douche nozzle.

bunch of freeloaders!

funny you mention this. last week in the NYT interview Madoff stated that the main reason he is serving jail time is because he was defrauding rich people instead of general population, like the rest of banking and wall street executives.

because they know their errand boy fucked up and even might have to resign.

In his own words. Now how is it legal, that a public official talks with non media person about details going on in legislature. How is it ethical? [video:youtube]

friggin lier

I can see paying minimum wage for extras in town, but this is sort of industry ridiculous. Bring all your own gear/cloths, drive your car to the location and get paid minimum wage? The typical day rate for extras mid 90 was $100 bucks for location shots! Borders slave labor imo and honestly I hope nobody shows up

Yes you are correct. Initially it was a fund, now it is easily money piggy bank- Reagan started the raids and GB finished. He did it mostly by giving away the "tax refunds", which was not a tax surplus, but SS, which was finally on track. Same fuckers, who screwed the economy in the first place are trying to tell us that they know how to fix it. Idiocracy was not a futuristic film, it's happening now and lowest most common denominators- FW like rule.

Budget Balanced!

Not surprising

One more thing. I would like to see the list of people whom you interviewed. I wonder if among them were people like Berbeka or "Krasnal". I understand it would be hard to interview Kukuczka due to the fact he is dead, but Berbeka has two and a half peaks in winter (Rocky Summit) and Krasnal has 3. Besides Moro these 2 climbers are the biggest experts on winter climbing in high ranges. Like I stated in my earlier post- you can't retroactively apply rules and same measures from 2007 to the decades of the 80's. These rules were created at that time.

Dear Rodrigo, my name is Robert Rogoz. I am not some anonymous climber, just ask around. I started climbing in 1980 in Poland, so for several years I had personal and daily contacts with people like "Zyga" Heinrich, Gienek Chrobak, "Falco" Dasal or "Zwierz" Kurtyka. So as you see I have deep and personal knowledge of this group of climbers gained not from some magazines reading, but from slide shows they were presenting and personal contact. Your argument completely lacks historical perspective and understanding the the background. I think furthermore it is a nitpicking to it's finest. I think your use of word "REAL" is utterly arrogant. Let me elaborate on some of these points. First of all there was no "Winter Ascents" on 8000m peaks until February 17th 1980. The FWA was done on post monsoon season permit, as Nepalese Government was not willing to issue a "winter permit, but they extended the post monsoon season permit. As the matter of fact the biggest obstacle was Nepalese, Pakistani and Chinese bureaucracies. The only reason these expeditions take place now is because the trail has been broken by the climbers in the 80's, and now you actually can get a winter ascent permit. During that era Polish climbers did not have resources to the same degree as the climbers from the West. How many Westerners would pack a truck full of motorcycles, drive it across Europe and Asia, sell the bikes, so they would have enough money for the expedition? There is also another reason that these expeditions were starting during the post monsoon season. None of them used helicopters. All the supplies and every member had to get to the base camp on foot. So my point is that distinguishing between what is and what is not FWA based on when you start your expedition is just nitpicking at it's finest.

Jia placed added a couple of bolts a few seasons ago (on Closet Secrets), so it should not be such a big runout at the moment. The continuation of the Paterson-Smaridge is called Eagles Ears. Recently it's more like WI4, but when not iced up it's a solid M7/M7+.

I am not against the blogs themselves, but the issue is, when people are misrepresenting the facts. There is a difference between writing about your own experiences, and wondering into territory of presenting statistical and/or historical data (which in several cases has nothing to do with truth or accuracy). Like I stated, a lot of material was published in printed form and is not in electronic form at all. But a few email and phone calls can result in a bunch of accurate information, however looks like a lot of times people are just too lazy.

Unfortunately this has the spilling affect and such nonsense is entering something like explorerweb. Now I can see why TNF would try to hype this up, but this bullshit keeps cascading into the main stream outdoor media.

You should invest your savings into a cock enlargement surgery and marry an old rich woman, so she can support your habit.

This my point on stupid writing on blogs, web sites and such media, where there is a continuing downward spiral of almost toxic proportion inaccuracies. Subsequently they lead to a complete distortion of history. The problem is that climbing started way before internet, a lot of material is still in printed form and several aspiring websites don't even bother checking some basic historical facts and statistics. A classic example is a recent campaign of misinformation regarding winter ascents of 8000m peaks. TNF journal presents material, like climbing tallest peaks was invented by NF sponsored team and nobody else did anything before. As the matter of fact terms like "pioneering ascent" makes it to such websites as www.explorerweb.com. The truth is that recent first winter ascent is nothing really new. Statements like: ""Also, Italian Simone Moro is now the undisputed leader in winter, the only climber in history who has bagged three 8000ers completely in winter (all his expedition completely took place within calendar winter)," are a horrid and utter bullshit of people, who don't even bother checking some basic sources like AAJ, Mountain or Vertical. Lets see some real historical data: Mt Everest February 17 1980 Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy Manaslu January 12 1984 Maciej Berbeka and Ryszard Gajewski Dhaulagiri January 21 1985 Andrzej Czok and Jerzy Kukuczka Cho Oyo February 12 1985 Maciej Berbeka and Maciej Pawlikowski Kanchenjunga January 11 1986 Krzysztof Wielicki and Jerzy Kukuczka Annapurna February 3 1987 Artur Heizer and Jerzy Kukuczka Lhotse December 31 1988 Krzysztof Wielicki Now we had to wait till January 15 2005 for another ascent. This time it was Shisha Pangma by Piotr Morawski and Simone Moro Makalu February 9 2009 Denis Urbanko and Simone Moro With recent ascent of G2 that makes 10 summits out of 14 are already climbed in winter so far and 8 of them were climbed by Polish teams. I don't know where is the author of the statement about Simone Moro was getting his information?! There are 2 other climbers, who also managed three winter summits so far. He is most definitely in very exclusive company, but thus far he just managed to get to the level that 2 others represented already in the 1980's.

Kneisel makes a ski colled "Curvo" in 1m and 1.2m. I use them with Fritchi bindings, as they accept climbing boots. The main thin is you want heat molded (intuition or richle) liners in your plastics, so you can actually ski. I can ski up to about 45 degrees in them

I saw the prototypes around New Years. There were some structural/design issues to be sorted out- which BD is trying to address. They really reminded me of basically a Dart with interchangeable front point and no funky heel lever. Darts were a good crampon, but the heel lever was horrid. Anyway, I know BD will sort out the issue with the attachment of the front point and it might be the next crampon to buy. However I think their Sabertooth are the best all around crampon.

Funny how it goes. When in the 80's and 90's Polish climbers were bagging one 8000m peak after another, nobody noticed. Now it's a big hype! About a decade or two too late. Even more- in the Alpinist- one about Mt. Everest- FWA was just a footnote. Personally I think FWA are as much valid as FA, FA without oxygen or FA alpine style on these peaks. Heads off to Denis and Simone for the style- small team, no oxygen! For Simone Moro it's his third 8000 summit in winter.

Congratulations to the team and wishing them safe descent and safe return. Of course writers from TNF had to make another mistake. This is not the first summit reached in Karakoram in winter. In 1988 Berbeka reached what is called Rocky Summit- sub peak of Broad Peak. In swirling clouds and bad weather he was convinced he was reaching the Main summit of Broad Peak, but after further analysis the conclusion was reached that he climbed the "Rocky Peak".

Fairyfelcher, do you even know how to read the map.? i have my doubts, since you can't even follow a simple conversation. but what can you expect from dumb republifuck douche nozzle?

well it's MA00013399- look it up. And unlike you I actually went to school and geography was one of the subjects I had for 4 years.

Noah, the map shows one thing, however the text attached to the map yet again mentions Broad Peak in the mix. If you look at the map, the ridge line turns South from G4 to G5 and to the North there is Falchan La, which is almost 1500 lower then Broad Peak and G2.